Riding the bevel

[Jim Hipp]

A newbie here. I have read this statement in various posting but don't know what it means.

Would someone explain please?

[Josh Bowman]

Your tool will have a flute or a flat place on one side and then a bevel that you grind to sharpen. That bevel is ideally what you "ride". This gives you a stable foundation for the cutting edge. You start your cut with the back of the bevel in contact with the wood then slowly lift the handle until the edge begins cutting the wood. That place should be where the bevel is gently rubbing and the cutting edge if cutting.

[Tom Sherman]

Jim riding the bevel is simply this, after you have anchored your tool on the tool rest, you allow the bevel only to rubb the wood. Then you turn the tool only until you begin to get shavings, at which point you are slicing the wood.

[Dan Hintz]

Try this article, Jim... that should help you get a feel for proper positioning:
https://www.lylejamieson.com/instruction-classes/documents/AAWArticle-FearFactor-Winter06.pdf

[Reed Gray]

This is best explained and understood with a hands on session. The AAW has a club listing, and try to find the nearest one. I think every club has a mentor listing as well, and the demonstrations are a huge learning experience. When cutting, there are bevel rubbing cuts and non bevel rubbing cuts. Scrapers are generally used with no bevel contact. Gouges are generally used with a bevel rub. Skews are almost always used with a bevel rub. A lot depends on the tool, and what type of cut you are using. Mostly, the bevel rub gives you a leverage and contact point very close to the cutting edge for better tool control.

"The bevel should rub the wood, but the wood should not know it." I have no idea who said that one, but it goes along with "Hold the sword (tool) as you would a bird. Too tight and you kill it. Too loose and it flies away." It takes a while to get the idea that if you are forcing things, and have a white knuckle grip, you are working way too hard.

I have several You Tube clips up. Just type in robo hippy

robo hippy

[Dwight Rutherford]

I believe Reed's suggestion about hands on is the best. As a newbie years ago I couldn't visualize what "riding", " rubbing" the bevel meant. Five minutes with a mentor was all it took. Find a club at www.woodturner.org.

[John Thorson]

It is easiest to see Tom's simple explanation in action when looking at someone turn a bead. The tool is resting at the top of the bead and not cutting and as they rotate the tool to the right or left it begins to cut and they 'ride the bevel' down the slope improving the bead's shape with each cut.

In Bonnie Klein's ABC's of Woodturning this same approach is described and her presentation makes it clear how the anchoring of the tool to the tool rest and the body then controlling the cut with support of the bevel makes a push cut so effective. http://www.bonnieklein.com/Library/ABCBasics.pdf

What folks don't tell you often is that it is only a very small part of the bevel right behind the cutting edge that is actually rubbing. Most folks get confused by assuming they are being told to rub the entire ground surface of the bevel... which is impossible.

[Guy Belleman]

Jim,
Lots of good advice, but please get a hands-on session. Learning good technique will make turning experiences much more fun. I would highly recommend taking the next turning class at the Woodcraft store next to you on June 7th. Here is their site. Lots of other class dates available too. http://www.woodcraft.com/stores/storeclasses.aspx?id=511&page=classes
G

[Dennis Nagle]

here you go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Naz15qfiTNo

[Jim Hipp]

Thanks to all for the replies and for the fact that I can understand them.

I hope to get in some practice this week.