Colt, Boromax, or Freud Carbide Forstner bit

[Brian Kent]

I have been making a lot of chalices, which require end grain drilling with a large forstner. I use a smaller bit first, then use a 2-1/8" CMT Forstner. Even so I have to sharpen every time with hardwood endgrain.

Do you all have an opinion for a 2" forstner that holds an edge and cuts smoothly and quickly.

Freud Carbide - $36 with shipping

Bormax (FAMAG) - $65 with shipping

Colt Maxicut - $35 with shipping

Thanks. I have read past threads and wonder how a carbide bit fits in and how you like the Colts vs FAMAG now that you have tried them.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Brian,
I understand your desire to remove a large amount of wood in a short time but asking either of those bit to stay sharp cutting end grain is a lot. I own both Bormax and Colt bits. They are both excellent. I use my colt bitd on the lathe and the Bormax on the drill press. Given the same number of uses on the same wood the Colt will last through more sharpenings but will still require sharpening. I'm not sure why you don't just drill a small hole to indicate your desired depth then hollow out your chalices with one of the lathe tools designed for that purpose. A ring tool or a Monroe style tool will make quick work of end grain hollowing. You will still need to sharpen but the task is easier on a turning tool than a Forstner bit.
faust

[Bob Bergstrom]

I don't have Freuds carbides that big, but my 1" has lasted over 200 holes and still cuts well. I do agree with Faust that there are many other turning tool options. I have a 5/8" Thompson spindle gouge with the wings ground back about 1 3/4" it will clean the inside of a box pretty quick using pull cuts. Makes an awesome shear cutter on the outside of bowls and boxes also.

[John Beaver]

My preference is for the Colt bits. They're all good, but I think the Colt's clear the chips the best, and cut very well.

[Robert Henrickson]

I'm not sure why you don't just drill a small hole to indicate your desired depth then hollow out your chalices with one of the lathe tools designed for that purpose. A ring tool or a Monroe style tool will make quick work of end grain hollowing. You will still need to sharpen but the task is easier on a turning tool than a Forstner bit.
faust

I would agree. I simply drill a small starter/depth hole and then hollow with either a bowl gouge with sweptback grind or a Hunter tool (my trusty #5). With a goblet/chalice, the hollowing will go very quickly whichever tool you use.

[Reed Gray]

I guess a forstner bit would be good if you need an exact diameter hole. Other than that, I drill with a twist bit, then use hollowing tools. This is much faster than a forstner bit. I do have a saw shop that can sharpen forstner bits, and they come back better than they were straight out of the box.

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

OK, so I guess the issue is my shortage of training on tool use inside the bowl of the chalice or goblet. I am doing something wrong - too many catches unless I am using scrapers. I have not figured this out on my own, so I need either some hands on training or a bunch of good videos and explanations.

[Reed Gray]

I have tried gouges for trimming up the insides of hollow forms and boxes, and the hollowing tools just seem to work better for me.

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

I have been using small scrapers, either flat or sheer cut, above center line, and I am not getting catches. When I try to remove much on the inside of a goblet, it still risks throwing the blank off of the jaws. So I guess I could try my big hollowing stick on the insides of goblets to take of less at a time and ease up the leverage.

Reed (or others) what hollowing tools would you use on the inside of a goblet to take off light cuts?

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

I do have a saw shop that can sharpen forstner bits, and they come back better than they were straight out of the box.
Robo, That would make a great You Tube video.
faust

[Doug Ladendorf]

Brian, are you a member of a local AAW turning club? I'm sure someone would be happy look at what you are doing and provide some mentoring with this.

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

I use a Colt Maxi Cut bit frequently drilling end grain on greed wood. They seem to stay sharp longer & you can run them faster than any other forstner bit I have ever used. That said I only drill about a inch to a inch and a half then back them out to clear chips. You'll get any bit stuck if you try to drill very far in green wood with out backing them out frequently.
But like others have said try to find some one to mentor you as to proper tool use & control & you'll be far ahead of the game.

[robert baccus]

Brian, I do a lot of pilot holes in vases to 10-20" with a HF 2" forstner bit of dubious quality. I sharpen every second hole or so with a 6" diamond disc(very cheap on ebay) The flat side and thin shape allows sharpening a fostner bit like it was made for it. Any size diamond disc would work very well. On this tough job everything is going to need sharpening at some time.

[Syd Sellers]

Brian, just a question, how fast are you drilling? I found that in order to keep the smoke to a min. you need to go slow. Maybe 100 RPM or so is what I use and I drill a lot of Salt & Pepper sets 8 & 10" deep with really no problems...

Also, I have been looking for a supplier who can deliver a few metric sizes like 44, 46 & 48 MM. Who would you suggest??

[Brian Kent]

I have tried many different speeds. Generally a medium speed touch and release, emptying frequently. Any slower and it stalls the Delta Midi.

[Greg A Jones]

550 - 600 seems to be the happy medium for me. Much slower and it's prone to seize; much faster and smoke starts. Have two maxi-cuts on the way for pepper mill boring and am mucho excited to see the results vs BB Chain store forstners.
As far as chalice work, I absolutely love my Berger hollowing tool. As previously stated, a pilot hole and light, easy strokes that allow me to control the thickness and curve as I work.

[Brian Kent]

Well I am very grateful for Joe Fleming, one of the mentors for San Diego Wood Turners, who will work with me on Monday. He does some really beautiful work. He says he has an assortment of hollowing tools, so I should be able to find something appropriate for my current work with chalices.

Even though this round I am being moved from forstners to other tools, I asked this kind of question a while back and forstners were the recommended way to go at that stage.