Can I Use a Solid Core Door as a Router Table

[Alan Gan]

I pulled a brand new solid core door out of the dumpster awhile back. Someone had cut it into 2 pieces, not really in half so I have a good sized part. I would like to use it for a Router Table if possible.

Where it has been cut it looks like there is a 1/2" solid wood wrap around the entire outer edge. The interior of the door looks like Particle board and looks pretty dense.

Can I use a Dado blade and cut it for a Miter track?

Can I cut it to install a Router plate? I would need to able to Rabbit an edge for the plate to sit on. I have been looking at the Woodpecker Cast Aluminum Router Plate

Is it hard on blades, I do not want to ruin my good Dado Blades?

Overall would it work out? Thanks!

[Paul Incognito]

I've been using a router table made from a solid core door for years with no problems.
Paul

[lowell holmes]

I don't think it will hurt your tools, but it might hurt your back picking it up. :)

[ed vitanovec]

This should work fine as long as it is flat, should be able to put a dado in it for your miter track.

[Phil Thien]

Solid core doors will sag, they need to be supported in order to prevent this. So your stand needs to provide a non-sagging apron on which the door sits in order to keep it flat.

[Alan Gan]

Thank-You Guys! Looks like I have a new project, will post some Pic's on the progress.

[Alan Gan]

Another question.

I do quite a bit of searching before asking but seems I always run into an issue that a clear answer is not so clear.

What are your thoughts on finishing the top of the door.

Sanding very smooth, then...

1- using GF Arm-R-Seal Gloss, several coats.

2- Using Shellac either by itself or over the Gloss GF

3- Using a latex semi gloss paint then seal over with Shellac

I like the option of using paint to make the table and top stand out but not sure it would work. I have some pretty durable $70.00 a gallon Sherwin Williams paint.

What would provide the hardest surface that would last?

[Jerry Wright]

There are many colored opaque stains to make it whatever color. Then use 2-3 coats of GF Arm r Seal. Lightly sand/rub in between with P800 paper ( even use you orbital sander). You'll be amazed at how slick it will become.

[Alan Gan]

There are many colored opaque stains to make it whatever color. Then use 2-3 coats of GF Arm r Seal. Lightly sand/rub in between with P800 paper ( even use you orbital sander). You'll be amazed at how slick it will become.

Thanks Jerry. I do have a can of Stain named CornFlower that I bought at an estate sale, it is tinted Blue, I did not even know they made a colored stain. So I see what you mean.

Is the GF over Latex paint a bad idea, the color is so much deeper?

[Jerry Wright]

Thanks Jerry. I do have a can of Stain named CornFlower that I bought at an estate sale, it is tinted Blue, I did not even know they made a colored stain. So I see what you mean.

Is the GF over Latex paint a bad idea, the color is so much deeper?

The Arm r Seal will tend to impart a slightly yellowish cast to whatever it is applied to. I like this for natural woods. If you want bright colors, I would apply the GF Polyacrylic water based finish. It dries clear, stays clear, is very hard, and can be smoothed out with P800 paper also. Being an old oil based varnish guy, i am amazed at the GF Polyacrylic. It also dries in 1-2 hours, so the finishing schedule is quick.

[Wayne Jolly]

My choice would be HPL (aka Formica).

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