Question about router bit set

[Jay Jolliffe]

I have the Freud Entry & Interior door set #99-267. I have spent way more time that I want trying to set it up to do an interior door. I can get the profiles to match perfect but can't figure out the groove & tenon. I would think if profiles match the rest would. I get a 1/2'' groove, which is the smallest it will cut but the stub tenon end is only 3/8"....Tried setting it up so the tenon is 1/2'' but then the profiles are off. Any help on this would be appreciated.

[Myk Rian]

Did you watch the DVD that came with the set?

[Peter Quinn]

I don't know this set, but I do know doors. I took a good look at it, looks pretty fool proof. You are trying to set up for full tenons or stub tenons? Do you have all the original spacers as supplied installed? It looks like your stock must be milled to an exact number, probably 1.750" for entry doors in order to make long tenons as you will have to flip the rails over to mill from each side of the tenon, any error in stock thickness will be doubled in regard to tenon thickness versus the groove made in the sticking cut. I find it advantageous to mark an A face and run all parts face down on cabinet doors, on double sided entry doors the orientation is less critical but you should mark one face of each part and run them all in the same orientation. Beyond that I can't see much room for variation with a matched set of this type.

To set the height I would mill a 5/8" gauge block, set up the cope first as that is generally what you run first to avoid blow out. Assuming a 1/2" stub tenon, subtract form 1 3/4" gives 1 1/4", divide by 2 gives 5/8" molding profile. So the top of the bottom cutter should be set flush to the top of the 5/8" gauge block. I like to use a flat plastic rule or thin scrap of stock on top of the gauge block to feel when a cutter is just dragging so you know the height is correct, or you can run a sample and measure with calipers. Better to start a touch low and come up to your setting as you always want to take out any slop with an upward rise. Sorry if any of that is more basic than you need. Once a cope has been run I would break down or set up on a second table if you have one, set the sticking to the cope. Again, if using the cope set with just the stub tenon cutter and flipping stock thickness will be critical.


Took a closer look at the Freud site, looks like the carbide height is 1 7/8" so so you could mill the stock a little thick and wide belt to 1 3/4" if you have access to that, in any event you have to center the tenon on the stock what ever thickness it is which is easier measured with calipers than by sight with ruler.

[Jay Jolliffe]

To answer Myk's question is the little DVD that came with it won't play in my computer & we don't have a DVD player nor TV..Now where it says keep note when you change the configuration to do a 1 3/8" door where all the little shims go I guess you best do it. I didn't & in the directions that come with it they don't say. What I did do is call Frued & the guy was nice enough to e-mail me a diagram of how they go together. Also I made the mistake of switched the grooving cutters over so they were cutting a 1/2 grove instead of 3/8 groove...So now it works....Thanks for the help Peter as that will help me also in fine tuning it....