Flush Triming Edgebanding on Router Table

[George Bokros]

Can you use a flush trim bit in the router table to flush trim some edge banding (not the iron on type) on a shelf? I know I will have to run the shelf vertical. Would I need an offset fence to do this or just flush the fence to the bearing run the shelves?

Thanks

George.

[Prashun Patel]

If you do not use a high fence, or a thick edge band, then you will have a devil of a time keeping it righted.

Personally, I would use a hand router and use a jig (or gang multiple shelves together on edge) to make a wide enough platform so your router's not tippy canoe and tyler too.

[Ethan Melad]

i have used a bottom bearing bit rather than a fence to trim solid edging on 3/4 ply doors/drawer fronts. edging was about 1" wide to start, the widest/tallest door was somewhere around 23". works well for me, just take it slow to avoid tipping.

[Mark W Pugh]

I just used this technique and it worked great. Do a few practice trims first.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sB-POouy5mk

I also built the jig to hold my carcass panels (like in video), and it worked great!!

[Phil Thien]

I just used this technique and it worked great. Do a few practice trims first.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sB-POouy5mk

I also built the jig to hold my carcass panels (like in video), and it worked great!!

First, I believe the OP is asking about trimming real wood (thick) edging, not ironed-on thin veneer.

BUT, I finally got around to trying that method you posted after seeing the video a few times. It really didn't work that great. The blade wants to follow the grain of the veneer and tear it out.

I believe the stuff he is trimming in the video is plastic or vinyl, not real wood veneer.

[Matt Day]

I just trimmed about 100 LF of 1/2" thick edge banding on 3/4" ply. I tried using a RT with a tall fence and it sounds great but most plywood isn't completely flat I quickly realized.
I ended up using a flush trim bit in a trim router and it worked like a charm. It's pretty easy to balance a trim router on the edge of a piece of 3/4" ply.

[Don Huffer]

This system works so well. I've been trimming shelves and 8' long side panels for months with it. Easy to use can't mess up your wood. The cut leaves it ready for 220 sanding. No clamps required. Runs over dado slots. Which is a problem with a bit and bearing.

It took about two hours to put it together. Mines made from Corian.

[Mark W Pugh]

First, I believe the OP is asking about trimming real wood (thick) edging, not ironed-on thin veneer.

BUT, I finally got around to trying that method you posted after seeing the video a few times. It really didn't work that great. The blade wants to follow the grain of the veneer and tear it out.

I believe the stuff he is trimming in the video is plastic or vinyl, not real wood veneer.

Sorry about that. I had no problem once I figured out how to guide the blade.

[Alden Miller]

I used to do as you are suggesting, tall fence, bottom bearing flush trim bit. I have switched to a scraper plane and card scraper if needed. I found I can clean things up as quick or quicker than using the router.

-Alden

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I own a Festool Router. I also own

Angle Arm - 486052
Edging Plate - 486058

289466

I have done this a couple of times. The first time, it was to trim the hard wood edging on a router table that I built.

[John Nesmith]

I do it like this:


289476

[Mark Wooden]

I use a lipping planer now so I gave away my "one touch point" fence I made. I did this very quick sketch to show it; the only critical element is that the bit and fence be the same diameter/ thickness and radius. It doesn't matter if there's a slight cup or bow to the stock as it's only touching at one point. I drew in a flush cutting bearing bit, but any bit works; an upcutting spiral bit worked best for me.
289516

[Mark W Pugh]

Can you use a flush trim bit in the router table to flush trim some edge banding (not the iron on type) on a shelf? I know I will have to run the shelf vertical. Would I need an offset fence to do this or just flush the fence to the bearing run the shelves?

Thanks

George.

Explain "edge banding (not the iron on type)". Hardwood, glue on, etc. Just trying to learn other techniques myself.

Thanks

[Mark W Pugh]

I do it like this:


289476

This is a great technique! Don't ask how I tried to do it on the router and failed. This made the light bulb come on. Thanks!!

[George Bokros]

Explain "edge banding (not the iron on type)". Hardwood, glue on, etc. Just trying to learn other techniques myself.

Thanks

Yes gluing hardwood oak to the edge of oak ply.

[johnny means]

Plus 1 on Johns tall fence with the relief at the bottom. It's pretty much foolproof and works with any bit.

[Don Huffer]

Plus 1 on Johns tall fence with the relief at the bottom. It's pretty much foolproof and works with any bit.

How do you run an 8' panel on that?

Don

[Rick Fisher]

I have the smaller Festool router system for trimming .. MKF 700 ... Works quite well ..

[Matt Day]

Plus 1 on Johns tall fence with the relief at the bottom. It's pretty much foolproof and works with any bit.

And as I said earlier, what if the plywood has a slight bend in it? The method you suggest works great on paper in an ideal world.

[Calvin Williams]

And as I said earlier, what if the plywood has a slight bend in it? The method you suggest works great on paper in an ideal world.

That is the method I use in my professional shop. A couple of feather boards will handle bowed plywood.

[Calvin Williams]

How do you run an 8' panel on that? Don

I use the same method and for long panels I just set up some in-feed and out-feed stands.

[Don Huffer]

I use the same method and for long panels I just set up some in-feed and out-feed stands.

I'm on a project where I have just broke down my 45th sheet of 3/4" walnut. Your method wouldn't have lasted a day. Many panels are 8' long and 2' wide.

But I'm going to archive your picture for smaller panels.

Don

[Don Huffer]

I'm very surprised no one as made a single comment on the method I posted. In another forum we actually worked out the details of the build. I tried all the other systems and none compare to the speed, accuracy, versatility and quality of this method. Not to mention it was cheap and very easy to build.

Anyone up for a challenge that leads to making a believer out of you?

Don

[Calvin Williams]

I'm on a project where I have just broke down my 45th sheet of 3/4" walnut. Your method wouldn't have lasted a day. Many panels are 8' long and 2' wide.

But I'm going to archive your picture for smaller panels.

Don

I would have to disagree with you there since that is the way I have been doing it for the last six years when I have a lot of panels to flush trim. But, I have used the set up you posted when dealing with large panels. My method can still be done on the router table even with large panels but I think your method is very good!!!

[Calvin Williams]

I'm very surprised no one as made a single comment on the method I posted. In another forum we actually worked out the details of the build. I tried all the other systems and none compare to the speed, accuracy, versatility and quality of this method. Not to mention it was cheap and very easy to build.

Anyone up for a challenge that leads to making a believer out of you?

Don

Sorry, I was in the middle of responding to your last post. I think your way is a very efficient way of flush trimming panels and if you are dealing with as many panels as you had mentioned it would probably be easier to move a router than 3/4" plywood.

[Don Huffer]

I would have to disagree with you there since that is the way I have been doing it for the last six years when I have a lot of panels to flush trim. But, I have used the set up you posted when dealing with large panels. My method can still be done on the router table even with large panels but I think your method is very good!!!

Just not with inside corners. Right?

Don

[Don Huffer]

Sorry, I was in the middle of responding to your last post. I think your way is a very efficient way of flush trimming panels and if you are dealing with as many panels as you had mentioned it would probably be easier to move a router than 3/4" plywood.

Have been building walk in closets for one house. His and hers closets two separate rooms 12 by 9. A pantry, their sons walk in closet. The guest room with two reach in closets and will end in the garage storage of what I'm not sure.

Don

[Calvin Williams]

Just not with inside corners. Right? Don

Correct!!!!!

[Calvin Williams]

Have been building walk in closets for one house. His and hers closets two separate rooms 12 by 9. A pantry, their sons walk in closet. The guest room with two reach in closets and will end in the garage storage of what I'm not sure. Don

Sounds like fun..... I think we get so use to using a certain set up we sometimes forget about different ways that might actually be better for the situation.

[Don Huffer]

Sounds like fun..... I think we get so use to using a certain set up we sometimes forget about different ways that might actually be better for the situation.

I couldn't be more bored with the job. I have basically used the same method for each closet. Just changed the dimensions. Every thing is stained too. But it's been a money maker.

Don

[Greg Hines, MD]

I don't do this very often, but did find an attachment for my router base that does a superb job with it:

http://www.woodpeck.com/mprouterbase.html

If you are looking for a good offset router base anyway, this is the one for you.

Doc

[Don Huffer]

I don't do this very often, but did find an attachment for my router base that does a superb job with it:

http://www.woodpeck.com/mprouterbase.html

If you are looking for a good offset router base anyway, this is the one for you.

Doc

Well that's a fine looking tool. What does it cost? Do you have one? It looks like it would do the same job as the shop built fixture I posted. Didn't see a guide to run on while trimming glued on edge banding. If it doesn't have one for that aspect it's useless.

Anyone that has tried to use a clamp guide like this one has found out the hard way it doesn't always hold its position. Very risky.

I thought the little kick stand for the router was funny.

I looked a little farther into the link and saw the guide setup for trimming the edge band. Looks well designed. I might try to incorporate that bearing into my base.

Don

[Greg Hines, MD]

I do have one, and I like it a lot. There are many handy jig attachments for it, as you saw, including the anti-tilt leg for use with narrow boards or panels where you might be tempted to have it sag. I have not yet made any round tables yet, but the circle-cutting jig is very intuitive.

My only real complaint with the system is with the Porter-Cable PC690 Plunge base that I use with it. I had to make my own thumbscrews for the 12-24 screws that lock the jig onto the holes that you use for an edge guide. I would love to find someone who could use some of them, as Amazon sells them in lots of 800 to 4000. And I need, lets liberally say, ten of them.

[John Nesmith]

And as I said earlier, what if the plywood has a slight bend in it? The method you suggest works great on paper in an ideal world.



As mentioned, use featherboards, or, do a small bit of clean up with a block plane.

[Rick Potter]

Don,

I have to admit, the first time I looked at your jig, I didn't understand how it worked. Going back and looking again it finally dawned on me that it uses a flat bottom bit, rather than a bearing bit. Right?


RP

Home of frequent senior moments.

[Ole Anderson]

I had a bunch of kitchen cabinet shelves to edge, some with hot melt banding, others with solid front edging, some 12" wide, others 24" wide. I used a flush trim bit (bearing on top when in a router table) and a tall fence held about 3/4" above the table to allow relief for the untrimmed banding. I thought it worked wonderfully. Also see post #33 on the Tips and Tricks thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196398-The-Tips-and-Tricks-Thread/page3

[George Bokros]

I had a bunch of kitchen cabinet shelves to edge, some with hot melt banding, others with solid front edging, some 12" wide, others 24" wide. I used a flush trim bit (bearing on top when in a router table) and a tall fence held about 3/4" above the table to allow relief for the untrimmed banding. I thought it worked wonderfully. Also see post #33 on the Tips and Tricks thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196398-The-Tips-and-Tricks-Thread/page3

This is the way to do it on the router table. I will do mine that way next time.

George

[Don Huffer]

I do have one, and I like it a lot. There are many handy jig attachments for it, as you saw, including the anti-tilt leg for use with narrow boards or panels where you might be tempted to have it sag. I have not yet made any round tables yet, but the circle-cutting jig is very intuitive.

My only real complaint with the system is with the Porter-Cable PC690 Plunge base that I use with it. I had to make my own thumbscrews for the 12-24 screws that lock the jig onto the holes that you use for an edge guide. I would love to find someone who could use some of them, as Amazon sells them in lots of 800 to 4000. And I need, lets liberally say, ten of them.

Well Greg with all due respect why on Gods green earth are you buying on Amazon? In 10 years I have never found anything with a better price there than EBay. I've tried. I can buy items like your 12-24 screws all day.

I'm not clear. Are you upset with Porter Cable or the router fixture?

Now that you have one. Don't you think you could have just made your own?

Don

[Don Huffer]

Don,

I have to admit, the first time I looked at your jig, I didn't understand how it worked. Going back and looking again it finally dawned on me that it uses a flat bottom bit, rather than a bearing bit. Right?

RP

Home of frequent senior moments.

Exactly. And what I didn't mention was that the cut is superior to a cut with the side of the bit. There is zero tear out and it sands with 220. So the router takes one pass and I leave it in place and finish sand then off to finish.

I've ran well over 300' and the bit hasn't shown any sign of Losing its edge. Haven't made any tipping errors either. I made it out of Corian and I'm not sure but I don't think Corian slides well on wood. I could be wrong. Does anyone have the answer to this? Could be just happening because it's walnut.

Thanks for your response. I was beginning to think this was a private club.

Don

[Don Huffer]

I had a bunch of kitchen cabinet shelves to edge, some with hot melt banding, others with solid front edging, some 12" wide, others 24" wide. I used a flush trim bit (bearing on top when in a router table) and a tall fence held about 3/4" above the table to allow relief for the untrimmed banding. I thought it worked wonderfully. Also see post #33 on the Tips and Tricks thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196398-The-Tips-and-Tricks-Thread/page3

Nice table. Can you run long 8' by 2' panels on it. That was my problem using the table setup.

Don

[Rick Potter]

OK, Don,

I'm convinced. I will soon be doing four walk in closets, melamine with oak trim. I will be building one like yours because there are a lot of large panels to do.

Rick P

[Greg Hines, MD]

Well Greg with all due respect why on Gods green earth are you buying on Amazon? In 10 years I have never found anything with a better price there than EBay. I've tried. I can buy items like your 12-24 screws all day.

I'm not clear. Are you upset with Porter Cable or the router fixture?

Now that you have one. Don't you think you could have just made your own?

Don

EBAY:0 results found for 12-24 thumbscrews
I have tried to find them in small quantities, but cannot seem to find them on Ebay, at any online retailer (HD/Lowes/McFeelys, etc).

That said, I really like this jig. One of these days, I will get a different router to use with it, but for now, it works great. I really do not have any complaints with it, outside of cost. Could you make your own? Sure. But I make plenty of jigs already, and when WoodPeckers had this one on sale a few years ago, I jumped on it. They do put it on sale at least twice a year, it seems, so keep an eye out for it.

The Micro-Adjuster is the key to it. You can dial in exactly where you want to plunge in, for mortises, dados, sliding dovetails, etc. That you could make. I just would not want to.

Doc

[Nelson Briles]

Don:

I couldn't help but notice the edge clamping arrangement in the background in the photos. Looks both clever and simple. Would you care to share what you're doing. Thank you, Nelson Briles.