Crosscut Sled Questions

[David Huston]

Going to be building a new crosscut sled for the new to me Grizzly 1023SL I just got. Just have a couple of questions. First I was thinking of building out of 1/2 inch Birch plywood, will probably triple up the back fence and double up the front fence. Would 4 inches be tall enough for the fence? I will be using the Incra Special Edition Miter slides and have a question about drilling the holes for them. Would you recommend a spade bit to get clean holes in the plywood? Also, the instructions state to drill 1/4 inch holes for the mounting blots and the counterbore with a 5/8 bit to flush the heads of the bolts. Again would a spade be the way to go or should i use a forstner bit. Is the forstner going to work with the 1/4 inch hole already drilled? Any advice would be great.

Thank you

[Bill Huber]

I never use a spade bit for anything I want a clean hole in.

The first thing is to drill the 5/8" hole with a Forstner bit and then do the 1/4", you will have a center for that 1/4" bit. So you just drill the 5/8" hole deep enough for the heads of the bolts and then drill the 1/4".

I think the plywood will be just fine, I used MDF on mine but then that was all I had. I did use hard wood for the fence front and back. I used 3/4" Oak glued up to 1 1/2" thick for both.

I don't know what plans you are using but be sure and put a thumb guard on the front fence.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi David, use the Forstner bit, drill the large hole first............Regards, Rod.

[Carter Forbes]

If its the incra slides I think your speaking of, I think there are extra smaller hole ls for setting up. I would start by installing one slide only. I'd definitely make the 5/8 holes before 1/4 inch holes to avoid walking. That being said, I might pilot those with an1/8" first or nail set since it will be somewhat blind with a forsner. Once you complete one rail, place it in the slots of TS, pull it back some and slip next rail in and set the rear (temporary) small screw. Then slide it forward and screw in the front. This ensures that they run pretty true to the slots even before you adjust track with flat head or hex. Pull it off, mark the larger holes and drill them.
I made my front (out feed) piece 4" all the way across an laminated it up to 2.25" thick. I do wish it was lighter though.
For the rear, I went 1.5" tall left and right with the center 4" tall And 8" wide - curving down to the 1.5".
lets me see my marks while keeping my thumb and fingers out of the way. Adding a round over makes it very comfy too

[Randy Bonella]

I recently made my first 2 sleds one for straight cuts and another for 45 deg miter cuts following this gentleman's Youtube video. Figured after making the first the 2nd would be easier and super fast and it was. I learned a lot! Main thing is to keep the vertical all the same thickness, except for the blade guard. Makes it easier to clamp stuff. 2nd don't need to be all that fussy with the back vertical. only there to keep the sled flat and together. Blade guard is important make sure you put one one. To easy to forget where your fingers are without it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ

My base is made of 1/2" baltic birch ply and did a bit of overkill on the verticals but to your question, yes 4" should be plenty. Mine is a bit overkill but first sled and was playing around. 2nd sled isn't quite so beefy. My runners are from some Ipe (Brazilian walnut cut-offs from a flooring installation. Screwed in from the top. Per your question mine were drilled with 3/64" pilot hole and then counter sunk. I wouldn't use a spade bit definitely will chew up the ply. Forstner and or countersink bit.

Oh forgot critical item: make sure you put a 1/8" rabbit on the bottom of the vertical facing the inside so dust has someplace to go. forgot it on the 2nd and had to take the sled apart to put it in cause sawdust was a real pain

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