Plumbing question

[Doug Carpenter]

I am installing a wall mount faucet. The body of the faucet is brass and will be closed up in the wall. Only the handle and spout stick out of the wall. The water supply inlets are 1/2" female threads.

I bought copper fittings that are 1/2" male threads on one side and 1/2" sweat joints on the other side. I used oaty pipe dope on the threads installed them and sweat my joints. Is this the best way to do this? Naturally when I finished they leaked at the threaded joints.

Was the heat from soldering the joints bad for the pipe dope? I tried heating the joints tightening the threaded joints and resoldering but they leaked again?

I'm considering a sharkbite but I'm worried about it being behind the wall.

What would be the best way to go about this?

Thanks, Doug

[Myk Rian]

Is this the best way to do this?
Nope. Sweat, then dope.

[Peter Quinn]

Got a manufacturer and model number on that faucet? Hard to advise specifically, so many different types.

IME, and by that I should note I am not a plumber, just the grandson of a plumber, pipe dope doesn't like torch heat. Generally I would think you sweat the copper, you need to nail the depth (i.e. the proper amount of male thread must protrude from finished wall to thread the faucet fittings post wall covering), put a cap on the threaded end, pressure test the lines that will be buried in the wall, proceed with wall finishes, install threaded connections last. What you don't do is make connections in the wall then close up the walls and hope for the best. Most faucets are designed to be installed as a last step, how could you possibly install a faucet then add wall covering (sheet rock, tile, etc) later? The lines have to be well secured to framing as they are also holding the faucet in place, like a shower head or independent shower valves. They make brass elbows with screw connections for this, you have to block out the wall properly to have a place to make those connections. Certain things are worth paying the $90+/hr a plumber requires to have done correctly, the damage you could incur doing this wrong will certainly out way the cost of a professional, it is my sincere advice that if you are over your depth on this on, you seek out a professional. But please post faucet info so spec sheets can be pulled and better more precise advise given. Perhaps a plumbing forum may be of more help?

[scott vroom]

What material are the 1/2" supply pipes?

[Doug Carpenter]

The faucet is a vigo vgo5001ch

The soldered joints are in such close proximity to the threaded fitting that I can't seem to keep from heating the dope. And it is a pretty confined area so I can't solder a portion of it and still turn it to thread the fittings in.

It is starting to sound like a need a new plan.

[Doug Carpenter]

The supply lines are copper. It gets plumbed in like a shower valve pretty much. Its just that the valve body has threaded inlets.

[Bill Huber]

What I would do is to sweat the fitting in a 8" copper pipe, then sweat a union or coupler on the other end. Screw this to the faucet with Teflon tape.
If you use a union sweat the other half to the supply line and then install the faucet.
If you are use a coupler sweat it to the supply and you have it.
Now make sure it is all secure and install the wall board.

[Chris Edwards123]

I think faucet connections are usually a compression fitting. Could you cut your copper shorter, install the fitting you purchased and then use standard faucet connection lines/hoses to connect your fitting to the faucet? Good luck.

[scott vroom]

Here's how I do it. first solder the nipple to the threaded copper coupling, then thread that assembly into the brass faucet using pipe dope. With nipple already soldered, no worries about heating the dope. Next, cut off the threaded coupling on the 1/2" supply (I assume the threads are a coupling since straight copper pipe is not threaded). Next, use a copper elbow to tie the horizontal nipple to the vertical supply. (I'm assuming your supply is vertical in the wall. If it's horizontal, then use a straight slip coupling in place of the elbow.

I took a pic of the parts laid out as described.

[Bob Reda]

The last thing to do is screw the threaded part into the device. putting that much heat on the device could possibly melt the rubber o rings and plastic parts in the device. It might be ruined already. I would use teflon tape and pipe dope. put Teflon tape on first followed by pipe dope. Remember, it doesn't by itself stop leaking, it just allow you to screw it in a little farther preventing it from leaking. Allow yourself an access door on the back, whether in a closet or anyplace for that matter. You will probably be visiting that area again.

Bob

[Doug Carpenter]

Scott, those are exactly the parts I am using, I am going to do what you and Bill describe. In fact that is what I did in the first place but I don't think I allowed enough distance away from the threaded joint for my next soldered joint. I will reroute things a bit so I can use an 8" piece of pipe with the threaded part already soldered on. I'll hope that is far enough away from the dope to keep from heating it too much.

Also I did remove the cartridge from the body so I know I didn't overheat any parts. I hate to use anything that requires service because even with an access panel on the other side of the wall; it would be very difficult to do anything.

Thanks guys, I'll report back.

[Peter Quinn]

I'm still curious how you intend to get the wall covering behind the installed faucet in precise manner? I've never seen a fixture you had to install before drywall, I have put in a few shower diverters that had to be sweat in place with all packing removed. It sure helps to have a B tank to heat the brass quickly before the various nylon parts in the diverter turn liquid!

[Doug Carpenter]

Here is a picture of the faucet. It is intended for this purpose. Only the spout and handle stick out of the wall.

I used longer stems off of the threaded fittings. Also the manufacturer said to use only Teflon tape so I did that as well. When I soldered the end of the pipe opposite the threaded fitting I also wrapped a wet rag around the pipe in hopes of keeping the threaded end cool. I think it worked pretty well.

I still have to flush it out and install the cartridge before I can test my joints.

I am a gunstock maker and I had this piece of walnut I was going to use for a stock but my wife suggested I use it for the countertop. So here is a sneak peak.

Hmmm. my pictures are upside down? What am I doing wrong?

[scott vroom]

Pics rotated...

Don't forget to block & strap the copper supply pipes to avoid rattling. Looks nice.

[Doug Carpenter]

Thanks, Scott I don't know what I did wrong.

I will certainly strap them down. After I'm sure nothing is leaking.

[Doug Herzberg]

It looks like you have male adapters at the valve body and a nipple and cap where the spout will go. This is typical for this type of faucet. If the leak is where the male adapters enter the valve body, it is likely you didn't tighten the threaded connection enough. Pipe threads are tapered; the more you tighten, the better the seal. With steel, it is almost impossible to damage the fitting; with copper and brass, you have to use a little less than all your strength, but put quite a bit of torque into it. Use an open end wrench to avoid rounding off the flats on the male adapter. I would go 4 or five times around with the Teflon tape.

Your post at 2:28 pm (local) yesterday is the right procedure, especially the wet rag. If you still have a leak. you can cut the straight pipe leading into the valve body, tighten the threaded fittings, and sweat in a repair coupling, repeating the wet rag trick. It is possible you got the male adapters cross-threaded, but it doesn't look like it to me. If all else fails, check for that.

If one of your sweat joints is leaking, you'll need to get the joint completely dry, heat it to melt the old solder, flux it and re-solder the joint. The supply tube at the bottom will not drain unless you cut it at the low point. Mapp gas gives you more heat than propane and will help dry things out quicker.

You did a good job. These things happen. Good luck.

[Doug Carpenter]

Thanks, Doug. My leaks have been all in the threaded portion. You would think that would be the easiest connection of all. Yesterday I had to redo the connection on the bottom threaded connection. Now that I have finally got it stopped I see that I was not tightening them nearly enough. The instruction manual was really vague and I was afraid of breaking it. Of course once I got the bottom one right the side one started a small leak too. So one last time this morning and I'll have it!

I'm glad to say between this faucet and the shower I plumbed in for this bathroom I didn't have one soldered joint leak. Knock on Wood!