New lathe seems to not be running true

[Thad Niles]

Hi all,

I just bought and set up the Harbor freight 12 inch wood lathe with reversible head. It doesn't seem to be running true and I'm curious if there's an obvious fix (I'm not a pro turner by any means) before I lug it back to the store.

Basically, when i turn facework I get a 'high' side and 'low' side. If I put a pencil to a bowl blank, the mark goes 50-75% around the circle. When I engage a tool, I feel it oscillating harshly towards me and away from me--following that high/low pattern. This occurs whether I'm using the faceplate or my chuck.

My guess is that the head, which can be loosened and spun around for outboard turning, may be at the core of the problem. I say this because the spur centers seem to line up, and a dial indicator doesn't show that my spindle is bent (and as i lurk through the forums a bent spindle seems very unlikely). The wood screw at the end of my chuck doesn't seem to wobble, it seems to spin nice and tight. If I put a marker to the "face" of my chuck, that circle seems good. Process of elimination is pointing me towards thinking that the rotating headstock is causing problems.

What if the headstock/spindle is pointing a little up or down in relation to the bedways? That's an idea I'm kicking around right now.

Sorry to bother you guys for thoughts on a cheapo tool that's not behaving. But in a way, I almost can't fathom how even an inacaccurate lathe could produce a high and low side? My last lathe was a 1940's crafstman with brass bearings and it would click and wobble if you applied lateral pressure with your hand, but performed admirably in practice. If something is spinning, and I apply a tool at one single point, how on earth could there be high and low points--it's hard for me to imagine in my mind's eye how the tool would oscillate in and out instead of just cutting that "high" point.

So I'm a little stumped.

[Reed Gray]

Well, if all 4 feet are secure on the floor, and the lathe is leveled, then some thing else is going on. Having 3 feet on, and one slightly high can make it wobble. Grab the headstock and give it a wiggle. If it moves at all, it is not tight, a fairly easy fix. Turn the lathe on with nothing on and see if there is run out/wobble in the headstock spindle. That can be a problem. If the spindle isn't sloppy, then if it is a tube lathe, instead of rails of metal for a bed, some times the tubes can be moving. Other than that, it could be the lathe. Maybe have another turner come by and look at it? Clubs are great sources of information.

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

Welcome, Thad. You have come to a place with a lot of experienced and kind people. Good luck getting your answers.

[Thad Niles]

I was talking with a friend who said if i can't locate the runout, I should look at my tools and wood I'm using. I have a good amount of maple that i'm working through as I set up and switch to this new lathe. The guy who chopped it down said it was silver maple. It's a hard wood, but it's also green.

I sharpened my tools and I must admit it did help a bit. Still some runout showing when I draw a circle with a pencil. Maybe I'm getting what I paid for with my HF lathe...

I will keep this updated since there may be someone who finds this thread on a google search, etc.

Reed and Brian: Thank you. Reed, the lathe certainly wobbles a bit due to a light-duty stand. I have 480 lbs of concrete on the frame and pedestal on which it is bolted. I've never had to fight with tools to such a degree.

Might be a combination of several factors.

BTW, during my tinkering I was able to get a halfway decent bowl from it. The only way I could was through scrapers though--a proper finishing cut with a bowl gouge was impossible.
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[Brian Kent]

Wet wood that includes heartwood and sapwood definitely can bring about a one-sided cut. I start turning a wet piece and as I turn the shape changes. A little while I am turning and a lot if I leave it to sit until I can get back to it. Could shape-shifting wood explain what you are experiencing?

[John Keeton]

The HF 34706 is actually a decent little lathe. I suspect the problem is related to other factors - out of balance blank, wood movement, and perhaps a gouge that is not quite sharp enough.

[Ken Kimbrell]

I have that lathe and had some alignment issues as well as issues with the headstock not holding it's position when locked down. During my search for the cause it was discovered that under the headstock there is a ring that the headstock uses to be able to turn. That ring attaches to the ways with three bolts... all three were loose, as in a little less than finger tight.
It may be that on your lathe that ring is loose, has some misalignment, or maybe has something lodged between it and the head or the ways.

[David Reed]

I agree with John. Unless something is loose and moving, like the headstock, shaft or tool rest, it makes no difference what the shaft aligns with if using a faceplate or chuck, unless it is bent. It will continue to spin on the same axis and in the same 3-D space. Different if you are changing from turning between centers to a faceplate. I would look seriously at how sharp the cutting tools are or if the headstock moves during cutting. Looks like something moved when you moved from cutting the outside to the inside of the piece, like the rotating headstock. (Looks like the bowl is thicker on one edge than the other or is that just perspective?)

[Bob Comerford]

A piece is almost always off-center, at least a little bit, when first mounted in any lathe; it's hard to mount it at perfect end centers. Just rough-turn its high spots off and then it'll run true.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I suspect that the headstock is moving during turning, a frequent problem with any lathe that has a moveable headstock. See if it can really be locked down securely under load.

[Tom Giacomo]

I bought and used that lathe for many years. Put the spur drive in the headstock and the cone center in the tailstock both of these come with this lathe. Bring the tailstock up to the headstock and the spur point and tailstock point should come point to point. If they do not release the headstock using the handle in front of the headstock to move it to match the tailstock point then tighten it. Then release the tailstock move it back then forward to bring it point to point again if it does not match there is probably some play in the tailstock. Mine always had some play in it, if that is the case then you will have to make a centering stick. It's just a case of the headstock and tailstock not being in direct alignment with each other. That does not interfere with any turning unless you are using a copy attachment.

[Daniel Gross]

Tom, please clarify.
you will have to make a centering stick.

Thanks
Dan