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Tim Bateson
05-11-2014, 11:25 AM
A client called late Friday with an urgent request. They needed an aluminum sign for a wooden roller coaster and needed it like yesterday. I didn't have any aluminum stock, but what I did have was some aluminum Ultra-Sub stock (for Sublimation). I scrubbed the back, cleaned, applied Cermark & 3 hours later it was ready for a couple coats of Frog Juice. Yes, it did take 3 hours to laser, but the payday was worth it. Although I'm going to try a cheaper process next time..... Assuming I have more notice.

Kev Williams
05-11-2014, 11:45 AM
Side question, since I use clear enamel by the case, why Frog Juice?

Bill Stearns
05-11-2014, 2:23 PM
Hi Tim -
I occasionally create metal signs using Laser aluminum stock - i.e. Laser Blak. Would often like to use thicker sheeting. I'm terrible at math - the UVSub metals are thicker right? (.025 and .032). Is the JDS UVSub materials (pg 164) what you're talking 'bout? is the back side plain aluminum looking? (I don't do sublimation, so I don't know.) Oh, and I'll also need to know what you mean by "Frog Juice"? A new term to me. Other than you having it available in time for your job, are there other advantages to using it? - versus laserable alums?

Bill

Mike Chance in Iowa
05-11-2014, 3:16 PM
Looks great Tim. Thanks for sharing the tip about Frog Juice. Doing a quick search online, this looks like a very useful product.

Tim Bateson
05-11-2014, 6:38 PM
Frog Juice was recommended to me some time ago here in the Forums (not Mike Null). It not only protects the finish, but provides UV protection as well. The UV protection is what makes it mandatory product for my shop. Several LIGHT passes & dry between is the key. Using too much on the first pass may well cause your print to run or look fuzzy.


...Is the JDS UVSub materials (pg 164) what you're talking 'bout? is the back side plain aluminum looking? (I don't do sublimation, so I don't know.)...Other than you having it available in time for your job, are there other advantages to using it? - versus laserable alums?

To be honest, I'm not sure which one it was - no part# or name on the back, just a date. It's only .20 thick & reflective/shiny silver on the front - not brushed. Just pulled the first aluminum sheet from the top of my sublimation metal pile. No advantage at all - except it was there. Personally I would have preferred Stainless Steel or even LaserBlak. I just didn't have any of the right size of that laying around. If I had a couple days to order, that is what I would have used.

Mike Null
05-12-2014, 7:52 AM
Tim

Not guilty on the Frog Juice. I do have some but am not a fan.

I think it was Bill Cunningham who posted a photo of a test he ran using Krylon UV spray with good success just a few days ago.

Tim Bateson
05-12-2014, 8:45 AM
...Not guilty on the Frog Juice. I do have some but am not a fan...

I'm open to your experience with it.

David Somers
05-12-2014, 10:17 AM
Mike,

Always curious! You said you are not a fan of frog juice? Can you share your experience please?

Thanks!

Dave

Mike Null
05-12-2014, 11:57 AM
I was trying to achieve UV protection and a gloss finish on plastic name tags that I had done a CLT on. (a better explanation might be, I was trying a spray on laminate) The stuff cracked and peeled. I didn't try it on metal.

David Somers
05-12-2014, 12:21 PM
Thanks Mike!!

Dave

Tim Bateson
05-12-2014, 2:06 PM
I've not tried it on plastic. It does produces a satin finish.

Kev Williams
05-12-2014, 5:41 PM
If you want a spray-on laminate, try Rustoleum Triple Thick Glaze-- How UV resistant it is I'm not sure, but it is intended for outdoor use. And they ain't kiddin' about the triple-thick part! And it's nice to spray too, doesn't run all that easily, and 2 'light' coats ends up being quite thick!