Cross cut sled VS RAS or Miter saw

[Shane Copps]

Folks,

I have been looking around for shop ideas and it seems that everyone has a cross cut sled for their tablesaw. Are there any advantages over the sled compared to using a miter (chop style) saw or a RAS? I have a plan that sets up my RAS and miter saw so that I can cut boards down as they come in the door. Which one is better (RAS is an old craftsman and Miter is a newer Dewalt) for cutting boards to length?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts
Shane

[Dave Zellers]

I get cleaner cuts with my sleds than I do with my RAS, SCMS is about the same cut quality as the sleds.

But length of cut is a huge reason for a sled. I have 2 sleds- one has a 50" capacity so I can get a clean cut on a large piece of ply and square it up so the diagonals are spot on.

[Jim Finn]

I use my DeWalt sliding compound miter saw for all cross cuts and keep a rip (24 tooth) blade in my table saw and use it only for ripping. I have a taper sled that is similar to a cross cut sled but leave the 24 tooth blade in the table saw when I use this sled. If I were to make a true cross cut in my table saw I would have to change out the blade for that cut. No a combination blade will not work. It leaves saw marks that the rip blade does not. My DeWalt SCMS is as accurate as I need and I think it is more accurate than a racial arm saw would be. Just my experience in my shop.

[Shawn Pixley]

For me it isn't accuracy that determines which I use. I don't have a RAS. It really depends upon the size or the cut for me. I'll use the SCMS to break down stock. The SCMS might or might not be used for the final cut. If I am working, nine times out of ten the table saw will be out and available. The SCMS may be out 50% of the time. For specific cuts, I do the following:

Long pieces (>48"), SCMS
Panels - Sled on table saw (up to 28" crosscut)
Tapers - taper jig on TS
Straight (90 degree) crosscut - either sled or miter gauge on TS or SCMS. This usually depends upon what the next cut or operation is. If I have the TS set up for a bevel, dado or some other cut, it can be easier to use the SCMS for cross cuts rather than switching over all the time.
For 45 degree miters - typically dedicated miter sled.
Other angled miters, miter gauge on TS
Panel bevels (45 degree) dedicated sled on TS
If I were doing lots of cross cuts of the same length, I'll set up stops on the SCMS and bang them out. This seems faster to me.

Both my Table Saw and my SCMS are dialed in to where I can depend upon the cut being accurate. The biggest problem I have is how and wher to store the sleds.

However, if I were only doing a cut or two, I use a handsaw. A lot of joinery that I do is performed using hand tools.

[Barry Richardson]

Sled for best accuracy and cleanest cut, SCSM for expediency. Sleds are also great for cutting very small pieces that can be dangerous on a chopsaw...

[Charles Coolidge]

I have a Incra Miter 5000 on my 12" table saw, and a 1952 14" Delta RAS that will cross cut 16" of 2" thick stock. I use the table saw until length of stock makes it unwieldy to control on the table saw then the RAS gets the duty. Also use the RAS for harsh jobs like cutting aluminum extrusions or sopping wet treated outdoor wood. I have HATE for inaccurate chop saws.

[Larry Frank]

I had a RAS and it was good and accurate for cutting to length. My chop saw is what I use for longer pieces and do not keep a very good blade on it. I am just not very comfortable with a long say 6 ft piece on a sled on the table saw.

My cabinet saw is the go to for making accurate and clean cuts. I do not mind changing blades as it is more about making a good cut than how fast I can do it. I like the sled for cutting face frame parts and similar when I need to be dead accurate and make repeated cuts. I find the sled better than even a good miter gauge with a stop. Of course, there is nothing better than a sled for cutting panels.

[Loren Woirhaye]

Sled are easier to get clean cuts with if they can be set up with a zero-clearance throat.

Some blades can do pretty miraculous cuts without zero-clearance. High alternate top bevel blades can do this but they are costly and don't retain the sharpness to make near-perfect cuts very long. Forrest and other manufacturers make special blades for miter and radial saws too.

[Steve Baumgartner]

I agree with some of the others that it often comes down to the size of the piece to be cut.

It is very awkward and dangerous to crosscut a 12 foot piece of 8 inch-wide 8/4 maple on a table saw, sled or not. You simply have too little control. But this cut is a piece of cake using a RAS or miter saw.

On the other hand, every RAS and miter saw has a limit on how wide a piece it can cut. As noted earlier, you can make a sled that will handle any width of panel on the table saw (though again for the awkwardness reason I prefer a track saw for large, heavy sheets).

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have a 12" miter saw [not sliding] with a good Biesemeyer table and fence system. I use that for finish cuts on components [rails, legs, etc.] Very accurate and repeatable.

But - I also have a PC 314 and a PC 548 - I use those two horses for breakdown of rough lumber. Them two gizmos are very, very cool.

I also have 2 sleds - one modest size and one big sucker - for trimming panels to length. Plus a nice Incra miter gauge.

I cut parts overlength for machining, and then go for finished length as the last step - and that is always the miter saw - assuming the part is under 8" wide.

[Tom M King]

I use the slider and RAS much more than a sled. I have the RAS very finely tuned, and only use it for accurate, right angle crosscuts. I haven't touched it in years as far as adjusting it, but it gets used a LOT. It cuts tenon shoulders too. It never cuts anything rough or with much chance at all of the blade locking up in the material. Most stuff gets rough cut with a circular saw before it ever sits on a stationary saw, if it just needs a rough length correction.

[Scott Cenicola]

Sled are easier to get clean cuts with if they can be set up with a zero-clearance throat.



Just want to make sure I am understanding this correctly, as I am about to build a new sled. You are creating a zero clearance situation by using the sled, correct? I have been looking at plans and like the idea of making the sled adjustable on the cut-off side, so you can create zero clearance with any blade.

Am I an the right track?

[Rich Engelhardt]

Which one is better (RAS is an old craftsman and Miter is a newer Dewalt) for cutting boards to length?
Let's also not overlook using a track saw.
IMHO - it's not a good/better/best situation - it's more a thing of which tool will do a particular cut the easiest and safest.
IMHO - again - all the above mentioned saws compliment each other for one reason or another.



However, if I were only doing a cut or two, I use a handsaw. A lot of joinery that I do is performed using hand tools.
And there's that also.
I dropped the addiction to using a power tool for each and every cut just a few months ago when I redid the bathroom.
I'll spare the details, but, it was just so much easier and faster to use a cross cut hand saw to trim an occasional 2x4 than it was to run out into the cold garage.

[Loren Woirhaye]

Look up Woodsmith's "Precision crosscut sled" for a neat idea for zero clearance. Another way is to make an insert for a replaceable zero clearance strip.

[Carter Forbes]

I love both my crosscut sled and scms. If there are only a few cuts, I will probably use a sliding miter saw since it require little setup (don't have to pick up the sled). If there is much repetition, the sled makes cleaner cuts and it is much quieter for my TS to run constantly than to hear my scms start up every 2 seconds. Like you, I like sizing up really long boards on on the miter saw. With ply, I get close to zero tear out with TS. Also, with my SCMS regardless of the blade, it needs to stop spinning before you can pull out to guarantee a clean cut with no material damage(or pull material away just as the blade passes thru). Just my experience with the two.