Laser Cutting Leather

[Brent Ramsay-Boyd]

Hi All

I have recently be in contact with a customer who whats detailed designs cut into leather for shoe straps.
This could be a very good opportunity for me, but I have a few issues I am hoping you can help me sort out.

Firstly and most importantly, I am getting a lot of soot on the surface of the leather after cutting, which completely changes the colour of the leather, not good on the lighter coours. Does anyone have a tried and tested method for keeping the soot off the surface of the leather.

Secondly I noticed, My first piece I cut cut beautifully and all the pieces just fell out, the second piece (on another piece of leather, did not cut all the way though even after ramping up the power and slowing down the speed.

Any Suggestions

Regards

Brent

[Mike Null]

Brent

My experience with leather is limited but so far I am happy with my results. Leathers, like all natural things, vary in thickness and density which is probably why you are getting mixed results. The other thing that is difficult is to keep it flat and in focus. I use a plywood platform (think ironing board) and clamps where possible.

As far as the soot is concerned I prefer to put a coat of natural paste wax on the leather before engraving. I then use a mild mix of Pinesol and water and try to lift the soot rather than rubbing.

These are things I have tried, others may have better ways of doing the job.

[Keith Upton]

I can't help you on the first one, but the second issue is most likely do to thickness and density variation of the leather. As a natural product, the density of the leather is going to vary from piece to piece quite a bit. This is going to make it hard to have one fast and true setting for all the pieces.

[Brett Luna]

Character, texture, and density can vary significantly within a single large piece of leather, especially if if it's a full "side." Working qualities differ between back, side, and belly. Better shoe leather is taken from the back, toward the tail. It's typically smoother, tougher, and stretches less.

[Bert Kemp]

Brent again pictures would help and what laser your using, also more info on the leather your using, are you using veg tanned, oil tan, chrome tan, garment, leather, embossed leather, there all different and would all use different methods in solving the soot issue pending on what you can and can't coat the leather with.The thickness and type of leather will also make a big difference in power to cut it and amount of soot on it. If your using thin veg tan you could use a couple coats of leather sheen before cutting will make it pretty easy to take a damp cloth and wipe off the soot. Low power fast speed should cut 2 to 4 oz leather easy when you get up to 7 to 9oz you'll need a lot more power slower spd to cut it. If you have 5 or 6 oz oil tan it will take a lot of power to cut it. It all depends on type and thickness of the leather. Give use some pictures of what your doing, what type of leather your using and what laser you have.

[Chris DeGerolamo]

if your application allows, you may have good luck wetting the leather before cutting. I did this on some 9oz with good results.

[Bert Kemp]

9 oz what? veg tan, oil tan, chrome tan, raw hide????????

[Joe Pelonio]

I agree about the inconsistent thickness, and the need for exact focus. When I cut leather I stretch it as tight as I can onto a hard sacrificial material, then apply transfer tape and mist it with water. After cutting, but before moving it, look with a flashlight to see if cut through, if not run again with more speed/less power to finish the cut.

[Doug Novic]

I have done a lot of leather with good results. It is the stink that is difficult to tolerate.

I first treat the leather with an off-the-shelf leather treatment. I personally use the stuff from a motorcycle shop. I apply it and do not rub it in or buff it but leave it built up on the leather surface. Then I engrave as needed. I set my cutting to repeat three times. If it looks like once or twice worked I can stop it before it goes to the next round. After removing it from the machine I take a cotton rag with a bit of leather treatment on it and wipe the leather off. It seems that prepping it first seals the natural pores which will not clean out.

All of the above responses are right. Leather varies in thickness and density plus there are the natural variations to contend with.

[Bert Kemp]

We still haven't answered the QUESTION as to what kind of leather he's using? or anyone else here is using.
All this advice he's getting is nill if we don't know what type of leather he is using because their all going to be different methods of treating it to help cut down on residue.

[Bill Cunningham]

If its all the same pattern and there is a large quantity then this is a job for a rule die and a click press not a laser.. I would take the job, then farm it out to a diecutting company.

[William Adams]

Is it really necessary to use a laser? I've been getting back into leatherwork and have been considering getting a Donek Drag Knife to mount on my Shapeoko (hobby-level CNC machine).

Agree that a die and press would be the best option if there's no parts-level customization.

[Jerome Stanek]

Is it really necessary to use a laser? I've been getting back into leatherwork and have been considering getting a Donek Drag Knife to mount on my Shapeoko (hobby-level CNC machine).

Agree that a die and press would be the best option if there's no parts-level customization.

try cutting thick leather with a drag knife and you will see where the laser shines.