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Dave Sheldrake
05-07-2014, 5:33 PM
Not sure if this is the right place so please move if not :)

I'm stuck, I have just purchased an old rectory in Wales that has original sash windows, the problem I have is removing the paint! there is literally mm's of the stuff (and very likely lead based on the base layers) so after trying Heat Guns, Gas torch, Soda blasting and chemical stuff (nitromors)) I'm stuck for a method to get the old paint off and thought one of you chaps / ladies may have some old timer tips :)

many thanks

Dave

Peter Kelly
05-07-2014, 6:01 PM
A steam box is an excellent way to remove paint and glazing from sash. http://www.oldewindowrestorer.com/steamcabinet.html

Quite easy and relatively inexpensive to build. No harsh chemicals or dust to deal with either.

Dave Sheldrake
05-07-2014, 6:20 PM
I'll give it a go Peter, I'm ready to try just about anything with 40 windows to do :)

thanks

Dave

Peter Kelly
05-07-2014, 9:48 PM
It's the re-glazing bit that I really dread. I reckon you'll be an expert after 40 of them!

Tom M King
05-07-2014, 10:22 PM
I have a very fast method of glazing, as far as the work goes, but you do have to let the glazing harden for a couple of weeks between the two steps. I use the DAP glazing in caulking tubes-have for about as long as they have been making such, and a VERY sharp chisel-maybe a minute total for both steps. You can reinstall the sash before the final trim, but they need to come back out for the last step. It would take me longer to type it out than to do one. I'm planning on making a video, but videos are way down the to-do list.

Mel Fulks
05-07-2014, 10:40 PM
I am terrible at glazing. And hate doing it. I've worked with some guys who could simultaneously apply and smooth to
perfection. Dap glazings are the standard ...try insisting on another brand! I consider the quality to be lousy,just doesn't
last. There is at least one brand available by order which has a much better reputation.

Peter Kelly
05-08-2014, 9:42 AM
Dap glazings are the standard ...try insisting on another brand!I'm insisting on Sarco Type M Glazing compound. Dap 33 sucks.
http://www.smithrestorationsash.com/glazingputty.html
(http://www.smithrestorationsash.com/glazingputty.html)

Mel Fulks
05-08-2014, 10:37 AM
Good choice,Peter. But I don't think its in your local Borg !

Dave Sheldrake
05-08-2014, 11:37 AM
Building a steam cabinet today :)

Glazing isn't a problem ;) I was an architectural draughtsman for a glazing company for a few years and still have some good friends in that business ;)

cheers

Dave

Peter Kelly
05-08-2014, 1:16 PM
Good choice,Peter. But I don't think its in your local Borg !No it certainly isn't. Given that I've had Dap 33 crumble to bits after a year on more than one occasion I'd say the extra investment in the Sarco product is well worth it.

Tom M King
05-08-2014, 8:22 PM
I agree that the DAP in a can is not worth getting even if it's free. The stuff in caulking tubes is different. I have some of it in Windows that I did either in the late eighties or early nineties-can't remember exactly, that are still in fine shape, as are all the others I've done since. It does shrink some though, so you can't shape it and leave it in one day. I put it in place leaving a lot extra sticking out in a convex shape by holding the caulking gun vertically as I run it along making sure it gets squeezed down in place good, let it set for a couple of weeks, and slice it to shape with a very sharp chisel in one pass. It doesn't matter how bad it looks for the application so long as you have more than enough. Half of it gets thrown away, but the time saved makes it worth it. Takes about 30 seconds to put it on a six lite, and about the same to cut it to finished shape after it's set enough. I haven't used a putty knife in probably twenty years.

I install the panes with an old Red Devil point driver. If the wood is going to be left bare on the interior of the house, like is done the majority of the time in18th and 19th Century houses around here, I prime the outside after the glass is pointed in place on the bare wood to make it easy to keep paint off the interior side. Glazing always goes on primer, never just linseed oil.

Rich Engelhardt
05-09-2014, 6:15 AM
Dap glazings are the standard ...try insisting on another brand! I consider the quality to be lousy,just doesn't
last. There is at least one brand available by order which has a much better reputation.
Dap 33 used to be good material.


RPM Corp. bought DAP in 2000, IIRC.
There seems to be a direct connection between RPM acquiring a company with good products that were once highly regarded - and an eventual decline of those products to near absolute junk.