Restoration advice needed for Lie-Nielsen planes

[John Dorough]

[Note: If this post breaks the forum rules, I apologize in advance, and ask that it be removed; this just seemed the closest applicable to my restoration need.]


Here are photos of two planes picked up off CL. I would like to try my hand at returning them to the best condition (cosmetic) I can. Functionally, the planes seem to be okay. Never tried to do anything like this, and need experienced recommendations for cast iron, brass and bronze.


I appreciate any help, and, again, if I need to take my question to another woodworking website or other forum here, just let me know.


Thank you, in advance.


John

(I think the photos will appear larger if you double click them.)


288652 288653 288654 288655

[Jim Koepke]

When this kind of challenge comes my way my rule is to start out with the mildest way first. Steel wool before abrasive sheets and such.

Sometimes it is obvious the steel wool won't work.

In this case my first move would be disassembly and then a bit of light oil before hitting it with steel wool.

For the brass parts some metal polish may be all that is needed.

Looks like someone stored these in less than optimum conditions.

jtk

[Frank Martin]

I would start with contacting Lie Nielsen first to see if they would do it for you.

[David Weaver]

Sand it until it's reasonably clean, follow with sandflex block or autosol polish. I wouldn't sand the pits all the way out, that'd be, to me, a waste of time and a good way to take a lot of precision out of the planes.

I'd expect planes like that at half of LN price, but if they were mine to use, I'd not care enough about the corrosion enough to waste time and squareness trying to sand it all out.

Any polish on the lever caps, etc, all of the brass bits will come back to new.

[Winton Applegate]

So surely none of their tools have been around long enough to need “restoration”.

Oh wait
They have.
And they do.
Ah Oh

Well do you want the geeeeeter done answer or the Pro answer ?

First the former : Take some steel wool (coarse)(to the non painted surfaces)(and not the brass) to remove much of the rust and after brushing off the steel wool crumbs and dust rub her down with machine oil (painted surfaces and all) and enjoy your fine new planes.

Now the latter : chemically remove the rust with a product designed to remove rust from iron and steel.
This is acid, but not too dangerous to use just wear gloves and do it out side in a warm area and follow the instructions that come with the kit . . .

then immediately passivate the surface before it starts rusting again with a chemical compatible with the first that comes in the “kit”.

I can not recommend any specific brands because the stuff I used to use is probably not even around any more but this is the general idea

http://chemomarine.com/index.php?module=products&pid=38 (http://chemomarine.com/index.php?module=products&pid=38)

Just go to an auto body and paint supply and tell them what you want to do.

I would not take sand paper to the planes especially the sole unless there is a problem with them not being flat enough to use effectively and they are probably just fine in that department.

[george wilson]

Do not use any kind of flexible cleaning block unless you want the corners of the planes to get rounded over instead of remaining crisp. I'd glue some abrasive paper down to glass and sand the planes on it. It will take MANY sheets of wet or dry,though. Perhaps using water to hold the wet or dry down would work. You do need some way to get it loose when it is worn. Or,tape it securely at both ends. Sand with water with a few drops of detergent in it.

If Lie Nielson would re grind them for you,that would be the best approach,unless it costs too much. You will not get rid of the discoloration unless the surface is sanded or ground away. I see the irons have suffered too.

It is just too bad that someone would let their valuable LN planes get in that condition. Were they in a natural disaster,like a storm or flood?

[Alfred Kraemer]

What a find. I guess these were significantly less than the new price.
First I would check for rust between the bed and the iron, and at the feed mechanism. With those areas I wouldn't use abrasives, at least not as the first option. Wd40 or similar would be my choice.
Second, the rust shown in the pictures probably looks worse than it is. It appears still superficial. I like the automotive sandpapers for such tasks, using that on an even surface. You might want to check if the sole is straight first, and then decide the grit to start with.

Alfred

[Winton Applegate]

sand paper

Nah dudes . . . nah
I should have been more specific in my reason for not using it. I think even LN recommends sand paper.
BUT
steel wool has a better chance of getting into the OBVIOUS pits I see in the photos.
sand paper has no chance of getting into those pits and the newbie may subscribe to the
"you have to WORK HARD" to get results line of thinking and in the process take off enough metal
eventually
to get the plane out of flat and square.

"you have to WORK HARD" to get results
BS
just devolve the rust with a little better living "through chemicals".
No scrubbing and sanding and sweating required.

The reason I did not recommend mixing oil into the steel wool is it just makes it harder to get the crumbs and rust dust off.
If steel wool use dry and brush off then oil.

[Winton Applegate]

PS:
I just happened to mention this thread to Queenmasteroftheuniverseandbabybunnytrainer because she was asking me how to "sharpen" an antique fingernail file she has that was sent to her by her father recently.
I said we were just talking about acid in the forum.

To make a long conversation short.

She concurs on the "passivation" of the surface after the acid etching process.

Her years in semiconductor chip production you understand.

[Cory Waldrop]

Unless you really want to do the work yourself I would contact Lie Nielsen for restoration. I am not saying they will do the same for you, but I have heard several stories where they restored an old plane at no cost but shipping. I think you would get them back looking near brand new and it will be well worth whatever they charge IMO. Very nice find.

[Shawn Pixley]

WD 40 and a green scotchbrite pad. Clean it up and put it to work.

[Michael Handrinos]

I just sent two planes to LN and they did just that. Mine were a bit pitted with some surface rust, came back just like new. Total cost was the shipping to get them there. I'll not shop anywhere else for planes.

[Derek Cohen]

I restored a LN skew block plane in 2008.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/LNSkewRabbetBlockPlaneRestoration_html_m592b0b38.j pg

I elicited the help of Tom LN to replace missing parts. The plane turned out to be one of the first made by LN. The body needed a good scrubbing, the sole was trued on sandpaper on glass.

If you want a "new" plane, then remove the paint and re-spray. Buff the brass until it makes your eyes bleed :) ... or just remove the grime. How much polishing depends on how far you want to go.

Since the picture below was taken, the brass has been allowed to age gracefully ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/LNSkewRabbetBlockPlaneRestoration_html_2e54e39f.jp g

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on the sandflex blocks for the sides of the casting.

If you must buff the base, get a flat and solid substrate to
glue down some wet/dry sandpaper.

A little oil, a lot of elbow grease and you'll get them back to a bright finish.
They're block planes, so the absolute flatness isn't really critical.

These are for trimming, chamfer, etc.

I like the Boeshield line of "Rust Free" spray which doesn't remove rust in pits,
but does seem to stabilize the casting so that it doesn't get worse.

[John Dorough]

Update: Thanks for all the posts.

Per the recommendation of several, I contacted Lie-Nielsen this morning by phone. As always, very pleasant conversation. (L-N should give lessons in attracting and keeping customers.) I am boxing the planes and sending them in for re-conditioning. According to the woman who answered the phone (no automatic phone tree answering machine, AND no need to be transferred to customer service) all I need do is mail the planes in with a short explanation of whatever problem I perceive. If it is a quick fix, no charge. If something will require a charge, I will be contacted by phone with a specific estimate. The entire conversation took less than three minutes.

I've purchased a couple of saws from L-N, as well as a set of chisels. I admit to squinting at the initial price (as I have done prior to purchasing items from Festool). As with Festool, however, I've never regretted the decision to take the plunge. Yet another affirmation of those choices. Festool and Lie-Nielsen remind me of what I have said for years about Apple Computers: As a general rule, the only people who really complain about the prices are those who don't own the products.

By the way, I guess my purchase of the planes may qualify as a gloat: $50.00 each, including UPS to my front door. I'm happy.
​
Thanks, again,

John

[Dave Parkis]

WD 40 and a green scotchbrite pad. Clean it up and put it to work.
This or send them back to Lie Nielsen.

[Al Weber]

I bought several used LN planes a couple of years ago that had apparently been stored in a flooded area as they were badly corroded. I cleaned up surfaces with wet-dry paper of at least 800 grit and used a brass polish (don't remember which one) on the polished surfaces. However, there was some internal issues on steel parts that required some expertise and LN took them, brought them back to new condition and all I paid was for shipping to Maine. I'm not sure how far they go with this in terms of numbers of items but they told me that LN products have a life time warranty irregardless of the owner. Give them a call. Why mess with things when you can have it done right?

[Tony Zaffuto]

They're tools, and meant to be used as tools!

As the tools are probably already on their way to L-N, here is what I would have done: Clean dirt & grit from the tools. Check for flatness on a granite plate. If need flattening, affix some Sc paper to the plate and flatten (if not too bad and I imagine these are not too bad). If badly warped for whatever reason, I would have the soles surface ground. Sharpen the blades and use them!

[David Weaver]

I would've done the same thing, tony. The only reason I'd have them seriously cleaned up and take the time to mail them, grind them, etc, would be if I wanted to sell them.

Otherwise, they are tools that cost about $150 or $175 new, sort of run of the mill (I might panic a little more about condition if they were holtey planes that had been forgotten).

Bright clean cast freshly ground will someday rust again.