How to price a silverware etching job?

[Bob Crimmins]

I'm new to the business of etching and could use some advice on pricing a job. A prospective client has asked me to give him a price to etch their company logo onto the handles of a few hundred pieces of stainless steel silverware. I obtained some samples, tested the etching and figured out the proper metal treatment and laser settings to do a nice etch. The logo is small; about .3 inches x .6 inches. I've figured out how to cut a jig to precisely position about 50 pieces at a time. The etch time for each piece is only about 15 seconds (once the jig is designed, cut and positioned and once the CerMark [or an alternative ;-] has been applied.) Of course, the CerMark/etc. has to be cleaned off afterward as well... so that's additional labor. Based on the fact that I can't find ANY place that has ever done a silverware job like this, I'm assuming this is a pretty non-standard project... and thus it's hard to figure out what a fair market price would be -- I can't find a market!!! I was thinking a few hundred bucks as a setup charge for designing/cutting the jigs and the CerMark application/cleanup and then $1.50 per piece for the etch. Is that way off in either direction? How would you price the job?

Thanks for the help!

Bob

[Mike Null]

I believe the set up fee you mentioned is excessive by a lot. On the other hand I could see $2 each for the marking.

[Bob Crimmins]

Thanks for that, Mike.

[Kev Williams]

Agree on the high setup cost-- I don't think I've ever charged more than $50 as a setup fee... most of the time I just factor it into the price.

I put the US Marines logo on a bunch of silverware for a good friend awhile back, about 40 pieces- I just did them one at a time in a self-centering clamp, setup time was less than 10 minutes, the 40 pieces took about 20 minutes to run, another 10 minutes to clean up... At $1.50 a pop with setup included that's around $90 an hour, which I'll never complain about! $2 each with setup included is more than fair.. (FWIW I donated this job)

Just me, but if I was making a jig, I'd limit it to maybe 10 parts at a time. You can prep the next 10 parts while 10 parts are running-- this keeps you busy with in and out, and you're always watching, so if anything wrong happens you can keep errors to a minimum. And a 10 piece jig will be much easier to fab...

[Bob Crimmins]

Thanks, Kev... very helpful. Can I ask what did you use as the metal etch treatment, e.g., CerMark?

[Mike Null]

I am assuming you'll be marking stainless in which case I always use Cermark.

[Bob Crimmins]

Would you use the tape, the spray or the slurry?

[Mike Null]

Given the tiny mark, I would use a sponge brush and the mix. You should be able to mark all of them with one or two loads in the sponge.

I've been doing a similar job for several years now and the sponge is faster in every way than any other method.

288506

[Bob Crimmins]

I'm attracted to the tape and the spray because it seems like it would be easier to get an even coating than a sponge. I've been using dry moly spray for my own personal marking projects; it works great but getting an even coating can be temperamental. I've never used CerMark before but for a paying job like this I don't want to mess around. Is there much of a learning curve in getting an even application of the CerMark? Is it even very sensitive to the evenness of the coating?

[matthew knott]

i would also say set up is expensive, adding $2 on to the price of each part. Weigh up if you really need to make a big tray jig, if its a one off job you might spend longer making the jig than you would just having a simple jig and doing one at a time. If you assume 15 seconds to take a part out, put a new one in and press go its only an extra 45 minutes.
Another factor is you pricing the job using the equipment you have, if they get a quote of someone with a fiber laser they will probably being paying less than a dollar each and very little setup. The way i would look at it is you simply wont compete at that level so don't try, price it high and hope that your the only engraver in the frame for the job. Ultimately no one on here can tell you what to charge, you want to get the most amount of money but not lose the work to someone else, as long as you feel its worth while at the price you choice then its all good!

[Tim Bateson]

Bob, you have no signature to tell us anything about your laser equipment. This greatly helps when asking for advise. The tape is only recommended for lasers at 45wattts & over.

[Bob Crimmins]

My bad. Fixed. See below.

[Mike Null]

Mix the Cermark to the consistency of 2% milk. It must be stirred frequently as it settles quickly. Tape is way too expensive for this job.

[Bert Kemp]

If The dry molly works good for you and your happy with the results why not just stay with it. You already now the process so no guessing on a new thing. JMHO

[Bill Stearns]

Bob -
This tidbit may come in handy somewhere 'long the way. I made a jig to hold stainless items, in this case knives. I use tiny, incredibly strong "earth magnets" to ensure the items stay put. I use CerMark spray. (I have learned to coat items fairly lightly.) Would have to take out a second mortgage to afford the tape. I don't like to mark too many items in one run 'case something goes wrong. I wash and inspect 'few of the items as I go along. I cushion my sink with a rubber mat to ensure items don't get scratched while washing. As for pricing, just keep in mind: "There is NO loyalty to price!" - there's always somebody out there who can do a job cheaper, so build a good relationship with your client fast as you can. Guess that's my 2-cents for now.

Bill

[Ross Moshinsky]

Small runs get setup charges. "Large" runs don't. Use your best judgement.

I also agree $2-3 sounds about right. Painting, drying, marking, cleaning, repacking will take you some time. Sometimes it helps to work backwards. How much do you think the whole job is worth? Then divide by your quantity and you can figure out a price per piece.

I would also use Cermark instead of an "inferior" method. You want consistency on a job like this. Mixing up Cermark is hardly rocket science and brushing it on is not difficult either.

[Kev Williams]

I use Cermark on all the SS I do- And I do a lot of SS (just got my second 500g bottle of mud this year, and my first gallon of alcohol is about empty)...

As for mixing, Like Mike says, thin like milk for airbrushing-- however, for a 'spoon' job I would use a brush, and a little bit thicker mix. I've found a decent, fine-hair flat art brush and just-right cermark is a one-stroke-and-done application. One dip will do 3 pieces of silverware, swish the bottom of the paint jar to keep it stirred, drag the brush across the top of the jar to remove the excess, do 3 more, repeat...

I've never been able to get a sponge to work well enough to suit me. Puts down too much, or not enough, dries out too fast-- I probably need a better sponge! ;)