Cherry Bowl Finish

[Jerry Lear]

I finished a cherry bowl, sanded it to 320 & thought it would look good finished with the Beal Buffing System. After going through three stages of buffing on the outside, the finish did not look very good. The bowl needs to have a bit more luster & I am wondering how I can achieve it after having already waxed the bowl. Can you put wipe on poly over the wax? If not, what suggestions would you have to achieve a more lustrous finish.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Jerry

[John Keeton]

I would not recommend WOP over the wax. Why not strip the wax with some mineral spirits, or better - acetone. Then you should be good to go on the WOP, or you could try to wipe on some Deft brush on lacquer thinned about 10% with acetone. You can dull that down a little with 0000, and lay on another coat and do the same. That will provide a nice luster without gloss. Keep in mind the lacquer may not be appropriate for utility use of the bowl. Film finishes and utility use don't always go together well, so it just depends on your intent.

[Harry Robinette]

+1 on what John said.

[Thomas Canfield]

Jerry,

I normally sand to 400 and then buff with Tripoli before applying a mixture of 4 parts Danish oil and 1 part polyurethane gloss varnish. This was a process told to me by Elmer Adams, Big Island, HI, and it gives a very nice build up oil finish. The mixture has no problem with the small residue of Tripoli that in in the grain and small voids. I buff each coat with Tripoli up to 4 or 5 coats and then buff final with Tripoli and apply Renaissance wax. I think you can buff off your finish/wax with Tripoli and apply an oil finish.

[robert baccus]

I'm with John--get the wax off first.

[Michelle Rich]

you don't tell us whether this is an "eatin" bowl , or an art piece. Art bowl: take the wax off and then use any finish of choice. Eatin bowl, food safe finish.

[John Keeton]

There is always debate about what constitutes an "oil" finish. Danish oil is 60% mineral spirits, and contains raw linseed oil, vegetable oil and a varnish resin of a proprietary nature. Adding polyurethane adds more mineral spirits, and a urethane resin.

While this drifts off topic somewhat and is best addressed in the Finishing forum, many flat workers that have spent years dealing with finishes would view an oil finish as one of Tung oil, linseed oil or similar oil that hardens or cures without the addition of urethane resins. Typically, an oil finish does not "build" like a resin film finish.


I have no doubt that Thomas gets a great finish with his process, but I just wanted to pose this distinction so that folks might not get confused on terminology.