Bob Smalser
06-24-2005, 10:01 PM
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101447442.jpg
A turn-of-the-last-century sport boat originally from Massachusetts’ dory builder William Chamberlain, this light dory was designed to safely carry two hunters, dogs and gear to offshore islands in November weather. It’s a lighter version of his double-ended Surf (Rescue) Dory with rig features from his larger Beachcomber racing dory, which was in turn a purpose-built version of working dories dating back to when sawmills first began producing boards economically.
Simple, with a working man’s elegance, the boat is a great family beach cruiser in addition to a sporting boat. I tried to keep my work both true to the latter end of the boat’s period prior to WWII, and also the purpose of the boat. All painted and varnished surfaces were rubbed out to tone down the shine, and all the bronze and brass on the boat will be left to patina naturally. Marsh-grass brown-red hulls and Navy grey interiors were the typical “camouflage” of the era for duck hunting. Being a sport rather than a work boat allows me to tart it up a bit…hopefully without going overboard.
The fitting-out at the end of a project is always incredibly slow and time-consuming….but that fine detail work has always been my favorite part, whether a restoration like this one, or new work.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677606.jpg
All major fittings are bronze or marine brass either salvaged from derelict boats of the era…
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677609.jpg
…or made from scratch.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677187.jpg
Tiller yoke and thwart, mainsheet block, sternsheets and stern painter…
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677612.jpg
…toggle-and-eye fittings on yacht-grade manila would be more period correct than the button snaps I used on my leather work, but I’m not that much of a purist when it comes to function…where you don’t need their strength, toggles require two hands while snaps just one, and when you do need the strength of toggles, elastic cord does a much better job than manila.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677619.jpg
A nice Leeds reproduction oil anchor lamp and laminated mast that stow away until you are caught out after dark…you can barely see here that the tiller yoke is cambered slightly to match the camber of the gunwales…
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677474.jpg
…along with period bearing compass and fog horn…and some tools and spares.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677476.jpg
Mainsheet block, swivel and served wire pennant…along with the Center for Woodenboat’s original museum registration number.
Continued…
A turn-of-the-last-century sport boat originally from Massachusetts’ dory builder William Chamberlain, this light dory was designed to safely carry two hunters, dogs and gear to offshore islands in November weather. It’s a lighter version of his double-ended Surf (Rescue) Dory with rig features from his larger Beachcomber racing dory, which was in turn a purpose-built version of working dories dating back to when sawmills first began producing boards economically.
Simple, with a working man’s elegance, the boat is a great family beach cruiser in addition to a sporting boat. I tried to keep my work both true to the latter end of the boat’s period prior to WWII, and also the purpose of the boat. All painted and varnished surfaces were rubbed out to tone down the shine, and all the bronze and brass on the boat will be left to patina naturally. Marsh-grass brown-red hulls and Navy grey interiors were the typical “camouflage” of the era for duck hunting. Being a sport rather than a work boat allows me to tart it up a bit…hopefully without going overboard.
The fitting-out at the end of a project is always incredibly slow and time-consuming….but that fine detail work has always been my favorite part, whether a restoration like this one, or new work.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677606.jpg
All major fittings are bronze or marine brass either salvaged from derelict boats of the era…
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677609.jpg
…or made from scratch.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677187.jpg
Tiller yoke and thwart, mainsheet block, sternsheets and stern painter…
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677612.jpg
…toggle-and-eye fittings on yacht-grade manila would be more period correct than the button snaps I used on my leather work, but I’m not that much of a purist when it comes to function…where you don’t need their strength, toggles require two hands while snaps just one, and when you do need the strength of toggles, elastic cord does a much better job than manila.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677619.jpg
A nice Leeds reproduction oil anchor lamp and laminated mast that stow away until you are caught out after dark…you can barely see here that the tiller yoke is cambered slightly to match the camber of the gunwales…
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677474.jpg
…along with period bearing compass and fog horn…and some tools and spares.
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677476.jpg
Mainsheet block, swivel and served wire pennant…along with the Center for Woodenboat’s original museum registration number.
Continued…