Gluing Acrylic

[Walt Langhans]

So I've glue acrylic together before, but it's been flat surface to flat surface with the glue that is like water, but I've got a case I need to build and it's going to have to support some weight. What I want to do is make the structure with slots and tabs for extra support and since there is always a little play I'm thinking the really liquid glue isn't the best choice for this. Looking around I've found that it actually comes in several different viscosities and I was wondering if anyone has any experience with them and could guide me in what might be the best choice for this situation.

Thanks!

[David Somers]

Walt,

What is the glue manufacturer and the viscosities you are thinking of please?

Dave

[Walt Langhans]

It was some stuff that I got from Tap plastics, and it was the consistency of water, but I have seen different viscosities just not sure what to go with.

[Mark Sipes]

Here is a good guide. I use nothing but #3 you might need #40

http://www.eplastics.com/Adhesives?gclid=CIXlwu_c_L0CFRWRfgodeFUAdg

[Paul Phillips]

We buy some of our plastic from a local distributor who also does custom fabricated furniture, they do art gallery pieces, they use the Weld-on #40, they said the larger the area you are trying to glue the more difficult it is to not get bubbles, it is pretty much a trade secret how to get a perfect bubble free glue bond on a large area and at least takes some time and practice. For smaller areas the #16 works good also, basically, the longer the glue has to dry, the better the bond will be.

[Travis Wizniuk]

Youtube is your friend..

I have watched some really good videos on how to use the TAP acrylic cement to get bubble free bond that is stronger than the acrylic itself.. Its my understanding that all the professionals use that stuff..

The secret is the proper applicator.. They use squeeze bottles with long needles.. The key is both squeezing and sucking to ensure the cement only gets in the joints..

This will get you started..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT6Ow_cBTps

[walter hofmann]

hi
I make my own just dissolve some acrylic little pieces with aceton with steering and for thicker viscosities I add more acryl pieces.
its cheap but its the best .
greetings
waltfl

[Walt Langhans]

Thanks guys!

[Rich Harman]

I cut a lot of acrylic for use in salt water aquariums. I have seen how they glue them together and it is not like in the Tap videos. They use thin pieces of wire (like from a twist tie) to give just a little gap between the pieces. Then they run a line of the water thin solvent glue, it will fill the empty space. Let it set for almost a minute, then pull out the wires. The pieces are held lightly in clamps so that it can slide down once the wires are removed, then the clamps are snugged up and the whole things sits for a while until the glue has set up. I haven't had the need to try this myself but if I did, that is how I would do it.

[Mike Null]

I have had pretty good luck with the very thin solvent cement (#3). Be sure the edges are clean, preferably slightly rough, and do not starve the joint. Using too little solvent is, in my experience, the number one cause of gaps in the joint.

My work has been confined to award type projects; no large work that could stress the joints.

[Jess Phiz]

We used the solvent cement to make this Fish tank, It held up fine with no leaks :)
288226

[Bruce Clumpner]

So if you mess up and have bubbles and need to disassemble a glued acrylic award, how to you do that.. Reapply solvent to separate and reposition? Do you need to refinish the surfaces to insure a better bond... Kinda stuck here, thanks for any help.

[Gary Hair]

So if you mess up and have bubbles and need to disassemble a glued acrylic award, how to you do that.. Reapply solvent to separate and reposition? Do you need to refinish the surfaces to insure a better bond... Kinda stuck here, thanks for any help.

I don't believe disassembling is an option, you'll have to start over with new parts/pieces.

[Ross Moshinsky]

So if you mess up and have bubbles and need to disassemble a glued acrylic award, how to you do that.. Reapply solvent to separate and reposition? Do you need to refinish the surfaces to insure a better bond... Kinda stuck here, thanks for any help.

You may not want to hear this, but it's pretty typical to see a bit of bubbles with glued acrylic awards. A lot of people don't do a great job, so you have the option of leaving it. Not exactly ideal, but it's possible. Just as an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbJ_fmBO60I That joint is not perfect but it's considered fine by industry standards.

If you really want to do it again, there is a chance you'll be able to break apart the award. I've done it by hand if the bond is really bad or most of the time I end up using some sort of force like a rubber mallet. Sometimes you have to get creative. I'm not saying it's always successful, but if the parts are considered garbage anyway, what do you have to lose? As for cleaning up, I'd clean the actual award with very high grit sandpaper. I'd clean the base with cleaner/solvent.

Next time you do the glue up, use more glue. It will evaporate if it seeps out. You're starving the joint if you get a lot of bubbles. Also don't be afraid to wiggle the award around a little. Sometimes it will push out the air bubbles.

[Mike Null]

If you are in a high humidity area forget about doing anything bubble free. I keep my shop at a fairly constant temperature and humidity with air conditioning and a dehumidifier.

[Clark Pace]

It's really hard to fine goo information on getting no or little bubbles. It's also a lot of hard practice. I got a job working at an acrylic fab shop and there are a lot of tips, and tricks to get a consistent and reliable no/very little bubbles.

also I will say that very good fab persons can get very little bubbles, even on 45 degree cuts. And good quality trophies should not have bubbles. And it's very possible to do.

I have been gluing acrylic for about 5+ years, and even so I have learnt several things from the guys at the fab shop who have been doing it for 25+ years. There are tips, and I guess tricks, but practice and prep is a big thing. But it does seem like it's kind of hidden info on those tips.


If you are in a high humidity area forget about doing anything bubble free. I keep my shop at a fairly constant temperature and humidity with air conditioning and a dehumidifier.

[Norman Roberts]

Walt

Have you figured out your acrylic gluing ?
I have have owned a high end acrylic fabrication company for 35 years. We build test chambers that have to be air & water tight with bubble free seams.
If you are trying to glue parts that have been laser cut, you will never get a bubble free joint.

If you send me a PM with photos or drawings of what you are trying to glue I may be able to help

[Frank Corker]

The demo shown on the YouTube for gluing the award to the base is scary. I would never lift the object. Movement that she had going there would have resulted in marking and wiping the cloth over having just applied it is a recipe for disaster. Tap Plastics on YouTube will give you a much more sensible way to do it. Or this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFpMeBQEmrI

[Keith Colson]

I get bubble free cement joints on acrylic, not every time but mostly. Like Frank said you don't lift it. You let the cement (weldon 4 is what I use) "wick" into place. When using a syringe don't push the plunger as it will make a mess. Just squeeze the sides of a full syringe and it works great. For the cement to wick well you need as smooth of a surface as possible. e.g. the demo above was not done with a cut edge, that's why it was perfect. If your cut edge does not look like glass you won't get glassy results.

Cheers
Keith

[Mike Null]

Most of the acrylic awards I glue have a sanded edge on the bottom of the upright piece. The base is glossy. I clean with dna then use the syringe. I do not believe that both surfaces being glossy is necessary just so they aren't rough.

I have used the cement successfully on lasered surfaces but they were opaque so being bubble free was not an issue.

[Clark Pace]

The biggest tip is the flatter the better. Get a jointer if possible, and or setup a cheap router with a flat cut. You can kind of setup a jointer style cut. Look on youtube under router as jointer or edge jointer.