Craigslist jointer advice please

[John Emwonk]

Is this an ok way to go for a noob hobbyist?

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/tls/4436999703.html

My hope is to locate an older (well made) jointer and planer, following the strategy I started with the purchase of a craftsman model 113 table saw. People here recommended the 113; I found one for $100 and have bought the link belt, PALs, and am fence shopping.

I am very happy with the 113 and hope to replicate that path into the planer and jointer realm.

thanks,

[Bill Space]

Hi,

I think you would be happy with that jointer at that price. Looks to be much better than the old Craftsman that I used before upgrading to an 8" Grizzly with a longer bed. My Craftsman had a 36 inch bed. The one you are interested in is longer, which is an advantage.

That one appears to be in pretty good shape...no rust, etc.

It is probably a good price. Better hurry if interested...

[John McClanahan]

I would say that that's a good deal for a 3 knife head and long bed.

John

[Matt Krusen]

My friend had that planer for 4 or 5 years before recently upgrading to a Powermatic. He had no problems with it and produced some great projects with it. Seems like a pretty good price as well.

[Loren Woirhaye]

It will serve well for most work. I've seen those cheaper but not by a lot.

[Russ Marcum]

I would think it sounds a little high, but I may be jaded by the fact I just picked up a Grizzly 1182Z in the KC area for $75

[eugene thomas]

I think would be going to check out. Long as take care of it should be able to get the money out of it if want to upgrade down the road.

[John Emwonk]

I grabbed it for $180, and now must figure it out. I found a manual online.

I have are noticed that the fence will pivot very slightly and have not figured out how to lock that down or whether that is ok.

By pivot what I mean is if the fence is the top of a letter T, and the blades are the base of the T, the top of the T pivots just slightly on the base.

It needs a good cleaning but I fear I won't really know if this was an ok deal until I find a friend who knows what he/she is doing.

It runs and seems to cut smooth. I figured out how to make the cut deeper or shallower, but I cannot yet figure out if the left end (upstream?) side of the table will adjust like it is supposed to. I don't know how to adjust it. Time to read tha manual.

i hope this wasn't a mistake.

[Howie Rosenberg]

Your 37-190 jointer should serve you very well. Your fence can be set at 90 or 45 degrees. The manual will tell you how to adjust it and lock it. The left end is the outfeed table. It is supposed to be set to be exactly at the height of the blades on the cutter head. Once it is set it will not need to move. The right side is your infeed table and this is the one that you will adjust to set your depth of cut. Generally when using a jointer you do not want to cut more that 1/8th inch and less is better. I have mine set at 1/16th inch.

The manual is your key to success. What will be key is that your tables are flat and parallel within themselves and from each other. To check the flatness use a straight edge on the table both lengthwise and crosswise. If they are not flat then you will likely need to get them reground. If they are flat but not level then you may be able to adjust the gibs.

I thought it interesting that you chose to get a jointer as your second machine. Do you plan on using a lot of rough cut lumber? I would have thought a planer or a band saw would be on your radar as your next machine.

By the way, jointers are very simple machines without a lot of parts. I recently took apart and restored a Delta 37-207 6" jointer and it was fairly easy to do. I am not suggesting that you completely take your jointer apart. If it runs smooth and does not have a lot of rust then just use it and enjoy.

[John Emwonk]

Thanks Howie

I have a Laguna 14 inch band saw and a craftsman 113 table saw. And a new Rockler router table.

I learned here that a planer should be the next purchase then a jointer, but when I saw this it was the first old one in a long time, which fits my price and quality strategy.

the next step is to figure out whether to get a me Dewalt style planer or a used more expensive one that has steel in it.

as for the fence. It is loose fore to aft. Standing in front, each end will move toward me and away from me just slightly.

the octagon shaft that holds the fence is just slightly loose in its housing. I have the manual printed and am on the way to the garage now.

[Danny Hamsley]

John,

I had that exact same jointer, and used it for 12 years to make many nice projects. It is a great small jointer. I sold mine 4 years ago for $175. It will serve you well. You might be able to find the manual on-line. It is pretty easy to use. If you need any help re-setting the knives after re-harpening or changing them, just give me a holler. It is not bad. All you need is the right allen wrench and a good metal straight edge.

[Keith Hankins]

Sorry I came late to your thread. I had that jointer only newer and they'd changed to an aluminum fence. I would have told you about the flexing part. I cussed mine till the day I gave it to my brother. the flex left/right will not matter, but you will have to slide it in a bit so that when it flexes out, your material is still over the knives. It cost me 3/4" in capacity, but it did work. I was constantly fiddling with keeping the fence 90 to the table, but yours appears to be cast iron so you may not have that issue. Good luck

[Mark Wooden]

I bought that model jointer new 15(?) years ago and still have it, no complaints beyond chips sometimes clog under the head when flattening 4-5" maple. Have to unplug the jointer and dig them out a little. A pretty good starter jointer. I'm pretty sure you can adjust and tighten the fence to stop any pivoting. You got it at a good price, I wouldn't sell mine for that.

[John Emwonk]

I spent the morning yesterday with the manual. The fence slop disappeared upon tightening a knob. I managed to get the outfeed table moving and adjusted. And I set the knives level with and parallel to the outfeed table. I learned the knives are not quite flat; they are low in the center. The infeed and outfeed table are not quite exactly coplanar when the infeed is set at zero cut, but they are very very close.

is it better to get new knives or to hone the ones I have using a honing jig?

[Danny Hamsley]

I would start with a new set of knives. They last a good while if you keep grit off your boards.

[eugene thomas]

I would get new knives but have set ya have sharpened.

[John Emwonk]

Thanks

any suggestions which knives to go with? I see a set on Amazon for $19, another Amazon set of original delta for $60, and various aftermarket options ranging up to $100 for all-carbide.

[Scott Rychnovsky]

I would recommend a good set of HSS knives. I am not convinced carbide are worth it unless you run high volume. Do not buy Delta--they are way overpriced. Amazon may be fine but I went with Global Tooling and am very happy with them. Note that the shipping charges add up.

http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/planer-knives.html

I am paying about the same to sharpen knives as to buy new. Eventually you might look into sharpening gadgets for the home.


Scott

[John Emwonk]

In looking over the manual closer, I found some guidance on gib adjustment. But I'm not grasping what constitutes proper gib adjustment. And what is the "outboard" edge of the table? How does one know when one's gib is correct?



ADJUSTING TABLE GIBS
“Gibs” are provided to take up all play between the
mating dovetail ways of the base and the infeed and
outfeed tables. The “gib” for the infeed table is shown at
(A) Fig. 46, and the “gib” for the outfeed table is shown
at (B) Fig. 47. Proper “gib” adjustment is necessary for
the correct functioning of the jointer. The “gibs” were
adjusted at the factory and should require no further
adjustment. If it becomes necessary to adjust the “gibs”,
due to poor surface finish, proceed as follows:
1. To adjust the infeed or outfeed table “gibs,” loosen
three locknuts (F) Fig. 46, for the infeed table or two
locknuts (G) Fig. 47, for the outfeed table. For the infeed
table, make sure the table locking lever is loose. For the
outfeed table, make sure the table locking screw (E)
Fig. 47, is loose.
2. Tighten or loosen three gib adjustment screws (C)
Fig. 46, as necessary for the infeed table or two gib
adjustment screws (D) Fig. 47, as necessary for the
outfeed table; starting with the lower screw first and as
you proceed to the top screw, gently raise the outboard
edge of the table that is being adjusted. This will offset
any tendency for the table casting to “droop or sag” and
permit the gib to be adjusted to a secure fit. After the
gibs have been adjusted, tighten locknuts (F) Fig. 46, (G)
Fig. 47, table locking screw (E) Fig. 47, and infeed table
locking lever.
IMPORTANT:
Do not leave the adjusting screws too
loose. It should take a little bit of effort to move the tables
up or down. Jointers are finishing machines and you
can’t expect to get good accuracy or finish if the tables
are set loose and sloppy.