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View Full Version : Bandsaws to look out for and what to look for in one



Michael Yadfar
04-23-2014, 6:38 AM
I'm looking to get a band saw in my shop primarily for rough cutting stock and resawing, along with traditional uses like curved cuts. I also have a bit of limited budget so I can't quite buy what's on the top end, but I would be willing to pay what I need for the right machine. So pretty much what I'm looking for is A) what to look for in a bandsaw, and B) good brands to look out for. On craigslist I can find an endless supply of the same Craftsman bandsaw, and they go for pretty cheap, but at the same time there's probably a reason for this (crapsman). Another thing I see a lot of is high end stuff that is in the $1000s, a bit high for me. The mid line stuff probably goes quick so I can keep an eye out, and I may even consider buying new

Rich Engelhardt
04-23-2014, 7:57 AM
Nothing to offer other than I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread.

I've seen comments about the 12" Craftsman band saw being a real gem.
Problem is, which one?!?!?!

There must be something like eleventy seven dozen different models of Craftsman 12" band saws made!

Al Launier
04-23-2014, 8:16 AM
Some considerations:
Since you are thinking of resawing, then a 12" vertical capacity should handle your needs. This could be from a 12" BS, or a 6" BS with a 6" Riser Block.
Look for cast iron wheels that are factory computer balanced.
Cast iron frame.
For curvature work look for BS that can use a 1/8" blade, or at least 3/16".
Minimum 1 HP.
Decent sized table with tilt capability.
Grizzly makes a good BS for a reasonable price.

glenn bradley
04-23-2014, 8:28 AM
A) what to look for in a bandsaw

You need to define your needs; required cutting height, required throat depth, power, machine footprint, etc. The cast iron 14" meets many home shop needs but, riser blocks and the bolt-ons that go with them can be good or bad depending on the saw frame's ability to accept the additional load. Grizzly's 17" saw is around $1000 and "tons" of folks have them and are very happy (including me).


B) good brands to look out for.

"Good" will rapidly become a discussion based on budget, length of time you want to look for used, opportunity, etc. If you give us a better figure for your budget you will get more qualified answers. If I was spending $1000 and the height and depth fit my needs I would buy a Grizzly G0513X2 in a heartbeat based on my experience. If I didn't need the capacity I would look for a pre-1970's Delta 14" cast iron machine used and add the things that made it better for me. In the new 14" cast iron saws there are some badges that go for $1000 but, get a close look and you'll wonder why.

Once you decide on a size that will meet your needs you could start a thread (or do a search) on "what (your size here) bandsaw do you have and do you like it?" Good luck and enjoy the hunt.

Michael Yadfar
04-23-2014, 9:18 AM
Nothing to offer other than I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread.I've seen comments about the 12" Craftsman band saw being a real gem.Problem is, which one?!?!?!There must be something like eleventy seven dozen different models of Craftsman 12" band saws made!Yea I've had craftsman products before that were impressive in quality, they often do have a few decent products out, but I've also seen a lot of junk

Rich Engelhardt
04-23-2014, 9:25 AM
One tip I can give you though...

If you search for a use one, use both - bandsaw and band saw - as your search terms.

Michael Yadfar
04-23-2014, 9:35 AM
You need to define your needs; required cutting height, required throat depth, power, machine footprint, etc. The cast iron 14" meets many home shop needs but, riser blocks and the bolt-ons that go with them can be good or bad depending on the saw frame's ability to accept the additional load. Grizzly's 17" saw is around $1000 and "tons" of folks have them and are very happy (including me)."Good" will rapidly become a discussion based on budget, length of time you want to look for used, opportunity, etc. If you give us a better figure for your budget you will get more qualified answers. If I was spending $1000 and the height and depth fit my needs I would buy a Grizzly G0513X2 in a heartbeat based on my experience. If I didn't need the capacity I would look for a pre-1970's Delta 14" cast iron machine used and add the things that made it better for me. In the new 14" cast iron saws there are some badges that go for $1000 but, get a close look and you'll wonder why.Once you decide on a size that will meet your needs you could start a thread (or do a search) on "what (your size here) bandsaw do you have and do you like it?" Good luck and enjoy the hunt.I believe I can probably get away with something with a 12" height capacity, I can't see needing anything higher for my purpose. $1000 is truly way higher than what I wanted to go. The true range I want to stay in is >/= $500. Some people laugh at that budget and tell me I should wait til I got more money, but I know for a fact I can find decent stuff out there with my budget. My jointer, table saw, and planer were all under $500 and it's very decent equipment that I'm able to produce with.

Cary Falk
04-23-2014, 9:41 AM
I would stick with a Grizzly 17" steel frame or the Rikon 18" steel frame. I think the Rikon goes on sale 2x a year for about $1000. I have the G0513x2 and love it. I wouldn't even mess with a 14" CI bandsaw for your needs. I had a Delta and hated it. Stay away ffom the Jet 18" steel frame with the square spine. They had flex issues.

Jim Finn
04-23-2014, 10:07 AM
Close to your budget a GO555 from grizzly works well for me. I mostly use it for resawing 8" stock so I also bought the riser, re-saw fence and carbide blade.

Shawn Pixley
04-23-2014, 10:31 AM
I have the Rikon 10-325 (14" throat/12" resaw capacity). It's a nice enough saw. I use primarily for resawing but cuts curves as well. I got mine for about $600 a few years back. The 17" Rikon and the 17" Grizzley are also thought to be solid.

Michael Yadfar
04-23-2014, 12:16 PM
Close to your budget a GO555 from grizzly works well for me. I mostly use it for resawing 8" stock so I also bought the riser, re-saw fence and carbide blade.I was just looking at those and they look like a really good deal. It's like $650 including shipping and looks like a solid tool. My only question is if you know the difference between the GO555 and the GO555LX. The LX actually looks like an upgrade but it's $25 cheaper which I didn't understand

Ken Fitzgerald
04-23-2014, 1:08 PM
Michael,

If you are like I was when I bought my bandsaw, I knew nothing about bandsaws. At the recommendation of several members here, I bought a book written by Mark Duginske http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw-ebook/dp/B003TXSMHS/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1398272685&sr=1-4&keywords=Bandsaw+books . You can buy it new at Amazon for $10.43. It's a fantastic reference for bandsaw use, maintenance and alignments. It even has a chapter about what to look for if you are buying a used bandsaw.

It's well worth it's cost!

Jim Rimmer
04-23-2014, 1:09 PM
I was just looking at those and they look like a really good deal. It's like $650 including shipping and looks like a solid tool. My only question is if you know the difference between the GO555 and the GO555LX. The LX actually looks like an upgrade but it's $25 cheaper which I didn't understand


Go to the Grizzly website http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-Deluxe-Bandsaw-Anniversary-Edition/G0555LANV and scroll all the way to the bottom. It will have the saws pictured at the top and specs in columns underneath so it is easy to compare. I didn't look at all categories but from what I see the table on the LX tilts 10 degrees left vs 15 on the 555. There is also a slight differnece in the speeds.

Brian W Smith
04-23-2014, 5:51 PM
Well,others have steered you twds the size side of it....which is very important.

I'll present a cpl areas of concern,here at our shop.

#1-Guide system.How much maintenance,ease of adjustment and how well they function.And like size of machine,there's no patent answer....each shop has requirements that may reward one system over another.But you still have to adj/clean.

#2-Hassle factor on blade changes.....can be mitigated with multiple BS's.We use a 14" for contour work and a Grizz 514 for resawing(and runnin it to death,I'm afraid).But in anycase....you are going to have blade changes.And this is kinda indicative of how the tensioning system works on a particular saw.It needs to be repeatable and accurate.Not saying we're in a "hurry",blade changes don't need to be quite Nascar pitstop fast but,we can't be taking 20 minutes to replace a blade either.See #1 if changing blade widths.

#3-Dust collection....we have sheet metal equipment to the effect that we can "roll our own" fittings to include elbows.BUT....that dosen't do squat if the machine isn't responsive.Meaning,irrespective of whats "downstream"....what do we have to do to get some DC hooked up to this thing?And are you willing to be cutting holes in cvrs?On new machines....this is going to cause warranty issues.On vintage equipment there's other considerations.Just saying it's an often overlooked item on BS's.

John Sanford
04-23-2014, 7:09 PM
Two examples of what you can find used for under $1000:

Laguna SE 14 (asking $750)
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=29404373&cat=&lpid=&search=laguna%20Bandsaw&ad_cid=1

This Laguna is the inspiration for the Rikon 10-325 mentioned above.


Jet 18" (asking $900) (probably a bit high for this particular model IIRC)
http://www.ksl.com/?nid=218&ad=29453885&cat=&lpid=&search=Band%20saw&ad_cid=30

Now, it's unlikely that either of those will do it for you, what with the nearly 2,000 miles between ye and thee. But good deals on great bandsaws can be found, if you're a) patient and b) willing to jump when the opportunity presents itself. (The Laguna is calling to me, as a replacement for my budget Delta [Lowes chinese model] 14" saw)

Don't get hung up on the cast iron vs welded steel frame question. Both can do the trick, yet either can be the backbone of a crappy saw.

One more thing to consider. If you buy used, you won't take as much of a depreciation hit in the event you decide to sell the saw later for whatever reason. Of course, you're also running the risk of buying somebody else's problem.