Preventing rust on planes inside drawer - ? - DIY socks? Heating pads?

[Doug Hobkirk]

I store my planes in a decently-built drawer (I use a circa 1950 dresser for drawers under my workbench). A couple of them have developed mild rust, including, most notably, my LN 60 1/2 R (rabbet) plane. It is not a big problem but it does vex me.

I did not notice anyone who specifically had done anything to limit rust in the recent "where do you store your tools" thread. I know some of you have unheated garages. Someone must have developed a solution.



Some WW companies sell "socks" for planes to control rust. Highland states theirs is "treated with hydrophobic silicone." It seems to me we must be able to make our own "bag" or "cloth wrap" or something that is impregnated with some oil or wax or something that would virtually eliminate rust.
My recollection is desiccants are impractical.
Or use some heat source that is controlled to come on during particular types of weather -a light bulb or a very small heating pad.


My shop is in an unheated garage in 20 miles west of Boston. Temperatures get down to below ten degrees F (at least once) every winter and up to 90 (occasionally) every summer. The humidity fluctuates, but it is often very moist during seasonal transitions. There are times in the spring especially when anything metal in my garage workshop is literally wet to the touch (my table saw is a BT 3000 which is aluminum).

Thanks...

[Mel Fulks]

Several of us have posted about the rust preventing emitters that work by chemicals that self migrate to steel
surfaces, NOT the same thing as desiccants. They work well as long as tools and emitter are stored in a closed space. Great
products that just have not really caught much of the market yet. Available from Lee Valley and others.

[Tom Blank]

I'm in a similar situation in an unheated garage shop but in a little more temperate region, probably not much dryer. My planes are stored in a drawer in a metal Craftsman tool cabinet. I keep each in a commercial sock, each one is wiped down with Jojoba oil when put away, and I have desiccant containers in the drawer. The desiccant containers change color (blue to pink) and can be dried out in the oven.

In the past I had a couple of rust spots show up, but since getting all three practices going (socks, wipe down, desiccants) I have not had any new outbreaks.

[paul cottingham]

I use one of those Goldenrod heaters in my plane cabinet, and it works great. I'm sure you could rig up a way to put one in a drawer.

[Shawn Pixley]

I'm in a similar situation in an unheated garage shop but in a little more temperate region, probably not much dryer. My planes are stored in a drawer in a metal Craftsman tool cabinet. I keep each in a commercial sock, each one is wiped down with Jojoba oil when put away, and I have desiccant containers in the drawer. The desiccant containers change color (blue to pink) and can be dried out in the oven.

In the past I had a couple of rust spots show up, but since getting all three practices going (socks, wipe down, desiccants) I have not had any new outbreaks.

Similarly to Tom, I keep my planes in socks after a wipe down with camilia oil. The are then placed in a drawer in a Craftsman SS tool cabinet in an unheated / uncooled garage. I live on the ocean, so salt air is my mortal enemy. All my tools get various forms of rust protection. Most objects are treated with Boeshield and or wax melted in. As many of the metal objects are covered as possible. Finger print residue is the worst at atracting the salt air. Closely followed by dust residue. I need to build a box till for my saws.

The Garage is actually a garage that turnis into a shop on weekends. So as part of putting everything in its place, the wipedown rag / oil comes out.

[Dave Parkis]

I'm guessing the climate I live in is similar to yours. I wipe down my planes with camillia oil every so often and don't have a problem. My shop is a detached garage and I use two of the little ceramic disc heaters to keep it at about 50 degrees in the winter.

[Curt Putnam]

CorrosionX [ http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx-heavy-duty.html ] is the stuff I use. No treated steel surface has ever rusted. I am told that Mobil-1 or any truly synthetic motor oil will also work about as well.

[Tom Stenzel]

I had the best luck with Boeshield T9 but it still wasn't perfect. I'm not the best at wiping off fingerprints either. I gave up, put all the planes and chisels in the basement that has a dehumidifier running. My plane collection isn't big so it's not a big deal.
-Tom

[Jim Matthews]

I'm just down the road, nearer the Coast.

I've had some success with preventive measures that involve light oil coating and the Lee Valley "blue bags".
You've got to be diligent, and wipe down after every session.

This problem is really pronounced in my damp basement and has
lead me to migrate to modern wood body planes.

The irons seem to be more rust resistant than the current crop of cast iron plane bodies.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43326&p=58755

The inestimable Adam Cherubini has an excellent primer on tools and rust prevention, here (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/rust-prevention-for-woodworkers).

[Rich Harkrader]

I use these in my plane/chisel cabinet and they work great.
http://www.amazon.com/Zerust-VC2-1-Vapor-Capsule/dp/B002YQ4US6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0K4T7YK16A672WH1PED5

[Tom M King]

I have done different things over the years, and finally went to this system with all my small tools. I can get my hands on any tool in short order, and no rust on anything. I keep silica gel canisters in all boxes that hold things like chisels, and planes. There are now a few over a hundred of these waterproof toolboxes, each in it's own cubby.

I used to keep handtools in sight, but I like rustfree better. Plane boxes are labeled: Plane 1, Plane 2, Smooth, Jack/Scrub, 6,7,8 , 55, H&R, Moulding 1, and Moulding 2

The little chainsaws aren't stored in there normally. They were just there to have their carburetors rebuilt when the picture was taken.

[Doug Hobkirk]

Excellent answers. And wide ranging. My head is still spinning.

Rust Preventative Emitters - Mel - which led me to LV - $10.50 for 11 cubic feet
Also suggested by Tom - Zerust, is "effective over a 2' radius" and "good for 1 year" - the most useful customer review was:
Zerust is an antirust atomizer that when used in a tightly closed confined space seems to totally eliminate rust. I have had a problem with tools and metal parts rusting in storage. This is an expensive problem, and I decided I was fed up with the destruction of tools, knives and parts I wasn't even using, so I waged an all out battle to stop the rust. First, clean the tools, parts, etc. Then, buy a silica pak that is also available on Amazon to soak up moisture. Then find an airtight box. Saturate a rag with corrosion block (trade name) and put it in the bottom of the box. Then put in the tools. The put a slica pack on top, and next to it a Zerust Vapor Capsule. Your rust worries should be over for at least two years. When you open the box, resaturate the rag on the bottom, and replace the silica if the indicators so that have become ineffective. Finally, replace the zerust about every two years. Things will probably last indefinitely without rust or corrosion if you follow these steps.
Do they expire or can they be revived?

Socks AND desiccants - Tom - Does something like DampRid work? It is designed for basements, a 4# tub is only $10, I assume it can be revived but I have not checked it out yet. I wanted to avoid the socks just because I'm so cheap.

Goldenrod heaters - Paul - These are new to me. Pretty interesting. $20 for 12 inches. I searched and found it only uses 12 watts. That seems pretty good.

Boeshield and wax melted in - Shawn - I am glad, for this single issue, that I don't live on the ocean.

Ceramic heaters - Dave - keep unheated garage at 50 in winter - that must be expensive? The first one I checked used up to 1500 watts. But I will admit I'd do a lot more in the garage if it was that warm...

CorrosionX - Curt - Doesn't this stuff (and Boeshield) make the tools feel oily the next time you pick it up?

Light oil inside LV Plastic Bags - Jim (and thanks for the link!) - Thanks for the heads-up on the bags. I have ten planes, so ten socks would be about $100. The plastic bags would only be around $20 (I would imagine my long planes would require 2).

===============
I am really grateful that the weather is sweet right now because my replace-major-piece-of-bathroom-floor project has me plumb tuckered out - my aches ache This is my first major project since I had my hip replaced.

Thank you all. I might try several of these ideas.

[Mel Fulks]

I think most of the emitters are mfg estimated to work for one year. I have one that has been in use over ten years. But I never leave the chest open.

[paul cottingham]

My goldenrod is only 8 watts, so it uses a negligible amount of power. My plane chest is quite small (holds about 10 planes,) but i am sure it would work great even if it was bigger. It is very effective at fighting rust. Most of the corrosion on my tools is from the salts in my hands.

[Jim Matthews]

Recent hip replacement?

Do you use a kneeler pad, available in the garden centers?
I also keep a pack of the interlocking foam pads (typically sold at Costco for kid's rooms) for the same purpose.

If you're on your hands and knees, you need some kind of padding.

287768

[Doug Hobkirk]

Recent hip replacement?

Do you use a kneeler pad, available in the garden centers?
I also keep a pack of the interlocking foam pads (typically sold at Costco for kid's rooms) for the same purpose.

If you're on your hands and knees, you need some kind of padding.



Yes! Thanks for caring. You made me smile.

[Curt Putnam]

I quit using Boshield many years ago (my tablesaw rusted using it.) I wipe down new tools with a heavy coat of Corrosion-X HD which I let sit for a while. Then I carefully wipe off. I keep a microfiber cloth in a sealed jar that isn't exactly soaked in it and wipe the tools down with that before I put them away. Not one failure. As for an oily feel, we are each different so beware - YMMV. I do not notice an oily feel no is there ever a residue on the wood. Occasionally I forget to wipe the stuff off my chisels before sharpening (I use an LV MK II jig) and the smaller chisels will squirrel around in the jig (it's that good a lubricant.)

I got turned on to Corrosion-X HD while saltwater fishing and later repping tackle. It kept naked high carbon steel knives rust free during 7 days of brine exposure and, of course, during subsequent shorter trips.

Apparently you have a dew point problem where you live. I would try each of the wipe/spray on products on one tool. If they work for you, you are good to go. If not, try the closed up heated route. Add rust prevention emitters, bags, etc. as necessary.

[Dave Parkis]

I have to admit I don't pay too much attention to how expensive the heaters are to operate, although I'm sure SWMBO would let me know if they were. My feeling is that its my hobby and there are going to be certain costs. Of course, she might very well figure that its worth the extra money to have me out of her way during the day. I would also mention that I got a LOT of free dessicant from my local pharmacy. They get lots and lots of the little packages in their deliveries and they just throw them away. I asked if they would put some aside for me and I had 6 Zip-Lock sandwich bags crammed full in less than a month. Between them and the camillia oil, I have almost no rust to deal with. The only times I have a problem is if I clean something and forget to wipe it down with the oil.

[Tom Blank]

Excellent answers. And wide ranging. My head is still spinning.


Socks AND desiccants - Tom - Does something like DampRid work? It is designed for basements, a 4# tub is only $10, I assume it can be revived but I have not checked it out yet. I wanted to avoid the socks just because I'm so cheap.


Thank you all. I might try several of these ideas.

Doug,

I figured the socks were like buying insurance on the house. Just the cost of doing business.

I didn't know anything about DampRid so looked at their website, How DampRid® Works When DampRid's white pellets are exposed to the air, they absorb excess moisture and dissolve into a brine (salt solution). That quote scares me off - don't need to be collecting salt water in my plane drawer. Sounds like it's a one-time container, so cost will add up.

I also have chisels, layout tools, drill bits, router bits, files, and some other precision measuring tools in other drawers in the tool cabinet. The other tools just get a wipe down and have the desiccant containers in their drawers. I wish they were all in one cabinet as the Goldenrods are a much simpler solution and they do work. Or better yet, a heated shop. 8^)

I also use BoeShield T-9 on handsaw and table saw blades and on a 36" straight edge. It does get a bit tacky, but I've had no rust issues since using it.

Good luck fighting the rust monster,

Tom