Design help

[David Reed]

I pulled out this large BLM (partial) burl which I acquired years ago, already rough cut into a conical shape. Did some roughing and shaping and this is what I came up with. Current dimensions are 12" diameter and 11" tall. Looking at several options and want others input before proceeding.
thinking of:
(1) finishing pretty much like it is with the ubiquitous small raised rim.
(2) I really like the Greek amphora shape. There is quite a wide variety of amphorae but thinking of a squat typical base and a equally small flared added rim, perhaps 4" or so high
(3) shorten up so height/diameter ratio is nearer the golden mean and finish top like #1 above
(4) either leave dimensions as they are or slim down diameter to golden ratio and add a taller flared, natural edge rim, perhaps about 7 1/2" tall (2/3 height of form) with or without a slender stem (kinda DD style but not so tall).

Please help with design opportunities before I destroy this hunk of wood for good (or bad?).

Below see it as is and a couple Greek amphora shapes this may be amenable to.


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[John Keeton]

David, the form as is seems to have a high shoulder - kind of hard to tell with the one pic. Of the images you posted, personally I don't care for the middle one, and of the other two, I like the one on the far left best.

I am curious - did you form a tenon on the plywood and use it as a glue/waste block??

[David Reed]

Yes John, the shoulder as it currently stands is kinda high. Planned to drop it as I cleaned up the upper portion of the form, bringing it to the 1/3 point but decided to wait for Creek input before cutting any more. I am always unsure if forms work better with the total height to width or the main form height to width ratio to match the golden mean. Both seem to work well sometimes, not others. What do you think of the narrow base of the center pic?
The plywood glue block has a dovetail recess. I prefer the recess most often as it seems to hold better. I will continue using the tail stock to finish the outside but change to the steady rest for hollowing.
Thanks for the thoughts.

[John Keeton]

The base on the middle image is a bit small IMO for this style of vase, but others may like it. Personally, I would not use a plywood glue block - either for a tenon or recess, for fear of delamination.

[Harry Robinette]

I with John on the plywood bad choice us a piece of hardwood maple,cherry or so on.

[robert baccus]

Roger that on the plywood GB. I don't even like the term waste wood. It needs to be great piece of wood for safety. I always reuse mine by using a parting tool and refacing the GB. after a vase/bowl. Don't get hung up on the Golden rule thing--check out the real pueblo bowls. It's just another rule.

[neil mackay]

Roger that on the plywood GB. I don't even like the term waste wood. It needs to be great piece of wood for safety. I always reuse mine by using a parting tool and refacing the GB. after a vase/bowl. Don't get hung up on the Golden rule thing--check out the real pueblo bowls. It's just another rule.

Yep just another rule, I'll go with that. At this stage your in fine shape to move the form around as you see fit. If your not sure just put a side and come back to it later. I often do this when the form is just not working or I just cant see it, sometimes its a few days, sometimes its few months

[Thom Sturgill]

David, just a ew points. The amphora design with the tall neck opening work because of the lift rings. Absent the rings, the neck seems out of place. JMHO

I want to do another amphora, and use texturing and burning to create a Grecian style design. I definitely will NOT use a burl for that.:D There are many Southwestern designs and designs from other parts of the world to look at too.

[David Reed]

Roger that on the plywood GB. I don't even like the term waste wood. It needs to be great piece of wood for safety. I always reuse mine by using a parting tool and refacing the GB. after a vase/bowl. Don't get hung up on the Golden rule thing--check out the real pueblo bowls. It's just another rule.

Generally use maple for GB and didn't even think about delamination when I grabbed the maple ply. Will turn it off and replace.
Trying not to get hung up on rules but many of the Pueblo vase forms seem very out of balance to my eye and the Greeks sure seem to have gotten something right.


Yep just another rule, I'll go with that. At this stage your in fine shape to move the form around as you see fit. If your not sure just put a side and come back to it later. I often do this when the form is just not working or I just cant see it, sometimes its a few days, sometimes its few months

Yea Neil, I have mounted, drawn, redrawn and set this aside several times for a number of years now. Figured it was time I got it out if the shop. Or perhaps set it aside for another year or two.


David, just a ew points. The amphora design with the tall neck opening work because of the lift rings. Absent the rings, the neck seems out of place. JMHO

I want to do another amphora, and use texturing and burning to create a Grecian style design. I definitely will NOT use a burl for that.:D There are many Southwestern designs and designs from other parts of the world to look at too.

Thom, I thought about the rings, that is with or without and still unsure. Will look at mock ups. My final plan calls for this to become a dyed then painted 'black figure' amphora, likely painted, not burned. Re burl, it has a fair bit of figure at the top but most of the remainder appears pretty plain. Will eval the figure when I get there.

Still not sure what to do with the top flare and a base or pedestal. I would like it to be taller since it will be a floor piece but too big in my mind for a slim pedestal.

[charlie knighton]

but many of the Pueblo vase forms seem very out of balance to my eye

the pueblo vase forms were for use.......broad bottoms and wide mouths

[David Reed]

the pueblo vase forms were for use.......broad bottoms and wide mouths

As were the Grecian vases, just different use. The Pueblo bowls are pleasing to me but the vase forms seem to have an unbalanced shape. Weather it is the often central max diameter or the concave, somewhat tall, broad neck, it doesn't work for me. I very much like the more subtle upturned smallish tops usually referred here as 'Southwest'. Perhaps I should revert to that form and call it a day.