Attaching router table to table saw

[Bryan Lisowski]

I bought a new table saw and before I even attach the wings, I would rather mount a router table, space saving is the main reason. I know I can buy router extension wings, but I have a Rockler router table that I would prefer to repurpose. The table measures 32x24. I will need to cut the router table, which shouldn't be a problem.

Know ow for my question. What is the best way to attach to my cast iron table? My initial thoughts are as follows:

1) after trimming RT, inserting t nuts into MDF of router table.
2) similar to above, but framing table with maple and inserting t nuts into maple.
3) adding angle iron between cast iron table and router table.

I realize I may need to put legs for additional support at the end away from table.

If there is a better way, I am open to suggestions. I really would like to avoid a stand alone cabinet.

Thanks
Bryan

[Doug Garson]

I'd go with 2, cut a rabet in the maple framing to support the mdf top. Maple will hold the t nut much better than mdf and it will also finish the open end at the far end better than the mdf.

[Michael W. Clark]

I went with #2 as well. The maple edging will finish it off well.

[Dan Blackshear]

If you have the room, I'd attach angle iron to the router table, slot some holes in it and use regular nuts and bolts with lock washers to attack to the TS.

You are going to want to be able to adjust the height so you don't have a lip catching your fence and stock.

[Bryan Lisowski]

Dan

i was leaning towards using the angle iron as well. In the end, I think some combination of all would be best. Hopefully this weekend I will see if I can make a final decision. If it doesn't work, then I will probably purchase a cast iron extension wing that has a precut opening for a router plate.

[Doug Garson]

I agree adjusting the height is important so maybe the tee nuts are not a good idea. I assume your table has angle iron front and back to support your fence. If so I see no need to add angle iron to your top, you should be able to support the router extension from the existing angle irons. Drill and slot thru holes (or just slightly oversized holes) in the maple so you can bolt right thru and adjust the height.

[Mike Olson]

I made a wing router table a little while ago and posted the build up on youtube. How thick is your Rockler router table? you may be able to use the method I did.


http://youtu.be/XN67wEh9o7E
right at 1:29 is where I show how I inserted the bolts in the router table.

[Ruhi Arslan]

If the front and rear rails are extending long enough; http://incra.com/product_rta_tsrthw.htm

[Andrew Pitonyak]

When I did this, my top was made with 1" MDF, which I then added a laminate to each side. I cut a rabbit into oak, but maple would work just fine. I then used a trim router bit and I used that to make the oak flush to the laminated MDF.

I built a support system so that the MDF would not sag form the weight of the router. I drilled holes into the cast iron of the table top and I bolted it to the oak frame, which was also supported using legs, and it was supported by the saw rail infrastructure to which it was bolted.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I made a wing router table a little while ago and posted the build up on youtube. How thick is your Rockler router table? you may be able to use the method I did.


http://youtu.be/XN67wEh9o7E
right at 1:29 is where I show how I inserted the bolts in the router table.

The top is 1 3/8 thick.

I also replaced the front and back rails with a Vega fence so no angle iron on the rails to the left of the blade.