Multi Axis box

[Ralph Lindberg]

Had some fun making a 5 axis box today, the first axis is centered, the other four are offset by 9/16 of an inch
287440
287441

[Ted Calver]

Very interesting, Ralph. Nice looking box.

[Thom Sturgill]

Fun aren't they? I've turned a few three sided and twisted too. Good job.

[charlie knighton]

way to turn outside the box, Ralph

[Richard Jones]

What, no threads? :D

[Thom Sturgill]

What, no threads? :D
Actually, since you have to turn the top and the bottom together, using tailstock pressure, threads would be a good idea. I've had a few mess up because the connection slipped.

[Ralph Lindberg]

Actually, since you have to turn the top and the bottom together, using tailstock pressure, threads would be a good idea. I've had a few mess up because the connection slipped.

The tail stock was never used


Now obviously I used some jigging.

First the block is glued to another block, that has a 3/8-16 insert (ie the same size as the drives for common bottle stoppers). This allows you to take the block off the lathe, and always get it back on, in the same position.
So it's rounded using this drive, also (in this case) the top and bottom was shaped with a tenon made on the top.

The the block was mounted on this item from Penn State ( chuck CSC600 ) using the solid block and bottle stopper adapter.
With that set into the 9/16 offset and the bottle stopper adapter set to the first position the first side is turned.
Then the adapter is rotated to the first 90 degree stop (there are stops for 120, 90 and 60 degrees) and turned again.
Repeat
Repeat.
The outside of the box is now shaped.
The box is taken off the Penn State jig and put back, centered, on the lathe.
The lid is then parted off and a recess cut into the base to accept the lid. This must be a VERY tight fit.
Next the lid is hollowed.
Remove the lid and enlarge the recess in the base to accept the lid, again this must be a VERY light fit.
The final shaping of the lid is now done.
Next the hollowing on the bottom is done and a light sanding on the join line is done so the lid is looser.
Lastly the box is parted off the block


But ya, threading is possible. Maybe when I move beyond prototype on both mutli-axis and threading

[Thom Sturgill]

I do them a bit differently. Round the blank and create tenons on both ends. Layout for the axis. Sometimes the axis runs at an angle, if so the ends are beveled so that when the blank is mounted on the twisted axis, the drive spur seats solid. Part off the top and hollow as normal for a box. Make sure the lid fits tight.

Mount on offsets and turn each side and finish sand. I use sandpaper mounted to a board.
Mount top with chuck gently in expansion mode in the hollow or gripping tenon that will go into bottom. Clean top tenon off and finis top.
Repeat above for the bottom.

So I need tailstock pressure to hold the lid on while turning.

Of course there are other alternative also. Still fun to do when you are cutting air most of the time.