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Wade Lippman
04-15-2014, 5:25 PM
I got one when Rockler offered the 1000HD for $109. I just can't resist a bargain.

I am now setting it up. They say to put the fence just to the side of the saw blade.
I think I would rather put it an inch away to keep it from the blade guard and to foolproof it when cutting a 45*.

Is there any huge draw back to this idea? I mean, other than not being able to cut 2" pieces...

Dave Paine
04-15-2014, 5:28 PM
For a 90 deg cut, having the fence close to the blade will minimize tear out.

Always a good idea to check clearance of the mitre gauge before turning on the saw.

Shawn Pixley
04-15-2014, 5:41 PM
I attach a sacrificial fence to the miter keeping the metal portion out of the way no matter what tilt or angle in can conceive. The sacrificial board lasts a couple of years.

Earl McLain
04-15-2014, 10:43 PM
I have my Kreg set exactly 1" from the blade (to keep measurement easy) and like Shawn i use a sacrificial fence. Otherwise, i'd put another cut in the aluminum fence. (gosh, i wonder how i thought of moving off the blade a bit????)
earl

Craig Behnke
04-16-2014, 10:27 AM
I attach a sacrificial fence to the miter keeping the metal portion out of the way no matter what tilt or angle in can conceive.

+1 on that advice. I tripped a sawstop cartridge when the blade barely nicked my incra miter fence when I used it at a 45 degree angle. that little lesson cost me $200 to learn....$80 for a new sawstop cartridge and $120 for a new forrest WW2 sawblade. what a complete jackwagon I was that day.

Prashun Patel
04-16-2014, 11:38 AM
So did I.
Keep that fence well away from the blade. And always 'dry-run' it through the blade with the saw off to make sure you don't hit.

Tear out will only be eliminated if there is zero clearance between the fence and the blade. If you need that, it's just better done with a sacrificial fence that you can actually cut through. Although, with the Incra, a sac fence negates all the cool things you can do with the stop.

glenn bradley
04-16-2014, 12:09 PM
My Incra has gone through a few crude modifications over the years. Parts go on and off depending what I'm doing. Currently there is a milled piece of white oak that slides into the tube and screws down. There is an MDF 'flag' glued to this which ZCI's the blade. When it gets shot a new piece is easily glued on. I also have a selection of sac fences with t-slots milled into them that go on and off as required.

287395 . 287394

Dan Schocke
04-16-2014, 3:54 PM
Why does the sacrificial fence affect the stop? On mine, the stop moves out 3/4" to accommodate the sacrificial fence -- isn't it that way on all of the Incra 1000's?

--Dan

Mark Carlson
04-16-2014, 5:32 PM
I do what glenn does. On the jessem master slider fence any sacrificial fence affects the stop. I like this a lot so I do it as well with the incra.

~mark

Jay Jolliffe
04-16-2014, 5:57 PM
+1 on that advice. I tripped a sawstop cartridge when the blade barely nicked my incra miter fence when I used it at a 45 degree angle. that little lesson cost me $200 to learn....$80 for a new sawstop cartridge and $120 for a new forrest WW2 sawblade. what a complete jackwagon I was that day.
I did the same thing a few weeks ago. It cost me new cartridge & $70.00 to get my Forrest ww1 repaired. It needed two new teeth & straightening....

Prashun Patel
04-16-2014, 7:49 PM
Because i never realized it could be used that way until your post. I feel like an idiot.... ��. I just checked mine and you are right.