Removing and Replacing Delta Milwaukee Metal Logo Nameplate on Old Lathe

[Mark R Webster]

I was trying to remove the manufacture's metal logo nameplate from an old lathe but I have not been successful so far. Anyone had any luck trying to tap out the pins holding the logo on from the backside. I tried to drift them out but they don't want to move, actually at this point I don't have a drift small enough I briefly tried with an finish nail but it quickly bend. I tried to drill from the back, without success, the pins seem to be very very hard Any suggestions on getting the pins out. If I get them out, can one buy replacement pins that can be tapped back in? Are they an item one can find at a good hardware store?

[Charles Taylor]

I'll be doing the same thing to my Rockwell/Delta drill press as soon as I get the time. Probably the best way to remove drive screws (the proper name for those pins) is to tap them out from the back whenever that's possible. Yours might be frozen in place with some rust or corrosion. Perhaps use a little penetrating oil down the holes and try tapping them out from the back again. Use a punch that's as close in diameter as possible to the hole, and with a flat end.

Other, less ideal, approaches include grinding a slot in the head and using a screwdriver, careful prying with a chisel, or (as you've tried) drilling it out. Good luck.

A good hardware store may have drive screws. I believe Fastenal has them, among others. The OWWM site is a good place to ask about them, too--both removing the old ones and finding new ones.

[Mark R Webster]

Hi Chuck, thanks! So it is an actual screw, I looked up what a drive screw looks like, interesting. I guess I will try to find a smaller punch. Any suggestions on renewing the paint on the logo. It is intact but dark from light surface rust and general age. Thanks again.

[Charles Taylor]

I don't have any good suggestions...yet. I'll be working on how to address the same issues with the tags from my machine.

[Mark R Webster]

I was toying with applying naval jelly just long enough to cut through the surface of the aged paint, then wash it off before too much damage. Just looking for other thoughts. I guess we'll see if anyone else chimes in with suggestions. Thanks

[Myk Rian]

Use a Dremel to cut a slot in the head. TAP a screwdriver into the slot, and try to twist it out. Works most of the time.
If it breaks, use a fine chisel to break off the rest of the top. Use a drift to remove the rest of it.
I have new drive screws available if you are interested. So you don't have to buy 100 of them.

[Bob Coleman]

I was able to tap the ones on my lathe (1946 Delta Homecraft 11") out from the back. If I recall correctly, I clamped a just-the-right-size nail nipped square in a pair of vice grips and tapped directly on the vice grips with the side of the head of a tap hammer. Only about 1/4" of the nail protruded past the vice grip jaws. The drive screws certainly didn't move much - took a while but worked fine. I would try penetrating oil and approach from the back first.

As for clean up: I would stay away from the naval jelly. Try either alcohol or WD-40 and a blue shop towel first.

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks for suggestions Bob. I had tried WD-40, helped a little, still pretty dark.

[Lee Schierer]

I don't have any good suggestions...yet. I'll be working on how to address the same issues with the tags from my machine.

A small nail set may be small enough to work. Or use a dull drill bit that is the right diameter.

[Mark R Webster]

I found a 1/16" punch and the drive screws came right out with a little tapping from the inside. Before I found the punch, I tried to cut a notch in the head with a Dremmel, but I must not have had the right kind of bit, it just shined up the top of the screw. These screws must be really hard, maybe a diamond mini disk would have worked. Thanks guys.
Mark

[Thomas Hotchkin]

I found a 1/16" punch and the drive screws came right out with a little tapping from the inside. Before I found the punch, I tried to cut a notch in the head with a Dremmel, but I must not have had the right kind of bit, it just shined up the top of the screw. These screws must be really hard, maybe a diamond mini disk would have worked. Thanks guys.
Mark
Mark You need the Dremel grinding wheel with the diamond coating. Its about 1" in dia. Screw driver tip need to be very tight fit into the kerf to work well. Tom

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks Tom I saw one at the hardware store yesterday, maybe I will pick one up for future needs.

[Charles Coolidge]

I was able to pry some of these out carefully with a small flat screwdriver from a 1952 RAS. The machine tags were pinned to the round column so no way to get in behind them. As others have noted they are hard as a rock and have a twist pattern but the iron is soft and I only had to grind one of them off with a dremel.

[Mark Wooden]

If they don't come out easily, I usually just mask off the badge; use a couple of layers of duct tape if media blasting, blue masking tape if painting. Easier than all the other work involved in getting them out

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks Mark