Bow Saw Blade Needed

[George Vincent]

I have a Marples 10 1/2 inch wooden bow saw and need a source for a new blade.

Does anyone know where I might find a blade?

[Jim Koepke]

George,

Congratulations on your first post to the Creek.

This may be a good read for you:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/know/bowsawdesign.html

You may need to make your own.

Another possibility would be if you can make a new center stretcher for your saw to use the longer blades Tools For Working Wood sells.

jtk

[Robert G Brown]

A way of making one is one I used on an old 16 inch bow saw. It had no blade, pins, tension cord or toggle. I cut an old band saw blade to size and cut some nails to use as pins. The blade was dull. I hand sharpened it with file just like doing a handsaw. It cuts fine now.

[Bob Glenn]

I've made them out of band saw blades also, but always have trouble drilling the holes in the end for the pins. I've tried heating and annealing the ends without much luck.

[Robert G Brown]

I had no trouble drilling the holes. I used a spring loaded punch to mark the spot. Put it on the drill press. Then a drop of oil in the dimple before drilling. The blade was a Timber Wolf from www.suffolkmachinery.com And the drill bit was part of set from hf.

[Jim Koepke]

I've made them out of band saw blades also, but always have trouble drilling the holes in the end for the pins.

This is just one of the reasons for saving old bandsaw blades.

For drilling saw blades there are many things to remember.

First is don't be in a hurry. The excitement of a new blade in a new saw or fixing an up old saw can result in a melted bit. DAMHIKT! Most folks never even thought about a melted drill bit until they make one.

Go slow use some oil. Some bits may be better suited for the job.

jtk

[Kim Malmberg]

This has been a very useful thread. I have drilled a few set of holes in various saw plates. Sometimes it has worked out great, other times I have destroyed several bits. I had understood the need for less speed as well as punching a staring hole, but I never realized you could use oil.

But I also do think the hardness of the saw plate can be very significant in terms of getting good results. Some plates seem to accept a bit much easier, and some require much more work. I've had some success just skipping the electric drill press (which isn't adjustable in terms of speed) and using either a breast drill or my hank cranked drill press.

As far as saw blades goes I could keep my eyes open. I see them every once in a while, and they're mostly made of Swedish steel.

[Mike Holbrook]

The blade for a bowsaw makes or breaks the deal. Bandsaw blades are designed for use on a fast moving machine which is different than attempting to make them work by hand. The teeth are typically hardened too, which may present some of the same problems as trying to sharpen the hardened teeth on many Japanese saw blades. Glenn at Woodjoy Tools offers a good selection of Japanese Turbo Cut blades, 400 & 600mm. Glenn also offers a handle set. From these basic parts one can make a saw, although Glenn's saw prices are very reasonable for the quality of the product. Highland Woodworking sells Turbo Cut and Putsch blades (Bow Saws, Frame Saws & Saw Blades). Highland and many other places offer blades for NOBEX frame/miter saws which might be modified for use in a bowsaw. Tools for Working Wood has a selection of parts, blades for 12" bow saws.

[Glenn Livingston]

I've made them out of band saw blades also, but always have trouble drilling the holes in the end for the pins. I've tried heating and annealing the ends without much luck.

If you decide to use a band saw blade there a a few things that will help make the task of drilling holes a little easier. As mentioned, use a punch to locate the hole and use a lubricant when you drill. Drilling a hole using a small carbide bit around 3/32" will work better than a common high speed steel bit. A carbide bit can found at places like McMaster-Carr. A good type of bandsaw blade is a flex back blade where the teeth are hard but the back is soft. For a 10 1/2" saw a 1/4" bandsaw blade with around 15 tpi should work fairly well. Try using it on the pull stroke for better results. G C Livingston

[george wilson]

I used cheap carbide tipped masonry bits for drilling our saw plates. Of course,1/8" is the smallest they come. Run them as fast as your drill press will go,and for Heaven's sake CLAMP the saws down,especially bow saw blades. Any spinning saw blade is VERY dangerous.

Beyond that,straight flute carbide blades or carbide spade bits will work fine. You can get them in smaller sizes,too. I'd still run them pretty fast. What the masonry bits do is heat up the metal so much,the temper is removed. Then,the bit scoops out the softened steel. Often the chips will be orange hot. What you have to be careful of with masonry bits is to not overheat them too much,or the brazing will melt and the carbide tip will fall off.

As for using bandsaw blades for saws,it is true that their teeth are designed for high speed. If I had no way of making a bow saw blade,I'd choose a home shop bandsaw blade with a BRIGHT finish. One of those made for use on a Craftsman brand bandsaw,or another small bandsaw. Their teeth are not hardened so much that they can't be modified by filing. And,they are thinner than black finished blades made for more professional size bandsaws. Their teeth look more like normal hand saw teeth. The best thing would be to just buy a proper bowsaw blade as listed above.