euro hinge installation.........does faceframe width matter

[tom coleman]

I am building cabinets w faceframes 1 3/4" wide. Looks to me like euro hinge references itself to inside edge of faceframe so it makes no difference weather faceframe is 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" wide.

This will be my first euro hinge installation. Looks simple. Use fence on drill press to insure that pocket hole is inset 1/8 inch from edge of door, drill hole to proper depth, square hinge to door.............attach to face frame.

Am I missing something? Suggestions appreciated.

[Jerry Miner]

I think you pretty much have it. The "1/8" from edge of door is a variable number, as is the mounting plate heght. These can be manipulated to get a certain overlay.

For example, I often use the Blum 120 deg. hinge with a 4.5 mm mounting plate and a 6mm edge bore. This combination gives me a 1/2" overlay. With a 1/8" edge bore (about 3mm) the overlay would be closer to 3/8"

Always a good idea to do a test of your set-up in scrap material before you commit.

[Max Neu]

Are you using compact hinges, or a 2 piece that requires a separate mounting plate?
If you are using a "face frame" hinge, or also known as a compact hinge, they require more space on the hinge side to open because they only have 1 pivot point.

[Justin Ludwig]

Hinge manufacture and model # would be very helpful, but it sounds like you have the basic concept down. Major factor is if you're attempting to obtain a certain reveal/margin on the exposed face frame.

[Jeff Duncan]

With face frame hinges it's all about the overlay. First you decide what overlay your looking for, then you buy hinges, then you figure where things need to be drilled etc.. UNless your doing inset which is a different matter entirely.

good luck,
JeffD

[Rich Engelhardt]

Google this:

Liberty 1-3/8 in. Hinge Installation Template

If you're using a 35mm Euro cup hinge, this thing in stupid simple to use.
You use it to lay out a hinge on a scrap piece of material, then drill out a cup in the scrap.
The template you just created makes setting the fence to bit distance a simple matter of running the Forstner bit down into the cup - then running the fence up against the template.

Also - it's pretty vital that your cups fit very snug in the cup holes. It's the friction between the cups and the wood that hols the hinges tight. The small screws keep the hinges from rotating in the hole as much, if not more, than they do to hold the hinge to the door. I like to slather some Elmer's School Glue in the cup holes. It makes the wood swell and grips the sides of the hinge cup nice and tight. If the hinges ever need to come out of the holes, the School Glue can be washed out and reapplied.
I made the mistake early on of using TBII. Then I had to replace a broken hinge.

Speaking of which - don't use Liberty cup hinges.
Home depot carries them and they are pretty cheap. They also break easily.
I made the mistake of using them in a rental house and I've been replacing them as they break with better hinges.

[John Bomment]

Faceframe width matters in such that they have to be wide enough for the overlay and minimum reveal.
Minimum reveal depends on door thickness.
For example the minimum reveal for Blum compact 38n's on a 3/4" thick door is 9/32".

The distance from the edge of the pocket hole to the edge of the door is the "boring distance"
For 38n's that would be 1/8" but for something like the 110 clip ons you can go anywhere from 3 to 7 mm which will change your overlay (with a 0 mm mounting plate) from 14 to 18 mm.

A simple way to square the hinges to the door is to use a straight edge,
here's a quick Sketchup drawing showing what I mean.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8292169312_1820e4ab1f_c.jpghttps://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8291112879_b95926e5bf_c.jpg