How to tighten handle on old plane

[dawn villaescusa]

I bought an old bench plane at a flea market for $20 hoping I could use it both as a learning tool, and eventually as an actual tool. I saw posts on restoring planes and links to videos of same. Not sure exactly where to start - probably removing rust first - got to recheck out the video. Anyway, my initial question is that the handle is slightly wobbly - I can't get it tight. Any fix to this or do I need a new handle or? Here are a couple of pix. The blade looks decent to me (with some work). The only markings are on the base under the cutter nut - Made in USA, a "U" in a circle, and the number 5 with a small mark after the 5 (not sure what).
286891286892286893

The only other plane I have is a low-angle block plane - have no idea where I picked it up or what it is but I used it on my super-newby bookshelf and table right out of the toolbox and it was great! I need to learn how to sharpen/hone it as well as this "new" one. I have a collection of old oil stones - should I toss them and buy myself some water stones? Is this a worthwhile learner-project or what would you recommend?

[maximillian arango]

What ever you do keep the oil stones!!!! Hope I caught you in time.

I'm guessing the U stands for union but I haven't looked much into them but I here they are just as good as stanley.

[steven c newman]

IF you can find some of those foam mats used to line toolbox drawers, cut out a section to fit under the wood handles. One layer SHOULD be enough.

Plane is a decent learner plane, in that you can learn how such work. It was made for "Worth", or "PEXTO". The steel frog isn't exactly the best there is. One note on that frog: DO NOT take the bolts holding it to the base out, they are a ROYAL PITA to get back in. DAMHIKT

Keep a lookout for either a used Stanley, or a used Milllers Falls plane about the same size. Usally around $15-30 range. I use oil stones for my irons, followed by sandpaper glued to a floor tile( A FLAT one) to polish things up. Nothing wrong with using the oil stones, as long as their surface is flat.

When you do get a better plane ( or a dozen,hey, it does happen) keep the old Worth around. Sharpen the iron into an 8" camber. Use this to clean off any junk on the boards you get. That way, you'll save the "good" planes and their irons for smoothing the boards.

[Steve Voigt]

I can't say for sure, but usually the handle problem is that the screw is bottoming out. Do you have a grinder? If you can gring 1/32" - 1/1/16" off the end of the screw, that will probably fix it. The grinding will foul the threads, so you will need to carefully file them at the end with a small triangle file. Don't force the screw, or you'll strip the threads in the casting and then it really will be junk.
Hard to say about your oilstones--can you post pics?--but I certainly would not toss them out.

[dawn villaescusa]

What ever you do keep the oil stones!!!! Hope I caught you in time.

I haven't thrown them away - will try to learn to use them first :o)

[dawn villaescusa]

IF you can find some of those foam mats used to line toolbox drawers, cut out a section to fit under the wood handles. One layer SHOULD be enough.

Plane is a decent learner plane, in that you can learn how such work. It was made for "Worth", or "PEXTO". The steel frog isn't exactly the best there is. One note on that frog: DO NOT take the bolts holding it to the base out, they are a ROYAL PITA to get back in. DAMHIKT

Keep a lookout for either a used Stanley, or a used Milllers Falls plane about the same size. Usally around $15-30 range. I use oil stones for my irons, followed by sandpaper glued to a floor tile( A FLAT one) to polish things up. Nothing wrong with using the oil stones, as long as their surface is flat.

When you do get a better plane ( or a dozen,hey, it does happen) keep the old Worth around. Sharpen the iron into an 8" camber. Use this to clean off any junk on the boards you get. That way, you'll save the "good" planes and their irons for smoothing the boards.

Thanks for the tip on the handle - will give it a try. Two of the oilstones are in pretty good shape, one has been roughly used, the fourth may not be an oilstone, not quite sure what it is but it was with the others. Looking for a good video on how to use oilstones. I have some old floor tiles so I can glue some grades of sandpaper to them. Thanks

[dawn villaescusa]

I can't say for sure, but usually the handle problem is that the screw is bottoming out. Do you have a grinder? If you can gring 1/32" - 1/1/16" off the end of the screw, that will probably fix it. The grinding will foul the threads, so you will need to carefully file them at the end with a small triangle file. Don't force the screw, or you'll strip the threads in the casting and then it really will be junk.
Hard to say about your oilstones--can you post pics?--but I certainly would not toss them out.

I don't have a grinder, unless my Dremel might do it. But I'll try the spacer idea first. As for the stones, it is an odd assortment - got them in an old toolbox I got from an estate years and years ago. Just pulled them out to see what I have and was assuming oilstones, but they could be anything.
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[steven c newman]

Just looked at the stones.....one looked ...OK. Oil it up and see if it will work. That would be the longest stone. Two seem to be "slips" for sharpening gouges.


There is a video out from Paul Sellers about sharpening irons. I think he just uses sandpaper on a flat tile. You can start it at say..100 grit, and work your way on up from there. Auto parts stores carry up 3000 grit paper. If using those black "wet-or-dry" papers, use some oil, like "3in1 oil". You might also look into finding a honing guide, rather than just free-hand sharpening.

[dawn villaescusa]

Just looked at the stones.....one looked ...OK. Oil it up and see if it will work. That would be the longest stone. Two seem to be "slips" for sharpening gouges.


There is a video out from Paul Sellers about sharpening irons. I think he just uses sandpaper on a flat tile. You can start it at say..100 grit, and work your way on up from there. Auto parts stores carry up 3000 grit paper. If using those black "wet-or-dry" papers, use some oil, like "3in1 oil". You might also look into finding a honing guide, rather than just free-hand sharpening.

Ok, I'll check out the video and go get some appropriate sandpaper. Thanks

[Joe Bailey]

+1 on Steve Voigt's diagnosis

The old handles often shrink, so grinding some off the rod OR using tiny washers under the screw head usually takes care of it.

[Pat Barry]

+1 on Steve Voigt's diagnosis

The old handles often shrink, so grinding some off the rod OR using tiny washers under the screw head usually takes care of it.

Obviously you could just whip out one of you old files and accomplish the same thing to take a bit of length off the screw. I don't think a piece of foam under the handle is a satisfactory solution however - you really don't want something compliant in those spots. You could make a wooden shim pretty easy though and that would fix it right up as well. Also, Joes washer is a simple fix.

[george wilson]

Be sure there are still sufficient threads remaining after you shorten the bolt. A rule is: The length of the threads should be equal to the diameter of the bolt for maximum holding power.

I agree with Pat: No foam under the handle. It will soon squash down. Use some rigid material if you decide to sleeve under the handle. If you put small washers under the head of the bolt,the head might stand up above the surface of the handle. Not that that hurts any thing,but might be unsightly. I'm for shortening the bolt,if there are sufficient threads. Be aware that if the threads do not go UP the bolt very far,you could then bottom out on where the threads terminate. You could split the cast iron boss trying to screw the bolt in tight if there are not enough threads left to go into the threaded hole all the way. I hope you understand this explanation.

[dawn villaescusa]

+1 on Steve Voigt's diagnosis

The old handles often shrink, so grinding some off the rod OR using tiny washers under the screw head usually takes care of it.

Tried the washers - two tiny washers did the trick, and doesn't make the screw head stick up so far as to be really ugly (purists would probably disagree). But it feels solid now. Thanks! Now for some de-rusting and sharpening.

[Tony Parent]

The plane is ok for learning. If you have a Lowes near you, go look at their Kobalt branded hand plane. While not as good as pre WW2 Stanleys, or LN/LV, I was pleasantly surprised when someone showed me one a few weeks ago. At only $29 (local) it's a good step up from what you have. (Sorry.)

The sandpaper method others have mentioned is usually referenced as the "scary sharp" method. Do a google search on it and you will find lots of info on it. (There are some youtube videos on it out there as well.)

The floor tile needs to be really flat and smooth. No texture to them at all. I've used a marble (or fake marble) tile from one of the big box stores to good effect. (They are cheap enough to buy a couple and put different grits of sandpaper on each.) While you are there, pick up some spray adhesive to hold the paper down, turpentine or other cleaner to take the adhesive residue off when you change paper, and a spray bottle for spritzing on water. (You can use old window cleaner bottles or whatever for the water if you prefer...)

Drag the iron backwards or you will rip/cut your sandpaper in two or three swipes.

I would try the scary sharp system first before attempting to use the stones you have. As pointed out, some look like slip stones for gouges and such. They all look very coarse. You want a good flat surface so you know what it feels like to sharpen on it and what the results are before you try using the stones you have.

I've used the following set of grits with good results. All gotten from various sources. Home Cheapo (HD), auto-parts (AP) store...

Emmery cloth (HD)
220 wet/dry (HD)
400 wet/dry (HD)
600 wet/dry (HD)
1000 wet/dry (AP)
2000 wet/dry (AP)

Use water not oil on the above...

[Joe Bailey]

If you have a Lowes near you, go look at their Kobalt branded hand plane. While not as good as pre WW2 Stanleys, or LN/LV, I was pleasantly surprised when someone showed me one a few weeks ago. At only $29 (local) it's a good step up from what you have. (Sorry.)


Then again, you might just want to have a look at this ...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?214866-Maybe-I-learned-something

[Andrew Bell]

About the loose handle, I know you said you had tried washers, but what type of washers?

Every one of my planes had loose totes, the best way I found was to use a spring washer that fits into the gap; never needed more than one, that way you tighten down and it will be exactly the right height, the theory is even with seasonal movement of the handle it will stay tight. So far all with spring washers are not moving, cracking or any other problems

[Mel Miller]

What ever you do keep the oil stones!!!! Hope I caught you in time.

I'm guessing the U stands for union but I haven't looked much into them but I here they are just as good as stanley.

It's not Union. They did make good planes, not stuff with sheet metal frogs, lever caps, etc.

[dawn villaescusa]

Then again, you might just want to have a look at this ...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?214866-Maybe-I-learned-something

Well, perhaps I will wait until I find a good one I can afford... Only planing I am currently doing is trimming edges.

[Tony Parent]

Then again, you might just want to have a look at this ...
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?214866-Maybe-I-learned-something

Yikes, sorry I mentioned it! The plane "looked" OK for what it was, but I didn't actually have a chance to use it.