A Set of Saws

[Eric Gracka]

Hello All:

You've all been asked this question before, numerous times, and accordingly I apologize. Times change & so do woodworking tools (saws?).
Which saws would you recommend for an aged woodworker (started wood working in 1990, but work & children got the better of me - I am 61 yrs. old). I'm laying out my list what I think is important in regards to saws.

Please add changes/vendors for these saws:
1. Rip (pls, add how many & TPI)
2. X-Cross (pls. add how many & TPI)
3. Panel saw (?)
4. Dovetail or Gent's saw
5. Framing Saw (seems to be the rave)

I, being retired, don't have a good pension. If one, or some of the above could do the job of many, I'd like to know.

Thanks for reading this!

[Mike Siemsen]

Erick,
I see it as a mistake to start out acquiring tools that you don't know for sure that you need or not. Since you are on a budget I would tell you to get a decent old Disston or similar 8 point crosscut saw and learn to sharpen it. Now you will have a saw and a skill. Practice sawing with your new saw and learn the skill of sawing. Now that know how to sharpen and use a saw other saws will follow you home. The true tool kit is in your head.

[Eric Gracka]

Erick,
I see it as a mistake to start out acquiring tools that you don't know for sure that you need or not. Since you are on a budget I would tell you to get a decent old Disston or similar 8 point crosscut saw and learn to sharpen it. Now you will have a saw and a skill. Practice sawing with your new saw and learn the skill of sawing. Now that know how to sharpen and use a saw other saws will follow you home. The true tool kit is in your head.

Thanks Mike - good economical advise.

[Jim Matthews]

I would start with a clean Panel saw, slightly shorter than your shirt sleeve.

Something with a 20" long line of teeth is really versatile.

It should be around 10-16 Teeth per inch.
Finer saws (with more, smaller teeth) are difficult to sharpen if your vision is failing like mine.

Coarser saws (with fewer, larger teeth) are difficult to keep on the straight and narrow.

[Doug Hobkirk]

I would start with a clean Panel saw, slightly shorter than your shirt sleeve.

Something with a 20" long line of teeth is really versatile.

It should be around 10-16 Teeth per inch.
Finer saws (with more, smaller teeth) are difficult to sharpen if your vision is failing like mine.

Coarser saws (with fewer, larger teeth) are difficult to keep on the straight and narrow.
What are you calling a panel saw? (Google is also baffled)

[David Weaver]

Panel saw is reserved for saws shorter than "carpenters" saws. Usually something 20-24" in length and with a lighter (thinner) plate than a larger 26 or 28" carpenter's saw.

[Mike Siemsen]

Panel saws were used for cutting panels of about 1/2" thickness by finish/trim carpenters/joiners where a smaller lighter saw with finer teeth is needed. Smaller thinner material requires smaller finer saws and vice versa. This is why it is tough to tell someone what they "need" without knowing what they will be doing.

[Eric Gracka]

I would start with a clean Panel saw, slightly shorter than your shirt sleeve.

Something with a 20" long line of teeth is really versatile.

It should be around 10-16 Teeth per inch.
Finer saws (with more, smaller teeth) are difficult to sharpen if your vision is failing like mine.

Coarser saws (with fewer, larger teeth) are difficult to keep on the straight and narrow.

Jim: Can I do small rips?

[Eric Gracka]

I would start with a clean Panel saw, slightly shorter than your shirt sleeve.

Something with a 20" long line of teeth is really versatile.

It should be around 10-16 Teeth per inch.
Finer saws (with more, smaller teeth) are difficult to sharpen if your vision is failing like mine.

Coarser saws (with fewer, larger teeth) are difficult to keep on the straight and narrow.

Thanks Jim: You & Mike Siemsen have provided me with a path to pursue. Any suggestions w.r.t. a "good" panel panel saw. As this will be my 1st saw (forgetting about the junk I have, and it is junk), let it be a good one (i.e. a "keeper"), and I don't mind paying a little bit extra, rather than buying "Big Box Store" quality. I would also presume that, 10 TPI (PPI) is more preferable because you can rip larger boards faster, but, I'm in no hurry. As Mike alluded to, technique, first and foremost, must be developed before moving on.

[Jim Matthews]

I do.

I have a Disston D-16 that's good for this.
Anything longer than 18 inches or so, it becomes a slog.

For short stuff, that's what I use.

(Disclaimer - I'm a hack) All the long rips on this, including resawing the front panels were done with my little D-16.

I've got a few saws, so the crosscuts were done with a basic backsaw.

I tend to reach for the smallest saw that can do the task.

286997