Raising/Lifting a Cabinet Saw?

[Jack Norfleet]

I want to move my 8" Grizzly jointer next to my tablesaw so I can reclaim some wall space. The probem is that the fence on the jointer is about 1.25 inches taller than the tablesaw so it will interfere.

The tablesaw is a Unisaw 52" on a Delta mobile base. I think I can raise the saw 1.5 inches and still use the base.

How do you suggest I lift the saw so I can install the spacers?

Will lifting it by the table using jacks affect the alignment of the saw?

Any lessons learned or suggestions are appreciated.

Jack

[Alden Miller]

A couple friends with relatively strong backs ought to be able to do it. I know it can be done with a powermatic so I am sure the Unisaw is manageable also.

-Alden

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jack.....I work on some very heavy medical equipments some of which use cast iron. I'd be a little cautious of lifting the the castings. My experience with lifting stuff by cast iron castings resulted the casting breaking during the process.

[Ray Bersch]

Jack,
A stacked washer/dryer (the heavy Maytag model) is not a cabinet saw, but here is what I did in a similar situation, which I had to accomplish alone. I simply (yea, right) tilted the machine back and slid the platform under it with pair of those teflon sliders positioned so they would be under the rear feet when they hit home on the platform - then I slid the machine on the platform and struggled to get the teflon sliders out from under the rear feet. You may need two people to do this with a cabinet saw but you may be able to find a judicial place to put a jact (with a 2x4 extension) under the table to lift it up slightly to get the sliders out. If you want to know how I slid the platform under the machine while holding it in the tilted position you need to send me $5 - well, ok, because you a an SMC'er here is what I did - in good ol' Rube Goldberg fashion I put an eye hook into the platform and ran a rope under the machine, looping the rope under my belt to hold it until I was ready and then gave it a pull - not pretty, but it worked.

I would suggest that you tighten up everything on the saw before moving it and then commit yourself to checking the alignment after the move anyway - that, to me, is a must.

Otherwise, try a pair of skyhooks and a block and tackle.;)

Ray

[Bart Leetch]

I don't know about your saw. Before I installed the fence & right extension table I put a approximately 3" high riser made of 2x with an edge banding that was a bit higher under my Unisaw by laying it on its back & setting the riser up against the bottom & lifting the bottom & nudging the banding with my toe under the back of the saw up to where the 2x was snug against the base of the saw & then going around to the top of the saw & setting it up right. The banding held the riser in place with the saw on top of it & the saw set right down onto the riser just where I wanted it.

[Kevin Post]

I'm not sure which mobile base you have under your saw so this will only work if you can disassemble the base.

Take the mobile base off the saw. Lift the front of the saw from the floor by rocking it back on the back edge. Lift it only enough to slide 2x4 blocks (or whatever you have) under the saw. Lift the back end by rocking it forward in the same manner. Then slide blocks under the back end. Add the spacers to your base and reverse the process by lifting one end, removing the blocks and lowering the saw onto the base.

Whatever you do, don't lift the saw by the wings.

I unloaded my Jet cabinet saw from my pickup and assembled it by myself. This is how I got it off the skid and and again to get it onto the mobile base.

[Jack Norfleet]

The base I have is the delta, which is a welded square, designed to fit the Unisaw. The only part I can disassemble is the entension that supports the table to the right.

The tubing of the base is about 3 inches high so I will have to clear that in order to get the spacers into the square. I may try to tilt the saw using the rails and put a separate spacer on each side instead of building a single platform and putting it in the mobile base.

Thanks for the warning on lifting the entire weight by the table.

Jack

[JayStPeter]

Jack,

I had the same exact problem, same saw, base and jointer. I made a frame out of 2x4s on edge. I even cut and sanded the curves to match the Unisaw base. I had planned on painting them black to match, but laziness won out and they are unfinished. There are already holes cut into the unisaw base where I bolted them to it. The biggest hassle was having to lay down the saw to bolt it on then stand it back up.
I bolted 2 2x12 pieces to the other end of the base and bored two recesses for the legs to fit into. It also made a convenient place to bolt my overhead guard.
I'm 6'3", so I like the extra height. But, I did not like the 8" jointer next to the saw. I did like my 6" there, but the 8" was too bulky and in the way.

Jay