Built-in Recessed finger pull

[Moses Yoder]

I am thinking of buying this router bit and having a CNC router shop route the pulls into my doors. THIS ROUTER BIT (http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~8/955.601-602~2) This would be very different from what the bit is meant to do according to the instructions. I would plung in, route an elongated hole pull then retract the bit. I would use the smaller of the two bits. This would be similar to the Lee Valley recessed pull which is not available in hickory. THESE PULLS (http://www.leevalley.com/US/Hardware/page.aspx?p=46394&cat=3,70806,43521,46669&ap=1) It would be built into the door instead of added on. My wife does not want any pulls to snag her clothes on. What think you? I am just in the planning stages now.

286772

[Kevin Jenness]

I've done just that with a similar bit in a hand held router with no difficulty. Makes for a reasonable no profile pull. Be aware that long fingernails will scratch up the finish in the recess.

[Ethan Melad]

Won't that make an irregular shape? That is, when you plunge you'll be driving the full diameter of the bit into the wood, but as you route the slot the recessed area will become narrower. Then you'll pull out with the full diameter of the bit again. So you'll end up with round ends where you plunged and a straight, narrower, section between them.

[Tom Giacomo]

I did something similar, put a bearing on top and used a pattern.

[Eric Schubert]

Ethan, that depends on how wide he makes the pull. If it's wide enough, it may have an undercut all the way around. Just plunge in the middle of the area to get cut, then move to the edges and route around the opening.

[Bruce Page]

It doesn't look like either bit is designed to plunge. You will have to route the rectangle with a conventional bit followed with the undercutting bit.

[Jamie Buxton]

It doesn't look like either bit is designed to plunge. You will have to route the rectangle with a conventional bit followed with the undercutting bit.

You're right, neither one will plunge straight into the wood. Well, they actually won't plunge more than a sixteenth or so. Then, the middle (which has no carbide) will bottom out. But when you're routing out a large area like this, you can plunge as far as the bit will let you, and then slide sideways. You net that sixteenth-worth of plunge. Then you plunge some more and slide back the other way, getting another sixteenth or so. You repeat until you get to the full depth you need. In actual practice, you just keep plunging pressure on the bit while you're sliding back and forth, and you get to where you want to go.

[Rick Potter]

I remember seeing cabinets done like that in the 70's. One problem they had was that the oil from fingers constantly opening them, or perhaps a cleaning agent, would somehow soften the finish, and it became sticky after a while. Kind of like oak edged tables in some restaurants where the edges are sticky.

I suppose it might depend on what the finish is, and what you use to clean the finger pulls.

Just a thought,
Rick P

[Ethan Melad]

Ethan, that depends on how wide he makes the pull. If it's wide enough, it may have an undercut all the way around. Just plunge in the middle of the area to get cut, then move to the edges and route around the opening.

ah, yes. thats true. but the OP said that he wants an 'elongated hole pull' so i assumed he meant just doing one pass rather than widening the pull to accommodate the bit.

[Lee Schierer]

Even if you bore a pilot hole for the center of the bit to allow it to plunge, the center area of the bit is going to leave a serious burn mark along the entire path because it can't remove the wood it touches and that wood will get very hot. You will also need a template and guide bushing to get uniform cuts because the bit is going to try to follow the soft parts of the grain as you make the cut. Accumulated chips in the recess may be a problem as well. I would certainly recommend trying your cuts on some scrap before attempting the cuts on a finished piece.

[Steve Jenkins]

I have used that bit for finger pulls but did it on the top edge of the drawer front. Face down on a router table with stops to control the length of the recess and multiple passes at full depth but moving the fence to get the needed clearance.