Freeing a face plate

[Lawrence Tarnoff]

I was turning some discs for a project today and attached them to the spindle using a 3 1/2 inch faceplate. It took all of my strength to dislodge the faceplate. There's a very thin plastic-like disc that resides between the faceplate and the headstock. Any suggestions on how I can make it easier to remove the faceplate? Admittedly, at age 68 I don't have all of the arm strength I had a few years back, but I'm in pretty good shape for an old fart.

Larry

[Fred Belknap]

Larry I think most faceplates have a wrench, you might try a longer wrench. Some lathes spindles are a little different than normal and sometimes chucks and I guess faceplates don't fit tight against the shoulder of the spindle and can get very tight.DAMHIKT When putting a faceplate on make sure it is completely on and doesn't spin tight when the lathe is turned on. I don't think the plastic washer helps much, I only use them on vacuum chucks.

[Dennis Ford]

I use a lube on the spindle threads instead of the plastic washer. "Never-Seize" is my preferred lubricant but ordinary grease would work fine if you apply it as needed.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

For dislodging stuck metal to metal parts, I found a quick sharp hit with a mallet on the wrench is much better than a lot of steady pressure.
Grease usually attracts dust, anti-sieze usually does not.

[Harry Robinette]

Lawrence
I use one of those Strap Wrenches for plumbing.

[Thomas Canfield]

I made a strap wrench using the plastic handle from Harbor Freight and a 3/4" wide x 42" leather strap from leather shop. I needed something to back a rough turned bowl off the worm screw, and the 42" strap allows me to loosen bowls up to about 13"D at which point there is usually enough wood to grab and get leverage. Occasionally I will add a piece of rubber shelf lining to improve the leather grip. I have the plastic washers for both mini and Powermatic 3520B, but do not use them. As said, clean face and threads and sharp rap usually will break the bond. PS - I started using the strap wrench about 8 years back for little 4"D or so bowls. Most of the normal strap wrenches only workup to about 6" or less.

[Lawrence Tarnoff]

Thanks for the suggestions. My face plate doesn't have the typical detents for a wrench -- it's perfectly round. I think I'll try the strap wrench approach, although my wife's handy jar opener didn't do squat for me.:)

[robert baccus]

Like Dennis replied a good lube is needed here. You can buy antiseizing compound at any auto parts store. All machine shops use it. It has a lot of aluminum dust and some fibers in it. It eliminates seizing and wear on the threads.

[Bruce Pratt]

Secure a couple of long carriage bolts through two holes on opposite sides of the faceplate with the bolts sticking out toward the tail stock. Put a long bar or board above one bolt and below the other. This should give you sufficient leverage to loosen the faceplate.

[Steve Speiser]

I had exactly the same problem recently. I used a large "channel lock" pliers on the faceplate body and it came right off.