Used Milwaukee 6373 wormdrive saw

[rick carpenter]

I picked up a Milwaukee 6373 wormdive saw this weekend. Probably made in early 80s but I can't tell exact date. It looks like it was taken care of well, but it's missing the front angle cut lever. If I can't get a replacement that's OK since I need a 9/16 wrench for it anyhow. I pulled off the hood, handle, sole, etc and cleaned it up some. I need to flush the oil, get a new guard return spring, do a little cord repair, and check sole/blade for square. What else?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

If it runs fine, put a good blade in it and make some saw dust!

[rick carpenter]

I flushed the oil, trued the sole/shoe, 'bandaided' the nicked cord, and got me a Demo Demon blade. Runs good! The blade angle lever and the depth set lever are the same part number but unavailable. I can move the blade angle lever to the depth set and live with that since depth will be adjusted more than the blade angle.

But... I'm having trouble finding a new guard return spring. The part number is 40-50-3780 which was replaced by 40-50-3785. Both retail(ed) at $10.10, with the major parts suppliers saying they are discontinued. Other suppliers want $12+ for shipping. The spring price is OK but the shipping is unacceptable to me, so I am hopeful some stock, or alternate model's, spring will work. I've exhausted the local hardware stores misc spring sets and none that fit adequately gave a quick enough return. So, any suggestions?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Rick, all the worm drives are a copy of sorts of the Skil 77, it's spring looks similar in the diagram and is $1.48. At that price, I'd be inclined to try one.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/skil-shd77-f012sd7705-worm-drive-skilsaw-parts-c-130_160_7480.html

[rick carpenter]

Thanks Steve, the spring I took out was about 15/16" long at rest and about 1/4" diameter. The Skil spring looks much longer both in the exploded drawing and the individual part listing, plus one end isn't the traditional loop. It wouldn't work if that was an accurate drawing of it. There's no guarantee that the spring I took out was original, but from the excellent-for-30-years-old condition of the saw I'd bet it was.

[Mark Bolton]

You'll be able to cut any spring of the same o.d. that's longer. Hardware store.

[jared herbert]

auto parts stores usually have a box of assorted springs. my local napa dealer does. you can rebend the ends to make different loops etc too. Jared

[rick carpenter]

I've tried parts store springs as well. For all the generic springs that fit, I'm just not getting as nice and crisp -- and therefore in my mind as safe -- a guard return action like on my about 10 yr old Milwaukee 6390 sidewinder. It has a longer spring, like on the Skil/etc, that returns the plastic guard rather quickly. I dunno, it's not 'slow' by any means so maybe this is just what to expect with an older saw that has a heavier aluminum guard. I'd just like to be able to use it and set it down without undue worrying about the guard. (I have a friend who set his sidwinder down not looking, with the guard jammed. It walked across his foot nearly severing two toes.) Maybe I'll disassemble the guard and clean out the pivot. Thanks.

[Mark Bolton]

I have two roofing saws that the guards get bound up on occasionally. I take the blade off, stand the saw on its side, and flood some lightweight oil on the bearing that carries the guard. After a few minutes run the guard a few times and it will snap shut like factory.

Don't over think it.

[Ed Loudermilk]

^^^This^^^
I've used my worm drive skillsaw to cut concrete many times, dry and wet and lots of wood in the past 24 years! When
The guard gets sluggish/slow I hose it out, literally, and oil the pivot point. Works like new!!!