Rust Hunt Finds

[steven c newman]

Was out and about today, and drove up to another favourite store. Not the store itself, as anything that finds it's way into the showroom has it's price jacked way up. Like a Stanley T16 #4 (VERY rusty) for $29?

Anyway, this is an old lumber yard store, converted to an Antique store. main building has the "showrooms" where are the "good' stuff goes. BUT, there is a barn beside the store....

Anything in the barn is very Cheap in price. An entire shelf full of handsaws. The entire row, several shelves high, and both sides of the aisleway, are full of old, rusty toys,....TOOLS, that's it, tools!

So, dug around and found a no-name 1/2" wide paring chisel, and this little saw286485yeah, yeah the chisel is a bit rusty,:eek: and missing the hoop. The saw has zero rust, and zero pitting. 26" long, straight backed 8 pointer. Oh the "money side?286486 medallion says Disston USA. There is a readable etch on the blade as well. Well, at least most of it is readable. Will have to go out and get a bottle of gun blue to bring the etch all the way back. Not sure about the model number, yet. For these to items, i paid $6 + sales tax.

Any clues to this little "gem" of a saw. Plate is as straight as they come. Might be worth the trouble to bring back to life??:confused:

[Judson Green]

Guessing a 7.

[steven c newman]

A little checking over on the Disstoian Institute site.....D-7 Lightweight pattern 1953 to 1955 era.

Checked the teeth on this one, LOTS of set to them. madellion is a steel one, but all the rest of the fasteners are BRASS???

I could get out the rasps, and make a true Lambs Tongue in the tote, IF I wanted to. Top horn has one small chipout. That is all the "bad" areas I have found. Will try it out as a crosscut saw tomorrow, have a 2x10 to cut to length....

Question: How would any of you re-finish the tote? Looks like it had a coat of black paint on it, at one time.

[Judson Green]

Last summer I found a 120 (basically a D8 with the wheat pattern carved in the handle) at a garage sale. The past owner had spray painted the handle green and was very generous with it too. I coated the tote with that orange looking and smelling striper and put it in a plastic bag, got most of it off. Yours doesn't look that bad to me. I'd probably either use as is or sand it and put on a light coat of linseed oil or shellac.

[steven c newman]

Went outside today and gave the saw a test drive286555Seemed to start nice and easy, but that idiot using the saw just can't seem to cut a straight line to save his286556It do cut a bit rough, more for a Carpenter than a cabinet Shop. Board is just a treated 2x I was cutting down for stair treads. Front porch has way too much of a first step down, at least for old folks like me. A few tapcons to fasten it in place will do. Operator got it in a bind trying to saw a line. Something in the way I was holding the saw might have done that. Might need a refresh of the teeth, but seems to do ok as is. All that has been done so far, clean the bolts, clean the money side of the plate. Plate is still straight, despite the operator's best attempts to the contrary....

[Joe Bailey]

Last summer I found a 120 (basically a D8 with the wheat pattern carved in the handle) at a garage sale.

It is the model 100 that is a D-8 with a chip-carved handle upgrade.

The model 120 "Acme" is a very different (and valuable) animal -- this is the "no-set" saw

[Judson Green]

It is the model 100 that is a D-8 with a chip-carved handle upgrade.

The model 120 "Acme" is a very different (and valuable) animal -- this is the "no-set" saw

Sorry my mistake

[Joe Bailey]

Judson

No apologies needed.
So which do you have? And how about some pictures?

[maximillian arango]

Just a question

Could the problem with the saw be the way its set and the saw it self could be pulling you that way?

[steven c newman]

It may just be "Operator Error", as a lot of the saws I "use" (abuse) seem to caost to the right. maybe holding it a little differently would cure that? Might stone to edges a bit, this thing cuts very rough, even for a Carpenter Saw. Started to get a bit "bindy" as i went across the 2x 10. I just let it find it's own way across. Cut decently, maybe just a stone on the sides of the teeth ( way too much set) And maybe a little file work? It seems to be set up as a crosscut saw. Handle did feel good, though ( no blister formed during the demo) maybe just soften the edges, and sand off the old finish. BLO/varnish blend to re-fresh it?

Purple 3M pad to clean the brass parts, and that steel Medallion with it's brass bolt. Saw is as old as I am, born "born" about 1953???

[maximillian arango]

Started to get a bit "bindy" as i went across the 2x 10.

Wax the saw and that should fix that issue I believe, going off readings here.

I thought there was a trick with a vise and paper as far as set goes maybe someone here has tried it. Just looking to learn from your experience since I'm refurbishing my first saw this week.

[Judson Green]

Here's the saw. I believe its a D100 like you mentioned Joe.

Steven, this is the one I cleaned up with orange striper, if ya look close you can still see abit of green in the carving. After striping I just sanded a little and gave it a few coats of linseed oil. I should mend the horn but...

Plate has seen better days but its straight and smooth, after sharping and set it cuts fine... actually its about due for a tune up.

286644 286645

[Joe Bailey]

nice, Judson.
If you have to have a broken horn, that's the kind you want. When you get your courage up, use a block plane to level off the top of the horn, so that you have a long grain to long grain glue joint. Here's (http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/restoring-a-handle-part-one.html) a tutorial you might want to check out.

You've got a lot of sharpenings left in that plate.

[Judson Green]

Not really about getting my courage up, Joe, but thanks for the link. Its about the way I hold the saw... probably wrong:eek:!

I ask this in another thread, I've already hijacked Steven's enough.