making socket chisel handle...

[eugene thomas]

I bought a paring chisel and need to make handle for it. Was thinking I could make mold of the socket, then make handle on my lathe. What would work for the mold or am I on wrong track?

[David Weaver]

You could, but you don't need to go that far. Just eyeball the socket, make something that you think is close and then check it and turn it to size.

But making a socket mould would be fine, especially if you have something handy that you could put calipers on - just get the lips off of the socket before you do something like cerrosafe or whatever else (many of those sockets have a sharp lip right at the top, and if they weren't made that way, they've often been hammered to such a condition).

[Mike Henderson]

I've made a bunch of socket chisel handles. David is right. Turn a taper that you think is close and then put it into the socket. Turn it a bit and remove it and you can see where it's rubbing. Put back in lathe and trim the rubbing part. Repeat until the whole taper rubs.

Of course, don't make the original taper too small. You can't add to the wood.

Mike

[Leo Passant]

You could try this method (http://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/2009/11/06/refurbishing-an-old-stanley-socket-chisel/).

[Derek Cohen]

I bought a paring chisel and need to make handle for it. Was thinking I could make mold of the socket, then make handle on my lathe. What would work for the mold or am I on wrong track?

There are three important measurements to take. The first is to obtain the internal diameter of the top of the socket. This will provide the dimension for the base of the tenon …

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_m7d3183fc.jpg



The second is to measure the diameter at the bottom of the socket, which will provide the dimension for the top of the tenon …
I used a drill bit of known diameter (in this case a 5/16”), which was inserted into the socket …

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_6d6b2991.jpg



Record the depth of the tenon, and transfer this diameter to a calliper …

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_f1f1c1f.jpg



The last measurement that you will require is the diameter of the “transition” (my term – the section between the socket and the handle. This will enable multiple handles to have the same dimension. Measurement was taken from a handle that I had already turned …

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_76f3582d.jpg



Wood used for the handles is West Australian She-oak.

After marking the body and tenon lengths, begin by creating the tenon. Remember to add a 1/16” for the gap between the socket and the shoulder of the handle. This is to take up any length lost as a result of the wood shrinking over time.

In the picture below I have created the base of the tenon. The tip of the tenon is turned next. This is pretty standard stuff so far.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_345ee55.jpg


Below is the completed tenon. The shape of the transition is created by following the fine of the tenon and leaving the thickness of the steel.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_m644d0d5c.jpg


Now remove the waste so that the handle is the same diameter as the transition.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_m55887cd2.jpg


Shape the curve at the base of the transition.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_7410f9e8.jpg


Square off the end of the handle. This end will have a curve added.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_25c7805e.jpg


Using a curved skew, shape the handle working from the hollow back.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_m78ccfc50.jpg


Here is the final shape with a finish added.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_m724741ec.jpg



Finish used is Shellawax (a favourite among Aussie turners).
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_1584ff9.jpg


The final tuning of the tenon-socket fit is achieved by pushing them together and twisting. If there are any high spots that cause binding these will show up as black marks. Remove these with a chisel and/or sandpaper ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_m3573bc2f.jpg



Final results ..



http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel_html_m500c6998.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dave Anderson NH]

In line with what David Weaver said, if there is a hammered or bent over lip on the socket it is probably on both the inside and the outside. Grind off both lips or your turned taper won't fit. Also check to see if the socket has a vertical inside seam, many makers including James Swan had the seam. You probably want to at least partially grind that down too. Don't grind it completely flush or you might end up with a weak seam where it was overlapped and forge welded.

[Mike Siemsen]

I cram aluminum foil in the socket. Pull it out, there is your pattern.

[Jim Koepke]

As others have said, this doesn't need to be over thought.

First make sure the socket lip is not deformed, correct it if it is.

Then using dowels or drill bits find the minimum diameter and depth. Next determine the maximum diameter.

Harry Strasil Jr gave us this trick:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?112339-Chisel-Handle-Socket-Taper-Jig

For me eyeballing and adjusting seems to work fine.

YMMV

jtk