First post, first bench

[James Caton]

Hi. Upon turning fifty I was seized with a strange but powerful desire to work with wood. (Maybe as distraction from life's next milestone, the colonoscopy). So after visiting this great site for awhile, I'm taking the plunge.


I'm building my first workbench from exotic, hand-selected Big Box pine. The plan is to stick to joinery and not use any metal in it. What I've come up with as a design calls for a lot of butterfly joints, but I thought I'd check in here for any advice or warnings anybody might have. Also, I've been reading about finishing ideas for bench tops. I think I've been persuaded that film finishes like shellac, varnish or even poly would end up being more trouble than it's worth. The consensus seems to be for oil topped with wax. I'm not looking for beauty here, I just don't like all the white of the raw pine. And I want to seal against moisture as well as possible. Has anybody here ever used Howard's Feed n Wax? Does that have something in it I wouldn't want? Thanks for any advice.
Jim

[Jim Koepke]

James, welcome to the Creek. You may want to include your location in your profile. You might have members in your area who would be willing to have you come by and look at their home made benches.

People all have different opinions about how a bench surface should be finished. Sometimes it comes down to the type of work being done. Some like raw wood, some like a high gloss finish, some want a satin finish and there are some who will intentionally rough up the surface. To each their own.

My suggestion is if you do not like the color of the raw white pine, tone it down with a stain more to your liking.

Unless you will be working outside moisture shouldn't be too much of a problem.

I use Howard's Feed n Wax often. It gets spilled on my bench and hasn't caused any problem I can see. On raw woods it can impart a golden color. Some was applied to a birch mallet recently completed in my shop and it gave it a nice golden glow.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

As someone who has done both, I can tell you that building your own workbench is considerably more painful and time consuming.

The hardest part is the preparation. Don't plan anything that takes you more than ten steps from a toilet.
You've been warned. FYI - The procedure is done when you're under the influence of excellent medications.

You should not be medicated, when working with lumber.

[James Caton]

As someone who has done both, I can tell you that building your own workbench is considerably more painful and time consuming.

The hardest part is the preparation. Don't plan anything that takes you more than ten steps from a toilet.
You've been warned. FYI - The procedure is done when you're under the influence of excellent medications.

You should not be medicated, when working with lumber.

Ha! Thank you, Jim. I could not have asked for better advice.
Jim

[James Caton]

Thanks, Jim. Out of curiosity, what did you do with your own bench top? And thanks for reminding to take care of my profile. I'm in Michigan. I was in your neck of the woods two summers ago, and it seemed to me about the best place to live in the country.
Jim

[Derek Cohen]

Hi. Upon turning fifty I was seized with a strange but powerful desire to work with wood. (Maybe as distraction from life's next milestone, the colonoscopy). So after visiting this great site for awhile, I'm taking the plunge.


I'm building my first workbench from exotic, hand-selected Big Box pine. The plan is to stick to joinery and not use any metal in it. What I've come up with as a design calls for a lot of butterfly joints, but I thought I'd check in here for any advice or warnings anybody might have. Also, I've been reading about finishing ideas for bench tops. I think I've been persuaded that film finishes like shellac, varnish or even poly would end up being more trouble than it's worth. The consensus seems to be for oil topped with wax. I'm not looking for beauty here, I just don't like all the white of the raw pine. And I want to seal against moisture as well as possible. Has anybody here ever used Howard's Feed n Wax? Does that have something in it I wouldn't want? Thanks for any advice.
Jim

Hi Jim

Your bench sounds more like furniture than a place to build furniture. I would omit butterfly joints and a film finish. If the boards cannot take a hammering and need reinforcement, then find something that can. Slippery surfaces make life difficult - indeed, on on of my benches I have finished the top with a toothed blade for extra grip. I like Howards, but not on a bench. It does depend what you want to do on your bench top - if you plan to glue there, then I would use an oil finish to make clean up easier. Otherwise it is just a work surface. To protect against moisture, seal the ends.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Evan Patton]

James,
Welcome. We have a bit in common, as I turned 50 not too long ago, and also had the desire to get (back) into making long boards shorter. I'm also starting on my first project since the rejuvenation--my bench. I'm still trying to decide between poplar and maple as a bench top material, but a good buddy of mine (with a lot more experience) told me he'd make his next bench out of pine/fir to save the creativity (and time) for projects and not tools, so you may be on a good trajectory. The other advice he gave me, however, is that he wished he had an adjustable-height bench, so I have a set of Noden Adjust-a-bench legs along with other hardware. Speaking of hardware, what are your thoughts on a vise?

Evan

[Brian Holcombe]

Hi James,

A few thoughts;

- start out with one of the established styles; Roubo , Scandinavian, ect.

- plan everything about your bench down to the hardware well before you pickup tool one.

- plan the size and height based on your height and the projects you build

- no finish needed on the top, IMO. As Derek mentions, seal the end grain. I finished my bench after first building it and my projects could practically slide right off the top if I tried to nudge them a bit. Now it's as it should be, FLAT and slightly rough, I left the planed finish on it second time around.

- if it were not for the scale of my projects (cabinets, ect) I would prefer a narrow bench to a wide one.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks, Jim. Out of curiosity, what did you do with your own bench top? And thanks for reminding to take care of my profile. I'm in Michigan. I was in your neck of the woods two summers ago, and it seemed to me about the best place to live in the country.
Jim

My current bench has a varnish coat on it. My next one will likely start out with BLO and turpentine.

This is a nice place to live. This country has many great places to live.

Your mention of using butterflies made me think of something I have thought about for my bench. One of my thoughts is to use a contrasting wood to inlay a ruler along the front edge. Maybe even put a second scale on it so it can be used as a centering ruler.

This can get confusing with three people in a thread all named Jim.

jtk

[Matthew Dunne]

Jim,
When I got started a few years ago, I used the plans here for a fairly quick and extremely sturdy bench:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/18985/still-dont-have-a-workbench-this-one-is-easy
They even have a free video series to walk you through it. With a router, a drill, and a circular saw, you can put this together in a weekend.

I used boiled linseed oil as a finish. It's held up fairly well and is easy to refresh.

Have fun!

[James Caton]

My current bench has a varnish coat on it. My next one will likely start out with BLO and turpentine.

This is a nice place to live. This country has many great places to live.

Your mention of using butterflies made me think of something I have thought about for my bench. One of my thoughts is to use a contrasting wood to inlay a ruler along the front edge. Maybe even put a second scale on it so it can be used as a centering ruler.

This can get confusing with three people in a thread all named Jim.

jtk

An inlaid ruler? That's brilliant! This is what I joined for. Maybe an inlaid T for squaring up?
Thanks again, Jim.

[James Caton]

Hi Jim

Your bench sounds more like furniture than a place to build furniture. I would omit butterfly joints and a film finish. If the boards cannot take a hammering and need reinforcement, then find something that can. Slippery surfaces make life difficult - indeed, on on of my benches I have finished the top with a toothed blade for extra grip. I like Howards, but not on a bench. It does depend what you want to do on your bench top - if you plan to glue there, then I would use an oil finish to make clean up easier. Otherwise it is just a work surface. To protect against moisture, seal the ends.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I hear you, Derek. Yes, cleanup is what I had in mind, along with getting the pine a little darker and keeping out the humidity. If sealing the ends will take care of the moisture issue, that certainly simplifies things. Thanks.
Jim

[James Caton]

James,
Welcome. We have a bit in common, as I turned 50 not too long ago, and also had the desire to get (back) into making long boards shorter. I'm also starting on my first project since the rejuvenation--my bench. I'm still trying to decide between poplar and maple as a bench top material, but a good buddy of mine (with a lot more experience) told me he'd make his next bench out of pine/fir to save the creativity (and time) for projects and not tools, so you may be on a good trajectory. The other advice he gave me, however, is that he wished he had an adjustable-height bench, so I have a set of Noden Adjust-a-bench legs along with other hardware. Speaking of hardware, what are your thoughts on a vise?

Evan

I'd love a vise, Evan, but the budget says it'll have to wait. When I get one it will be on the front--no room on either side. Until then, dogs and clamps should get most jobs done. The height of the bench has been on my mind too. Low is good for bearing down on things, but who can do all their work bent over? I've settled on 36", but I am going to look up those adjustable legs you mention. Thanks, and good luck with your own bench.

[Gary Muto]

James,

Welcome to the club. So are we Baby Boomers or Gen-X-ers. Anyway, I too would forget the butterfly joints. I have a modest bench that I treated with BLO when I received it and it stops the glue from sticking.

I'm planning to build a version of Bob Lang's 21st century bench which is a split top type. I recently moved so there has been a delay. A good thing about that style is that it could be broken down for transport. I think that is a great feature to help ensure the life of the bench. There are many designs out there that allow the bench to be knocked down. Bob's and actually the Veritas bench were my favorite designs.

[Andrew Bell]

Have you looked into getting a vise screw and making your own vice? A leg vice is very trendy nowdays and the only hardware that you would require is the screw. I think you would get more benefit from a vice than adjustable legs; a quick search shows screws for around the $35 mark.


I'd love a vise, Evan, but the budget says it'll have to wait. When I get one it will be on the front--no room on either side. Until then, dogs and clamps should get most jobs done. The height of the bench has been on my mind too. Low is good for bearing down on things, but who can do all their work bent over? I've settled on 36", but I am going to look up those adjustable legs you mention. Thanks, and good luck with your own bench.

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on treating the bench as a tool, for making furniture other people can use.

Google Joshua Finn workbench plans for an excellent alternative, to get started.
There's no requirement for a complicated bench, to get started.

Sometimes simple is best. (He holds things down by running screws right into the bench, where clamps can't reach.)

286403

[Randy Bonella]

My Bench is a Roubo 24" x 76" made out of reclaimed Doug Fir. Its a beast. I was able to get the wood for free so my only costs were the gallon of glue and the leg vise screw from Lake Erie Toolworks, I made my own garters for it. The only metal in the bench are the screws holding in the garter for the leg vise. Finished with BLO. I'm with others, you don't want it to slippery stuff will go shooting all over the place.

For what its worth link to my bench build: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?128346-Mostly-Neander-Work-Bench-Build-(Pic-Heavy)&highlight=

Having this bench changed my woodworking dramatically!

Good luck and have fun!!!

Randy...

[John Crawford]

To protect against moisture, seal the ends.


Since the topic has come up, what do you folks use to seal the ends?

[Randy Bonella]

Same thing as I covered the rest of the bench with, BLO. Well seasoned wood really doesn't need anything in particular. End sealing is most valuable and useful with wet green wood. One recommendation however is whatever you put on the top put on all sides to ensure as uniform moisture absorption as possible. This will minimize cupping and twisting, which by the way after about 3 or so years my bench flatness hasn't changed much.

Randy...

[Rob Luter]

My bench uses a base made from salvaged framing lumber and a top made from some salvaged maple butcher block slabs. It's all sealed with BLO and nothing else. After 5 years it continues to be stable.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2583/4103275307_f30a5080da_b.jpg

[Adam Cruea]

I finished my hickory work bench with simply BLO. It's down in my basement, and I have yet to have an issue with moisture causing it to warp or distort.

You can easily build a bench without metal at all. The only metal on mine are the vise parts. It's held together with dovetails, sliding dovetails, and pinned mortise and tenon joints. And glue. Lots and lots of laminated 4/4 and 5/4 hickory with copious amounts of glue.