Workbench leg vise options, parallel guide

[jeff vanek]

I'm in the process of building a roubo workbench with a leg vise. I see pictures with the parallel guide above the end stretcher and below. I'll be using a wood screw for the vise. For the people that have used a leg vise, is your parallel guide above or below? And would you change anything about it?

[Steve Voigt]

The traditional method is below the stretcher, so you can have maximum leverage. But if you are using a roller guide system, like the benchcrafted, you have to put it above (assuming you have stretchers running the long way) or you won't have anywhere to put the top roller.
I have a homemade version of the roller guide system, so mine is above. Works extremely well. I wouldn't change anything. For $50 and some scrap, I have a vise that is far more versatile than a face vise costing several times more.

[Paul Saffold]

+1 for what Steve V. said.

[Christopher Charles]

+2 on the leg vise with rollers.

C

[Robert Culver]

am working on gathering up the stuff for this

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/roubo-workbench-leg-vise-alternative-linear-bearings/

[Bob Glenn]

Just remember, placing the guide below the stretcher will cause you bend over further when setting the pin. Us old guys think about things like that.

[Steve Voigt]

Just remember, placing the guide below the stretcher will cause you bend over further when setting the pin. Us old guys think about things like that.

It's a good point. Right now, I have no interest in any of the pinless systems, but in 20 years, I may be singing a different tune.

[Jim Matthews]

I use a series of spacer blocks, instead.
They ride on top of the parallel guide.

No pins, and they're easy to index to the stock I'm clamping.
I used a bright red "drift" pin for my guide, and still couldn't find
it when I dropped it - it inevitably rolled under my bench.

The blocks don't fall off, and can't roll.

[Joe A Faulkner]

I placed mine above the stretcher - no regrets. The parallel guide was patterned after the plan for the LVL bench in Schwarz's "The Workbench Design Book": 2 7/8" tall with two rows of 3/8" holes, 1" on center. I've only been using it for a few weeks and have already crushed one 3/8" oak pin. I don't know if this was operator error or something that goes with the territory. I'm thinking of upgrading to a metal pin. If I had it to do over, I might consider 1/2" holes in the guide, going 1 1/8" oc.

One potential benefit of below the stretcher is you could run your bottom shelf from outside edge to outside edge of the bench legs, and have things resting behind the vise leg and not have interference with the parallel guide. I don't know that 10" of extra shelf space is so critical that I'd move the guide to below the stretcher on the next bench. I eventually plan on building a small cabinet to stow on the bottom shelf, so to allow easy clearance for doors or drawers the cabinet width will be the inside leg to inside leg dimension, but with an open shelf, the extra 10 - 12 inches might be nice.

[Michael Peet]

Yup, Steve nailed it. Mine has rollers and is located above the stretcher. There is way more than enough grip even with the reduced leverage of the shorter span. I would do it again if I were building another bench.

Mike

[Kurt Cady]

I found that by the time I sourced the components for the wheels, or bought them from benchcracted, that I was close enough to the price of the crisscross, that I just went for the the crisscross.

[maximillian arango]

am working on gathering up the stuff for this

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/roubo-workbench-leg-vise-alternative-linear-bearings/


Would you happen to have part numbers :)

[Robert Culver]

McMaster
98935A877 (http://www.mcmaster.com/OrdHist/OrdHist.aspx?reloaddefltresults=true#)
94815A112 (http://www.mcmaster.com/OrdHist/OrdHist.aspx?reloaddefltresults=true#)
2879T36 (http://www.mcmaster.com/OrdHist/OrdHist.aspx?reloaddefltresults=true#)
91081A042 (http://www.mcmaster.com/OrdHist/OrdHist.aspx?reloaddefltresults=true#)

the bearing without the flange is what he recommends later in the thread
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/30mmLinearMotionSystems/Kit12129

and the kipp hand wheel I got was ordered through fixture works
06271-4160XCP (http://www.fixtureworks.net/Home/OrderPage/tabid/58/partNumber/06271-4160XCP/Default.aspx?thumbpath=7|13|0|2)
bench crafted uses a 8 in hand wheel its 80 plus $ for a hand wheel from kipp so I went to a smaller handwheel a little over 6 inches
After talking to the engineers at kipp I found that there wasn't enough metal to thread the wheel for the rod so the threaded rod will have to be turned down to fit the wheel and groved for a key so you will need to have a link to a machine shop . I have a couple here local so im hoping some donuts and a little cash will get that job done! the links for the parts are actually in his tread except that hand wheel that took some phone call to figure out but the people at kipp and fixture works were great and very helpful!! good luck!

[Jim Sevey]

I'm and old guy- but a tall old guy. I added 4" of height and put the guide on top. Way more clamping pressure than I imagined. No issues at all.

[Andrae Covington]

I'm in the process of building a roubo workbench with a leg vise. I see pictures with the parallel guide above the end stretcher and below. I'll be using a wood screw for the vise. For the people that have used a leg vise, is your parallel guide above or below? And would you change anything about it?

I have one above and one below. The difference is only a few inches. Both have plenty of leverage and I have to stoop to reset them, so it's all about the same.

286323