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David Ragan
03-31-2014, 6:28 PM
Hi,

I had the bowed walnut. It is fine now. thanks.

The display case is for knives. Light duty. you have two small frames that will be set on offset knife hinges, opening in the middle. I have a set of those magnetic double latches from Lee Valley. No idea if that is the best idea. I suppose it will work. Any better ideas?

So-the rectangular door frames, walnut, are cut from square 3/4" stock, with a 3/8" rebate to house the glass. I looked on TAP Plastics, and plan to get some scratch proof acrylic, cause I may have to ship this to NC.

My question is this...What is the best way to secure the 'glass/plastic'? The idea occurred to me to just order a little smaller than what will barely fit in the back side of the frame. 17" by 18.5" will leave 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch clearance. Then just silicone in.

This seems to me to very crude and lackluster given the fine examples of workmanship I have seen around, but, hey-"It's only a hobby".....And, I used epoxy for the miter joints on the frames. (My dad was a pattern maker-shame on me.)

thank you for your help!

David

Loren Woirhaye
03-31-2014, 7:00 PM
Silicone works but you can also get clips the are fastened with a screw. The ones I have a clear plastic and have a step so the back of the glass is 1/8" inset from the back face of the frame. Thus you have to be careful to get the rabbet depth right as the clips are not adjustable, though shims can be put underneath I suppose, but it could get to looking not well done.

Glass shops may sell them. I think I may have bought them at a cabinet supplies warehouse.

steven taggart
03-31-2014, 7:17 PM
I would use the silicone, I used clips when I rebuilt an old china hutch and wished I didn't. The wood shrunk a tiny bit when I brought it inside, so now when the kids and I get rowdy in the house they rattle. Just don't use to much where they can't be replaced without tearing apart the doors. That's what caused the china hutch rebuild.

Ethan Melad
03-31-2014, 8:25 PM
i'd make some L-shaped clips that screw to the frame and put pressure down on the glass. or maybe you could use framing points with an acrylic or lexan panel? i'd avoid permanently affixing the clear panel in case it breaks.

David Ragan
04-01-2014, 6:31 AM
One of the problems that I'm having is that the small width of the frame doesn't allow for much room for error with screws, etc. I found a thin peice of silicone-rubber used for a CPAP mask that will do well to cushion the glass edge in a couple of places, then maybe a small L bracket to hold the glass against the frame.

Any other ideas are welcomed. thanks David

Mike Heidrick
04-01-2014, 7:17 AM
Could you use a tiny bit of the red colored backed 3M foam tape they use to attach body panel car parts?

David Ragan
04-01-2014, 7:28 AM
That is an excellent idea! Is that the same stuff that I get @ the big box store, pricey, 3M, and sticks like the devil? Will it last?

Lee Schierer
04-01-2014, 8:43 AM
I like the glass retainer strip material that fits in a slot. It is a bit of work, but it looks nice in the end and allows the glass to be replaced.286213 You can cut the grooves on your table saw before the door frames are assembled. I used it in this knife display case.286214