Do you ever change handles on your tools or tools on your handles?

[Doug Ladendorf]

OK, I will be buying my first bowl gouge and debating whether to buy a handle or make one. I have only had fixed handles on my tools, many of which I have made. However, after watching some of Stewart Batty's videos explaining the need to use the proper size handle I'm wondering if it's worth having the option. Not to mention that I could have two tools and one handle that interchange. Does anyone actually interchange tools and handles in practice?

Doug

[Dave Cullen]

There are metal handles that allow you to do that, but I don't own any so I can't comment on them. Personally, it looks like a waste of time fussing with set screws to change a tool. I have both home made and OEM wooden handles and the only time I've changed one is when it doesn't feel comfortable. Each tool has it's ideal handle for the job that it does, so I don't really see an advantage in swapping.

[Dennis Ford]

I agree with Dave.

[Dwight Rutherford]

I got caught up thinking it would be neat to have one handle for multiple tools. Tried solid aluminum with set screws, hollow aluminum with R8 collets, and wooden handles with inserts. Concluded ( for me ) it wasn't worth the hassle. When I want to switch from one tool to another, I want to simply put one down and pick up the other.
I can see where traveling with multiple tools could make one handle with many tool shafts convenient but I only turn in my shop so this is not an issue.
I believe Stewart Batty correctly is stressing proper tool handle "length" for various diameter ( 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, etc ) tools. The handle should be comfortable for your hands.
For me, wooden handles that I turn and fit work well. If unhappy with one, just make another.
Just my opinion.

[Reed Gray]

The only real reason I can see to have mechanical handles which allow you to trade out tools is if you travel with your tools a lot. Mostly it lets you break them down so they take up less space. I would not ever be comfortable with a scraper in a mechanical handle with a round hole, the proverbial square peg in a round hole. My favorite handles are straight cylinder wood handles, no bumps, humps, or lumps. I generally like them big diameter, 1 1/2 inch or so. I don't like the feel of metal handles at all, and some of the hose and rubber coated ones feel okay, but to me, wood just feels better. Making a handle to length isn't difficult. I guess the main thing to consider is how far off the tool rest are you going to hang. If you feel it starting to bounce, then move the tool rest, don't depend on having a really long handle. This is why I prefer curved bowl rests rather than straight rests. You can keep the rest closer to the work, and you need less leverage to control the handle and the cut.

robo hippy

[Thom Sturgill]

I made a bunch of removable handles for most of my tools a while back so that when the club does a demo I can take some with me and keep the sharp end tucked into the handle to protect it. I have a single long handle, an arm brace, and a captured boring system that all use the same three 3/4" boring bars. I use the bars in whichever configuration works at the time. I also have two of David Ellsworth's small (3/8" shaft) hollowing tools in adapters so that they fit in the same handles.

All of my regular spindle and bowl gouges have dedicated handles. The aluminium tube and cover cost less than $10 per. Actually, the plastic cover cost more than the metal. Skews, scrapers, paring and beading tools all have wooden handles for the reason mentioned by Reed.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I agree that changing handles is a bit of a hassle, but I have a pair of double ended Oneway gouges, so I have to swap them out. There are a few benefits to changing out handles as mentioned. More of a pain IMO. I do like my Oneway gouges though.

I do prefer real wood as handles. I even have dedicated wood handles on all of my McNaughton hollowing knives.

[Harry Robinette]

I use D.Thompson tools and handle and love both. I never cared for metal handle's till I tryed Doug's handle and now it's all I use.

[Brian Ashton]

OK, I will be buying my first bowl gouge and debating whether to buy a handle or make one. I have only had fixed handles on my tools, many of which I have made. However, after watching some of Stewart Batty's videos explaining the need to use the proper size handle I'm wondering if it's worth having the option. Not to mention that I could have two tools and one handle that interchange. Does anyone actually interchange tools and handles in practice?

Doug

I've never had more than one handle for a tool. I also don't usually keep the factory handles if I'm forced to buy them, I find them very inadequate. I've always chucked them and made new ones, never even found them worth hanging onto except for the ferrel.

[Eric Holmquist]

I must be the exception, but I prefer handles that I can swap tools in. I normally store my tools edge in when not in use, and have a few gouges for each handle. I have my go to gouges normally in the handle and my occasional use gouges in a drawer close at hand.

[John Keeton]

I started out with wood handles for my tools, but over time, I have switched to D-Way handles on many of my tools and enjoy them. All of my bowl gouges are in the metal handles, but several of my spindle tools and scrapers are still in wood handles. As Reed stated, some tools are not very compatible with the metal handles.

Like most others, I like being able to change between tools without having to change handles, so every tool has a handle. But, I do like the ability to acquire a new tool and be able to install it in a handle in seconds. In most situations, a tool can be removed from a wood handle quite easily, and a new tool installed. I like the convenience of the D-Way handles, and I like the feel.

[Dick Mahany]

I used to use dedicated handles that I turned. Lately, after buying several Doug Thompson gouges (which are becoming addictive), I use the Kelton handles with the ER16 and ER25 collets. I don't find myself changing the gouge in the handles too often for a given project, but when moving to another turning project that requires different tools, they are a real convenience. Another convenience is that when travelling, the gouges can be inverted and recessed into the handle for protection.

[Dale Bonertz]

I also must be an exception. I love the Kelton er collet handles, I use the ER16, ER25 and ER32 and no set screws to mess with. Serious tool also makes a similar handle. I use several gouges in a turning session and it so much easier and convenient to pull out a dull tool and pop in a sharp tool and keep on going. Once they are dull it is easier to sharpen tools (by hand or with jig) without a handle and you sharpen 6, 8, 10 or etc. and go back at it. Storage of multiple tools is also so much easier and convenient this way. Not to mention the traveling advantage. As mentioned some tools are nice with the handle that came with them (detail gouge, spindle gouge) so they stay with a dedicated handle but I don't have to many this way.

[Dick Mahany]

Once they are dull it is easier to sharpen tools (by hand or with jig) without a handle .............

That's a good point. I also find it easier and far more comfortable to sharpen fingernail profiles without a handle. The collets make that a snap.

[Harvey M. Taylor]

I use the Jimmy Clewes twistlock holders

[Stan Smith]

I have this handle which I've used once:

http://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Handle-Carbide-Tipped-Turning/dp/B0064OF7OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396366984&sr=8-1&keywords=Harrison+Specialties+tool+handle

I work in a limited space and it's just way too long for my space and lathe size (mini and midi). I only do small projects. I made my own handles and glued them on all 5 of my carbide tools.

I do have and use their interchangeable handle for my short pen carbide tool, but it stays on the tool since I only have one of their pen tools. I also agree that changing the handle is a hassle.

[Dan Forman]

I intially made wood handles for all my tools, but have since converted the most used ones to the Stuart Batty handle system, and love them. Kind of spendy, but they are easy to change (no allen wrench needed), and I like to be able to change handle lengths as appropriate. I have three handles of various length.

Dan

[Doug Ladendorf]

Sounds like a mixed bag, but I haven't been missing too much. Tight budget may decide for me but if I can swing it I my try adding a handle to the shopping cart.

For those who like wood handles, what finish do you use? I have been using rattle can lacquer but open to other ideas.

Doug

[Dwight Rutherford]

For wooden handles; blood,sweat & tears:)

[curtis rosche]

I have the long handle
http://www.oneway.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=62&Itemid=2

and use it with my D. Thompson tools. works geat, has the right amount of weight and size even when I hollow with a bowl gouge. Its great for sharpening to take it off, and the tool can be flipped around and held inside the handle for transport so your edge doesn't get dinged

[Lloyd Butler]

Most of my tools have their original wooden handles currently. I did get an 18" Hosaluk handle (similar to Oneway or Kelton) to use with various hollowing bars. The handle allows me to change the length of the exposed bar, changing the resonance of it if needed. My hollowing bars are all home made from 1/2" or 5/8" bar stock and this works great. At the same time I got a 3/8" insert from him as well for my smaller hollowing tools and put it in a wooden handle.

I have bought 1 Thompson tool, so it needed a handle and I got a Hosaluk 12" for it as that allows me to change the length of the exposed tool steel. Doug's handle block his tools from seating more and 2-3" in as there is a lip on the ends of the tool steel. Sometimes I want a shorter tool and the Hosaluk handle allows for that.

I can not say I prefer one type over the other, but with the after market handles, it is nice to be able to tweak the tool length if you need to.

Lloyd