Finished Shaker Clock

[Ron Brese]

Clock is finished.

The finishing schedule was quite involved. Sanded parts to 200 grit, 400 grit on end grain. (1) Applied a stain controller made from 2 parts tung oil finish mixed with 1 part lacquer thinner. Applied liberally and excess removed. (2) Applied Transtint honey amber dye. (3) Applied Minwax Provincial stain. (4) Sprayed two coats of 1 1/2 pound cut garnet shellac. (5) Sanded with 400 grit paper and rubbed down with maroon Scotchbrite. (6) Applied a light glaze of Sherwin Williams Fruitwood stain. (7) Sprayed two more coats of garnet shellac. (8) Let shellac cure for 3 days (9) Wet sanded with soapy water and 400 grit sandpaper. (10) Rubbed down thoroughly with #0000 steel wool. (11) Cleaned up with Old English scratch cover for dark woods..........at this point I was tired and was glad I was finished finishing.

Final assembly and installing the cleats for mounting the movement and shelf for mounting the coil gong happened the day after rub out. More on the blog.

Ron


http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t320/ronbrese/shclockfin1_zps583e9efe.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t320/ronbrese/shclockfin4_zps7aacd035.jpg

[brad jansen]

Beautiful work.

[Brett Robson]

Looks great! That's one of the nicest looking finishing schedules for pine I've seen!

[Pat Barry]

That's a pretty finish. I like the fruitwood look but the preappliction you did with the honey dye and provincial stain really add a lot of character.

[Bryce Adams]

Ron,

Really nice results on the clock. That finish is impressive on pine, but how did you ever come up with that elaborate finishing schedule?

Bryce

[Ron Brese]

Actually the fruitwood stain added only the slightest bit of color to the overall scheme. Bryce I made furniture for a living for 15 years and I did an enormous amount of experimenting in that period of time with different dyes and stain combinations. The overall color of this piece would have changed dramatically if I had used a different dye for the base color.

I've found that the amber dye works on many woods to give the completed finish a lot of visual actiivity. I did a walnut piece years ago and started with the honey amber dye and then wiped over that with a dark walnut stain. It was one of the best finished on a walnut piece that I've done.

I have to say that the garnet shellac has as much to do with the outcome of this finish as any other element, of course you need all the elements working together to achieve the result.

Thanks for the compliments,

Ron

[Floyd Cox]

That looks great, The finish is beautiful.

[Michelle Rich]

quite an impressive finishing schedule. Looks nice as a clock, but would also make a nice small cabinet. I'm lazy and use tea to stain. It reacts differently than commercial stain and needs no stain blocker and makes the wood pumpkin old world color. Add a year of house light and it looks 200 yrs old. Again, I am lazy!

[Ron Brese]

Michelle I developed these finishing techniques during a period of time when I was making furniture full time. Most paying customers want instant gratification and don't buy the "we'll start with this and in a couple of years it will develop the look we want". I guess that's the difference between building things for yourself or a paying customer.

The most important thing is actually building things. One problem that plaques woodworking is the over discussion of method. Mike Dunbar once told me that "woodworker" is just another name for "procrastinator". The point being that people tend to spend too much time mentally dissecting the process and too little time actually making things.

Ron

[Don Huffer]

What! No poly?
I love it. Nice to see fine finish on a fine piece. I think I used the same face and movement.