Bench Top Choice

[Stew Hagerty]

I am in the process of redesigning my workshop.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?215939-My-2014-Shop-Remodel

In the process, I will be building a new auxiliary bench. My plan is to make a laminated top with replaceable 1/4" hardboard as the work surface.

My question is in the lamination.

I want the top to be approximately 1 3/4" thick, or 1 1/2" plus the hardboard.

One way I'm reconsidering is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF
Two is one layer of 3/4" MDF and one of 3/4" Plywood
And three is 1/2" MDF, 1/2" Ply, and 1/2" MDF

I'm not planning on using any holdfasts in this bench, but I am going to install a wagon vise on the end with a corresponding row of dog holes.

Would there be any advantage or disadvantage as to one method or another?

[Charles Lent]

There is a brand new un-drilled 1 3/4 " thick 36" wide flat and smooth solid (heavy - probably 160+ lbs) wood exterior door for sale at my local Habitat store for $60 and it has been there for over 6 months. To me, it has "workbench top" written all over it, but I don't have the space in my present small shop for another workbench. I once built a workbench from an exterior door like this one and it was a great workbench. Unfortunately it stayed with my old house when I moved away 30 years ago and I'm still regretting leaving that workbench behind. Find one of these doors cheap, add the Masonite top and you will have a great workbench for the rest of your life. If the one you find has been drilled for door knobs, just trim that part off and make a slightly narrower bench out of it.

Some of the solid wood doors that were made for indoor use have MDF cores and plywood skins. These will also work OK as a workbench, but if you have to trim it down and expose the MDF core, just glue and screw a banding board around the table top to strengthen the table and keep moisture out of the MDF. You can even leave this band proud of the top to allow the Masonite top layer to sit flush within it.


Charley

[Dan Hulbert]

I guess the advantage of the MDF layers is mass and less expense. If you need the mass and don't want to spend alot, go with the MDF. If you want to be able to move the table, use the ply.

It alss ocurrs to me that, with the current state of plywood quality, MDF tends to be flatter and more consistent.

[Brian Hale]

My local Home Depot has 36"x82" solid core undrilled doors for $65. Very heavy.

Brian

[Stew Hagerty]

I guess the advantage of the MDF layers is mass and less expense. If you need the mass and don't want to spend alot, go with the MDF. If you want to be able to move the table, use the ply.

It alss ocurrs to me that, with the current state of plywood quality, MDF tends to be flatter and more consistent.

Exactly. This "bench" will actually be more of a "counter top", in that it will be attached to a wall. Once built, it's not going anywhere.

I want the MDF for its flatness and mass. However, MDF tends is not as strong as plywood. I am concerned about the wagon vise mis-shaping a purely MDF dog hole over time.

[Dan Hulbert]

Replace the MDF with hardwood in the area where you want to place your dog holes. Two strips, offset for two layers of MDF. Screw one to the top layer, the other to the bottom layer and where they overlap, drill your dog holes. I'm sure there are a multitude of ways to do this.

Another idea (I have no clue as to whiether it will work) might be to drill your dog holes in the MDF and then soak the holes with thin superglue.

[Stew Hagerty]

Replace the MDF with hardwood in the area where you want to place your dog holes. Two strips, offset for two layers of MDF. Screw one to the top layer, the other to the bottom layer and where they overlap, drill your dog holes. I'm sure there are a multitude of ways to do this.

Another idea (I have no clue as to whether it will work) might be to drill your dog holes in the MDF and then soak the holes with thin superglue.

I don't know why, but it actually hadn't occurred to me before... I can make square "holes" using hardwood and use traditional dogs. My bench has round holes so I guess I was just thinking in the round. Thanks Dan

[Judson Green]

My current bench is a solid core door. I used ¾" copper pipe to line the dog holes. Needed to make a custom drill bit, just ground a spade bit a little.

But a word of caution, I'm actually in the process of replacing the bench top just because I cannot flatten it (the bench) with a hand plane. Not just because of the copper pipe but due to the composite of the door. And afew other reasons.

[Val Kosmider]

Built a sort of "utility" bench a couple of years ago. Needed a stable, solid working surface from which to start building a 'proper' shop.

The top is a sandwich of two layers of 3/4 plywood, and a top surface of 3/4 MDF. It is heavy, flat, stable, and I have not had any problems with the bench dog holes 'wearing' out.

[Stew Hagerty]

Built a sort of "utility" bench a couple of years ago. Needed a stable, solid working surface from which to start building a 'proper' shop.

The top is a sandwich of two layers of 3/4 plywood, and a top surface of 3/4 MDF. It is heavy, flat, stable, and I have not had any problems with the bench dog holes 'wearing' out.

Ah, that's good to know. Thanks Val. I think that's what I'm going to do, except I'm going to use 1/2" because I am shooting for 1 1/2" total thickness plus the replaceable hardboard surface.

[Rich Riddle]

I would choose either options two or three and see the need for plywood. my bench has a sacrificial piece of hardboard on top. It doesn't look pretty but proves quite effective.

[Rich Riddle]

Just found a decent looking bench on the Internet with the hardboard top example. Much nicer than mine that is all painted and cut up.

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This guy said, "I needed a larger assembly table a few years ago, and used two layers of 3/4 MDF for the base, followed by a piece of 1/4” masonite as a replaceable top. The finished size is 40×80. It has held up quite well, and is far more solid than I thought it would be. The base and legs are all 3/4 plywood.
I did put a few crossbraces under the top to keep it from sagging."

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