A shoulder plane?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I defer to the knowledge in this forum for advice on a shoulder plane.

I am in the market for a shoulder plane to be used primarily to clean up tenons made with power tools. Sorry, I am not a purist.

My preference is to buy new. I don't have the patience or the desire to hunt at yard sales or pawn shops. The pawn shops locally have too much pride in their items IMO.

I am looking for one that is reasonably priced, works well and is meant to be a working tool rather than a museum show piece.

Your advice please.

Thanks in advance.

[Sean Hughto]

If you have the money, I don't think you can beat the LNs.
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/joinery-planes/shoulder-planes/

[Richard Kee]

A lot of us will not part with our LV medium shoulder plane. Order one now while free shipping is on.

Richard

[Tony Zaffuto]

I have a large LN, a small Preston and a medium LV. I use them in the order listed, and use the LN far, far more than I ever thought I would.

[Greg Ladd]

I have a medium LN that I like very well. It was purchased specifically for cleaning up tenon shoulders but I find more uses for it all the time.

Greg

[lowell holmes]

I have the LV medium shoulder plane. I would get the large one if ordering today. I use the router plane to dress tenons and such instead of shoulder planes.

[David Weaver]

Ken, the tenon shoulders or the tenon itself? (as in thickness?). The LV medium is a nice plane for cabinet sized tenons if you're going to use one, it's accurate, and it's got nice fixtures for a grip.

You're in luck in this case, there's not a lot of good used vintage shoulder plane type stuff out there - quite a lot of it is no match for what's made today. I think in most cases, though, cabinetmakers would've used chisels instead, thus the shortage of accurate vintage shoulder planes.

[paul cottingham]

I have a medium and a large LV shoulder plane. I honestly prefer the large one, and can't imagine woodworking without it. I find the handle on the LN shoulder planes hard to use. Bear in mind, I have bad hands, YMMV.

[Jim Koepke]

In my opinion it comes down to either the LV or the LN. The size depends on you.

In your location it may be difficult to get either in your hands before purchasing.

The LV has some adjustments/features the LN doesn't. I am not sure they are all that important or just more stuff getting in the way of doing the work.

jtk

[Jerome Hanby]

I looked at several before buying. I don't think any of the vintage models hold a candle to LV or LN. I got a deal on the LV, but I'm sure I would have been just as satisfied with the LN.

[Bill Rhodus]

I have the LV large shoulder plane and like it a lot, however, as I get older I find myself considering the purchase of a medium LV or LN to reduce weight

[Steve Southwood]

For cleaning up tenons i prefer this. http://www.lie-nielsen.com/block-planes/rabbet-block-plane-w/nicker/ Set at light pass and usually get the whole length at one time.

[Jim R Edwards]

Clifton also makes very nice shoulder planes.

[Chris Griggs]

If your main goal here is to trim tenon cheeks I agree that the LN Rabbet block is the cats meow. If you want something that will a large variety of rabbeting work and also tenon cheeks than an LN or LV large shoulder is probably the way to go.

I like using shoulder planes one handed but I find to that be a little awkward with the modern large shoulder planes (though certainly doable). I have an LV medium that use for most stuff and really like a lot, and I was about to pick up the LN rabbet block for wide stuff (e.g. cheekc), but ran across a good deal on 1 1/2 infill shoulder plane so got that instead. My and a lot of infills are wider and lower than the modern large shoulder planes and easier to use one-handed...sorta like a shoulder plane/rabbet block hybrid. Anyway long story short, if I hadn't found that infill I would have ordered the rabbet block for wider rabbeting stuff/cheeks and continued to use my medium for all other rabbet tweeking...I don't use any of them on tenon shoulders and prefer a chisel for that task...if your of a similar mindset when it comes to shoulders than I think that makes an even stronger case that a rabbeting block may meet your needs best.

[David Weaver]

but ran across a good deal on 1 1/2 infill shoulder plane so got that instead.

A disease that spread quickly.

[Chris Griggs]

A disease that spread quickly.

Indeed...Dave tried to buy mine off me, but a week later I was purusing Ebay and found the identical slater shoulder plane also for a pretty good price and sent him the link...so now we are shoulder twins. The proportions of some of the old infills shoulder planes are, to me, much nicer than the modern large shoulder planes...YMMV. I'd love to see LN or LV produce a shoulder plane of similar proportion.

[Christopher Clark]

Spent today fitting tenons with my LV medium. It works great and feels comfortable in my hand.
Someday I'll get a real bench!
286145

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

For cutting the end grain portions of the joint, I really love a wide chisel.

Chris - you got to share some pictures!

[Mike Henderson]

I've used the LV medium and the Record (which is the same as the LN). The LV is a LOT more comfortable.

But if you want to shave a bit off the tenon itself (rather than the shoulders) a chisel, a rasp, or any plane where the blade comes all the way to the side, like a rabbet plane, is good.

BTW, if you overshave (or just make the tenon too small), a good way to add to the thickness of the tenon is to glue some veneer to the tenon.

Mike

[Ron Bontz]

Jim beat me to the quick. What about these Cliftons? Anyone have one to share thoughts on?

[Anthony Moumar]

I have a HNT Gordon shoulder plane that I really like. It's quite a bit lighter than the metal shoulder planes I've used which might be an advantage or disadvantage. I found it easier to use one handed. It cuts through end grain extremely well considering the 60 degree bed angle. I also find it useful for cleaning up rabbets because it leaves a very clean surface. They are in similar price bracket to the LV and LN shoulder planes. They also look very nice.

[glenn bradley]

Another LV medium user here. I find it very comfortable to use and will pick up a large version if/when the opportunity come along. The movable knob setup, smooth adjusters and set screws on both sizes really work for me. I have seen other posts where folks have gotten a LV medium shoulder and just can't find a way to hold it that is comfortable. Like any hand plane, the comfort and confidence comes from a good match between tool and user. The LV medium shoulder plane happens to fit me very well.

286156 . 286157

[Jim Stewart]

One more vote for the LV. I am sure that the LN plane would be nice. get the medium. you are just cleaning the tenon.

[Chris Griggs]

Chris - you got to share some pictures!

These are the ebay photos.

Mine

286158

and Dave's


286159

Mine has a replacement wedge and a replacement iron which is part why it was such a steal. Dave spent about $80 more on his than I did on mine but his was pretty much ready to go. Mine unfortunately needs a little work. The replacement iron is either very poorly hardened or totally unhardened, and the bed is a little off. Once I found Dave's on ebay I also reshaped the wedge to look like the original wedge on his. I still need to harden the iron, and I may or may not work on truing up the bed, but really these are both pretty minimal things to do (gives me an excuse to finally get setup for heat treating), and even with the issues its a fantastic plane to use...love the feel in the hand.

Like Dave said, these old infills can have some issues, so I wouldn't reccomend them, unless you know enough about planes and are prepared to do some troubleshooting.

If we cut out the infill option my vote is the LN rabbet block for cheeks, and either the LV medium or LN 41 (smallest of the preston style) for most other shoulder plane work. My hunch is that the Kens main goal here is fitting cheeks, so I think the 60 1/2R may be a good bet for him....the LV skew blocks are very nice too, but I think something that is open on both sides ends up being a bit handier in the long run.

[Derek Cohen]

Chris, that is a nice looking infill. But ....

I don't really need anything to fit M&T joints. Mine are perfect off the saw .. :D

OK, I don't believe that myself. :rolleyes:

I prefer a shoulder plane to fine tune shoulders. Generally they just need a fine shaving or less, and this is easier to do with a shoulder plane across the grain, working to a knifed line.

Tenon cheeks are another matter, and I may use whatever is to hand, often a chisel or a rasp, or a router plane if I am way off and need to regain the parallel.

Occasionally I do grab a plane for tenon cheeks. I have the LN rabbet block plane, and this works well. Better is the LV skew block plane. The skew just feels less effort planing across the grain.

With regard shoulder planes, I have the Veritas Small and Medium shoulder planes, which I received from Lee Valley for evaluation. These often get pulled out for more than just shoulders - they are indispensable for tuning rebates as well as some joinery. The Medium has long been a favourite - great all rounder - but the Small has just about taken over. It is the ideal size for most shoulders and is the easiest to use one-handed. In some ways it feels like a small block plane. The Medium and Large shoulder planes are better at planes awkward places owing to the angled knob. It makes a difference.

When I was in Canada a year ago I purchased the Large shoulder plane, as this can really do it all - shoulders and cheeks. Its heft makes lighter work of hardwood end grain. And it has essentially replaced the large 1 1/4" infill shoulder plane which I have had for years - note all you infill users!. The infill is one I restored and it has excellent performance, however the Large Veritas is easier to adjust and more comfortable to hold and use.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/Renovating%20an%20infill%20shoulder%20plane_html_m 45ebca0a.jpg http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/Renovating%20an%20infill%20shoulder%20plane_html_7 4b00c07.jpg

Yes, I know - I have altogether far too many planes!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chris Griggs]

Chris, that is a nice looking infill. But ....

I don't really need anything to fit M&T joints. Mine are perfect off the saw .. :D


Well I should hope so...mine certainly are...I thought this thread was about what plane to get that will look coolest on the shelf...hence my fondness for the infill ;)

[David Weaver]

I had the LN large shoulder and ended up going the other direction. There literally was nothing that I used it on where a chisel, float or (wooden) rabbet plane isn't more appropriate.

Chris does bad things by sending me links to ebay auctions, and a friend gave me a slater bullnose, so matching it with a shoulder plane (that I'll probably also never use) seemed like a logical choice. I can say for sure that the infill shoulder at 1 1/2" wide has more lateral stability (than the large shoulders) and a much better one-handed feel. It pained me a little bit to let go of the LN 73 because it's so precisely made and such a nice piece of gear, but selling it for something much more inspiring and a little less precise reminds me that I don't need the superfine adjustments because it gets one lost in the weeds of trimming tiny amounts off and wasting time - something that drives me batty mid process.

[Chris Griggs]

Chris does bad things by sending me links to ebay auctions.

Said the pot to the kettle...

[Prashun Patel]

I have the LV medium shoulder. It works perfectly. The adjustment is great. The little rotate-able knob is also a nice-to-have.

I DO, however, wish I opted for the large one. The medium has nice mass, but even more cowbell would be wonderful. I would also appreciate the slightly wider width of the large one's blade.

My reasoning for getting the medium over the large was that the large might be unwieldy. But having used this one for a while now, I don't believe that to be the case; in fact I believe a massier, larger plane is easier to register and keep flat and move controllably than a smaller, lighter one...

[Derek Cohen]

..I thought this thread was about what plane to get that will look coolest on the shelf... ;)

Of course it is Chris! ;)


I had the LN large shoulder and ended up going the other direction. There literally was nothing that I used it on where a chisel, float or (wooden) rabbet plane isn't more appropriate. ..... I don't need the superfine adjustments because it gets one lost in the weeds of trimming tiny amounts off and wasting time - something that drives me batty mid process.

And David, you get the award for the most masochistic woodworker! :D

Actually, anyone who uses a bullnose plane on a shoulder is a masochist!

Worse still, is anyone who restored a Slater bullnose. Not for the faint hearted: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/SlaterBullnoseRestoration.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Weaver]

Yeah, it looks a lot like that! (the bullnose), but more so like the before and less like the after, and with an unmarked iron. (actually, the first iron I had the chance to make). I have actually used it in "real woodworking", but it's not something I'd use much. I have not used it cross grain -I'm not man enough for that! Like is often more convenient on wedged planes, I tend to let it eat and don't give it tiny thin shavings to go with.

Probably the difference between me and most other folks with shoulder planes is that I don't do much cross grain work with a plane - always a struck line and a chisel instead, and no tuning of the line. Wherever the line was struck, that's where the cut ends up. A thin shaving and precision of the new planes is nice to have cross grain, but in long grain it's not so necessary.

Well, and taking a big bite out of cherry is a lot easier than taking a big bite out of karri.

I haven't got a clue where I'll use a slater shoulder plane. As I've admitted before, I'm in the middle of very slowly building kitchen cabinets, all of the frames are M&T and I am so smitten with a plane bed float that I can literally check the thickness of a tenon with a caliper and get within a couple of thousandths of a landing point without checking. E.g., on a 1 1/2" tenon 3/4" tall, it's literally one stroke of the float per thousandth of tenon thickness. If it's a hundredth thick off of the saw and a quick check of the mortise confirms it's not close to getting in, 10 strokes makes it exactly what I had intended with marked thickness. I am for fit off of the saw, but I'm always somewhere between there and a hundredth fat.

[Derek Cohen]

David, I agree - floats are excellent as well.

So many choices. I must admit that I do not have a favourite - it all depends on what is closest. Many ways to skin a cat.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brent Ring]

I have the Wood River Medium plane. It works for tenon clean up very well!

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I can't be certain, but I think I saw that plane, Chris, watched it, and forgot to bid.

[george wilson]

A rabbeting LN block plane might be a good candidate. Easier to hold,and does the same job. Plus,the cut is wider. Being a plane pig,I have all 3 LN shoulder planes and the rabbet block plane,too. Plus the planes I have made.

[Prashun Patel]

George, I'm curious about what you reach for most of the time: shoulder or rabbet. Rabbet planes get a lot of press to the effect, "it's a good compromise but ain't no shoulder plane".

[Chris Griggs]

I can't be certain, but I think I saw that plane, Chris, watched it, and forgot to bid.

Thanks for forgetting to bid! You probably saw either mine or Daves...they are not rare, but there are never a ton of infill shoulder planes on Ebay at any given time, especially reasonably priced ones. I've been watching for them for a couple months now.

[Jim Koepke]

Glenn,

That looks like a comfortable grip but it also looks like you could bang up the tips or your fingers on a long tenon if you were cleaning up a shoulder. :eek:

jtk

[george wilson]

A rabbeting block plane is not real tall,so it might be a problem if the wood is thick enough to hit the fingers while planing tenons with it. I'd think it would be o.k. for most tenon work. However,I'm not a furniture maker,so those who do a lot of mortise and tenon work might give better advice,Prashun.

[Chris Griggs]

A rabbeting block plane is not real tall,so it might be a problem if the wood is thick enough to hit the fingers while planing tenons with it. I'd think it would be o.k. for most tenon work. However,I'm not a furniture maker,so those who do a lot of mortise and tenon work might give better advice,Prashun.

In building my new workbench recently, I used a Record 73, and an infill similar to mine, and a the 60 1/2 R in fitting the tenons to the top...Paul, I who I'm working on it with has all 3. George's point about it being low is exactly why I looked for an infill before getting the 60 1/2R...I wanted some height, but also more width and not so much height as a 73.

That said, I did use the 60 1/2R extensively to fit the workbench tenons (with 1/2" shoulders) and found a comfortable grip with my hand a little more to the outside of the tools body, that worked very well when I didn't have enough clearance to keep it on top (and for 99% of tenon work I would have enough clearance. In doing this I also found that in use I sometimes pushed the plane and sometimes pulled it...prior to to working on this bench and using these 3 planes side by side I was planing on getting an LV Skew Block. I have also used the LV skew block and really like it, but realizing how important being able to cut from both side was to me made me change my mind to get either an infill or the 60 1/2R...since I found an infill for a good price, and do think its added height over the 60 1/2R is somewhat advantageous that's what I got, BUT if I hadn't found one I definitely wouldn't have hesitated to get the 60 1/2R for tenon cheeks...I find it much nicer to use for that purpose than a 73...of course, I've seen other people say the exact opposite, so as always YMMV.

I'm not, btw, saying don't get a modern shoulder plane. I love my LV medium and for an all arounder definitely think an LN/LV med or large is the way to go...I'm just saying there are things that I like a little better specifically for tenon cheeks. I'm curious to here back what Kens main goal is for this purchase.

[Jeff Ranck]

I love my LV shoulder plane. I have the large one and Love the way it fits my hand. I really like the knob arrangement and find that I can use it two or single handed, depending on what I'm doing.

Not sure if that falls into your "reasonably priced" criteria or not.

Jeff.

[Sam Joyce]

I had the Veritas medium and actually sold it to get the large (cyber monday deal). Don't regret that at all as its more comfortable to use two handed if need be and has a blade width approaching that of a rabbet block. To me its more versatile than a rabbeting block as its taller and therefore keeps your hands away from the shoulder on tenon work and balances better for traditional shoulder work.

[Jim Matthews]

I owned, and sold the LV shoulder planes.
I found them an ill fit, with my hand and prone to rust.
(Like anything that's cast iron, in my dank shop.)

I have, and regularly use the Gordon 3/4" shoulder plane.
I prefer the feel of the wooden plane body, as it has no
rough edges, or narrow surfaces.

I feel like I can bear down on it, for maximum control.


If you keep the sides of the iron properly honed, it's really useful.

It's also the kind of plane that will cut you without mercy.

Note that getting these blades sharp involves three edges.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/47159/get-an-edge-up-on-your-shoulder-plane/page/all

[Cody Kemble]

I have the LV large shoulder plane and find it easy to grip. I really wish I had it when I did all the mortise and tenon joints for my daughter's crib.

[Kees Heiden]

To be sure Jim, I don't think you should sharpen the sides of your shoulder plane blade. It shouldn't cut into the sides of the rabbet. The sides should be straight of course, slighty extending beyond the body of th eplane and the corners should be sharp. But the sides are blunt.

The article in the link you provided doesn't mention sharpening the sides either.

[Chris Griggs]

For those with the Large LV (its the one modern shoulder/rabbet plane I haven't tried), I'd be curious how you like it when its held overhand in one hand for trimming tenons like in this photo of the LN below.

286217

The main reason I went with an infill (and was considering the rabbet block) is when I've used both the Record and LN 73s like this I didn't care for the grip...it works for me when gripped like this and I'm sure I or anyone else would get use to it (as we all do with any tool), but for me if I'm going to spend a lot of money on a nice tool I need to love it....well that and between my wooden rabbet plane, my LV medium, and my LV skew rabbet, I was pretty much covered for anything one would use a shoulder plane for other than longer tenon cheeks (and did/do have other ways to trim those) so my goal was to get a more ideal tool for that task vs an all arounder like a large shoulder plane.

Even though the LV/LN grips are very different when used two-handed given the similar proportions of the plane I figured I might feel the same about the LV as I do about the 073 when gripped as above, where as the low profile and shorter body of the infill I ended up with lets me grip it more like a block plane.

Anyway I've got what I need and am have no intent of buying another shoulder plane at the moment, but I'd still be curious to know/see if those of you with the Large LV grip it similarly to the photo above when trimming cheeks and if so how this particular grip feels on that plane. On shorter cheeks I have used my LV med in such a grip and found it comfortable but like my newly acquired infill it to is a shorter and lower plane than the large. Though I don't know for sure I imagine that cheeks will be at least one thing Ken will use the shoulder plane for so this one-handed grip is likely an important consideration for him as well.

[lowell holmes]

I like a router plane and joinery floats. My 1" wide LN bevel edged chisel does pretty well also.

I have the 63R, but for some reason don't use it much.

[Brian Holcombe]

I use my shoulder plane all the time. I've been doing a lot of wedged through tenons and fine tuning the tenon is somewhat critical to having it look nice on the out facing side. that being said I do not use a shoulder plane for that, instead I use it for trimming the shoulders.

i used a router plane, made all of them the same then cut the mortises to where I wanted them with a chisel. If I were draw boring these and they were not throug tenons I doubt I would feel the need for this type of percision, but it still does not hurt.

[paul cottingham]

Chris, I have the LV large shoulder plane, and use it gripped like you show, in fact that grip is basically the only way I hold the plane, regardless of use. I way prefer it to the Record style shoulder plane as the Record style is very hard on my hand. Mind you, I bought the LV from a friend who bought the LN large shoulder cause he prefers it.
I have large hands, so that may factor into my preference as well.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Joel Moskowitz recommends a similar grip, but in a pulling fashion:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/blog/13/title/How%20to%20Hold%20an%20Adjustable%20Shoulder%20Pla ne

[paul cottingham]

Doh. Pulling! I have to try that, it seems so obvious.

[Chris Griggs]

Thanks for the feedback Paul. That's useful to know. Yeah, Joshua, I've pulled the 73s before...actually in use I like to be able to push and pull, but I mostly push with that grip. I more or less hold my infill that way too, but it just feels more comfortable on that plane. Something about the shape or edges of the 73 feels harsh on my hand when I grip it like that, and my fingers just never quite feel like they know where to wrap. Shoulder planes, much like block planes, seem to be one of those things that are exceptionally personal and preference seems to vary a lot from person to person (even more so than most tools).

[glenn bradley]

Glenn,

That looks like a comfortable grip but it also looks like you could bang up the tips or your fingers on a long tenon if you were cleaning up a shoulder. :eek:

jtk

Yeah, holding it up in the air and trying to shoot the picture with my left hand made for a result that is only an approximation. I would definitely whack myself if I were to let my fingertip poke through and passed an adjacent surface :D. The rear knob angle can be adjusted and locked down but, I find that in use I leave it snug but movable. It just sort of changes angle with my grip as I am working around the material at hand. This is the feature that make the fit very comfortable for me. Without this feature my grip would be more like I use on my bullnose . . . which I can't even really picture in my head . . . I just do it :confused:.

[Gary Muto]

Ken,

I have the LV Medium Should Plane and really like it. I have the large also but I find it a little heavy. The medium fits like it was designed for my hand and I don't have small hands.

I haven't tried the other shoulder planes, except the Stanley #92 and I would not recommend that. No offense to anyone but it is a toy by comparison. I'm sure that the L-N planes are great, they just didn't look comfortable to me.

[Jim Matthews]

To be sure Jim, I don't think you should sharpen the sides of your shoulder plane blade. It shouldn't cut into the sides of the rabbet. The sides should be straight of course, slighty extending beyond the body of th eplane and the corners should be sharp. But the sides are blunt.

The article in the link you provided doesn't mention sharpening the sides either.

When I took a handplane and molding plane course with Phil Lowe and Matt Bickford respectively
they both honed the sides of shoulder plane and rabbet irons.

To clarify, the sides of the blade barely protrude beyond the sides of the plane body, but they do contact the
side of the shoulder or rabbet they cut, and they do shave off material as they go.

Old Street tools also recommends that the blade be slightly "relieved" which I take to mean a back bevel.

My experience is with both a skewed rabbet and the HNT Gordon version, which is perpendicular to the plane body.
With a sharp aris on either side, I don't have either the wandering into the cut as cautioned by Old Street,
or the stepping of a rabbet as mentioned by the inestimable Matt Bickford.

After setting up the primary edge (including stropping) I give both sides a quick pass on my finest stone
to make sure the sides shave off the shoulder as I go. This makes a tight corner that need not be
cleaned out afterwards.

It works for me, and I'm sticking to it.

http://musingsfrombigpink.blogspot.com/2012/09/rabbets-with-rabbet-plane.html
http://toolerable.blogspot.com/2012/09/spruced-up-rabbet-plane-video.html

[Kees Heiden]

Interesting! Wandering from the line can certainly be an issue. Not a big problem because you can rotate the plane over 90 degrees when you reach the bottom to correct any errors in the sidewall. But preventing it to occur in the first place isn't a bad idea of course.

One little problem I see with your sharp edges. I like to use my fingers on the sides of the blade to control how far it protrudes. Do you really make it sharp with a bevel or more like a scraper blade?

[Jim Matthews]

I was taught to make it so square to the cutting edge as I'm able.

The Old Street tool guys recommend a slight relief angle.
So long as it's the front edge of the blade in contact,
Matt Bickford asserted that the blade should track straight "down" the groove.

It's important to note that he uses a skewed rabbet plane, and that may behave differently than my Gordon, which has the blade perpendicular to the plane body.

In either case, I go through a lot of bandaids if I try to use the fingers of my left hand as a fence.
I tend to hone the right side of the blade, only as that's the side that faces into my bench.

I have not tested this supposition, but it's the way I was taught and it seems to work.

I highly recommend Matt Bickford's book "Mouldings in Practice" which (while pithy) is a compendium of information from many sources,
with simple diagrams and a method to follow.

It's important to note that the selection of wood used for making the mouldings is VERY important.
That's something MB stressed repeatedly - not all lumber is appropriate for this purpose.

[Frank Drew]

I looked at several before buying. I don't think any of the vintage models hold a candle to LV or LN.

Jerome,

Do you include Norris, Spiers, Arthur Price, etc., among the vintage shoulder planes that don't hold a candle to LV or LN?

[Chris Griggs]

Where's Ken? Ken, what did you or are you thinking you will end up getting? I need a resolution to this thread!

[Gary Muto]

I think he got WAY more information than he wanted or needed...
I'm interested to find out what he decided as well.

[Cody Kemble]

Lots of information and nothing resembling a consensus whatsoever.

[william watts]

I use a Stanley #93, made in England, that works very well for trimming tenons. I don't know if this plane is still available but a Stanley Sweet Heart #92 is listed in the w.w. catalogs at a more reasonable price than L.N. or L.V. The #93 has a 1in. blade not sure about the 92.

[steven c newman]

I have been know to take the depth stop off of my Wards #78, lay it on it's side and use it as a BIG shoulder plane. I will even tuck the nicker out of the way. The side on the right hand of the 78 is flat. Just lay it down and push it along on it's side. The outside edge on mine is flat and square, no relief. Besides, I can always move the iron to the forward spot, and use it as a bullnose to get into a corner.