First Time Post - Large Hollow Form Feed Back

[Tim Roach]

Hi,

I am a long time reader of posts but never posted myself. I like to turn large hollow forms and need some input on one I am working on at this moment. In the 2nd picture their are two forms the on the left is Cherry and is 32" tall and with this I wanted a very simple form that showed off the grain. I like this one though opinions are welcome. The one on the right is spalted Beach 27" tall and I just not sure about the neck length so I am looking for thoughts on it. I can cut it down though will loose the lip as their is not enough thickness in the neck. Both are approximately 3/8th in wall thickness. For those interested I use what is now called the Carter XL but got it from Brian McEvoy at One Good Turn some time ago and use a very large Clarke steady rest when hollowing. I have a Vicmarc VL 300 with a 50" Bed. I generally leave about 2 inches of log at the bottom to maintain some weight at the bottom and it does not become top heavy. for those of you wondering about the shinny spots it is CA glue to try and prevent cracks when drying.

The first Image I just added is spalted Sycamore 27" sprayed with 10 coats of Target water based Lacquer and polished to 12,000 grit. I have yet to remove the foot for the faceplate.

Thanks Tim

[Dennis Ford]

Amazing size pieces, the Sycamore piece is really beautiful and the Cherry vase will be very nice also. The large neck on the Beech vase does not seem right to me; I would have preferred it to be concave instead of slightly convex. It does seem a shame to cut it off after investing all that effort but the most important thing is that you be happy with it when done.

[Brian Brown]

I really like the first pic piece, (after the foot is removed). On the other two pieces, the cherry is nice but I would like to see the neck in tighter like the finished piece, and the base diameter a bit smaller. I'm not sure on the beach, but the base seems incongruent with the rest of the form. The height of the neck is about 1/3 the overall height, which is good. The change from a long sweeping curve on the bottom to a more straight sided form at the top somehow doesn't seem to go together. Now on to the more important matter. A shop as clean and organized as yours is just truly sick in my book. As penance, you should be required to come clean and organize my shop. I'm waiting. :D:D:D

[Dennis Nagle]

wonderful work Tim!!! I am set up to turn large pieces too but have been working and selling the little stuff. Can you tell us about the wood blanks? Did you turn them then let them dry or soak them or what???

I agree with Dennis, I think it would look better concaved. Also I would size it using the Fibonacci formula to the lower portion height wise, then size the width using the same formula to the widest part of the lower portion.

[Tim Roach]

Dennis,

I turn whole logs end grain. I try my best to look for pith in the center of a log with no knots but very rare and not happened yet. What I normally do is move 1 may 1.5 inches either side of the pith to come up with the largest diameter I can. I usually turn the outside first cover it with a plastic bag and do the hollowing the next day. I have done it all in a day but the quality of my work suffers and I usually blow something up. When done I CA the pith inside and out and any knots or edges where cracks could form. I then place it in a plastic tub and fill it with Pentacryl and let it sit at least a week. Why a week I travel most weeks for work and I come home on Friday and clean it up. 24Hrs per inch of thickness is what the pentacryl instructions say. I will paint the outside with pentacryl with a brush every now and then to start but the pentacryl will seep through the wood in a week or so so you do not have to worry about the outside to much. I empty the pentacryl wipe the piece off place it on my bench and usually it is dry to finish in a couple of months. I may get a few minor cracks but nothing a little CA and dust cannot fix. When I finish it I sand it to 400 grit and put at least two coats of BLO on it let it dry then sand it again to 400 grit and put a minimum of 4 coats of Target Coatings Shellac on it lightly sand it back after the 4th coat. Once this is done I spray 8 to 10 coats of Target Coating lacquer on it lightly sanding the first few coats or any spots that need it. I let it dry a least a week and then start sanding lightly at 400 grit dry up to 800 grit then because it is water based I use mineral oil and micro mess sand paper up to 12000 grit which gives it pretty darn close to a piano like finish which is what I like. I give my work away usually never sell it as it becomes a job. I usually do 4 to 6 of these size a year just for the challenge.

Pentacryl is not cheap but I find it works well. After all the effort to get it turn nothing hurts worse than to have it crack and become worthless so I justify it this way to myself. Oh and the best investment I have made is a hoist over my lathe as it makes mounting it between centers sooooo much easier. Cheapo electric one from Harbor Freight my back thanks me greatly.

Brian,

As far as the cleanliness of my shop I am a nudge and clean it completely after each use. It is in my basement so want to try and keep my mess and dust to a minimum. I spay the work there as well thus the use of water based coatings which I would use inside or out. Target makes great stuff.

I appreciate all the feed back.

Tim.

[Dennis Nagle]

Great explanation Tim. One more thing. what do you do with the bottom 2 inches when you are all done? I have a hoist over my lathe to get my steady rest up on the bed. It weighs almost 80lbs. I wonder if you used one of those vacuum bags and made sure the suck point (for lack of a better word) was on top, if you couldn't soak the whole thing in Pentacryl. that would keep the outside covered too and you wouldn't be using that much more Pentacryl



http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a60/djnagle/010_zpse9058a7c.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/djnagle/media/010_zpse9058a7c.jpg.html)

[Tim Roach]

Dennis,

I builid it into the actual vase design so I leave a little bit of weight in the bottom of the vase. Said another way I do not hollow the last two inches of my vases.

Tim

[Pat Scott]

Tim you need to post more often! That Sycamore vase is absolutely beautiful. I look forward to seeing the Cherry when it's done as well. The Spalted Beech has nice wood but the neck looks too long to me and the proportions look off. I hate to suggest it, but reduce the length 1/2 to 3/4 of what it is now.

I forgot to say if you're looking for someone to give that Sycamore vase to (since you said you give away your work!), I'd be more than happy to help you out! Shippings on me!

[Dennis Nagle]

I think I should get it because I read his post before you Pat☺☺☺:D

[robert baccus]

Very nice work and wood. Like the above the last two need something on the top halfes. When are you going to get around to big pieces. On drying, just for giggles, do a vase--rough out the outside and inside and endseal the outside. Far less trouble, cheaper and faster drying fron the inside. Nice finish too.

[Harry Robinette]

Tim
That's some really beautiful work the wood is nice but what you do to it makes it really special.
Just my eye I think the top of that second vase is to tall by about half.

[Tim Roach]

Robert,

I have tried using anchorseal but when I am doing end grain with the pith off center I seem to get a lot of cracking. I reuse the Pentacryl over and over and ny luck with it is significantly better. Now the truth be told I may not be doing it right either.

Tim