Makita 2040 planer

[ray schneider]

I just acquired a Makita 2040 planer and in need of the columns which have been discontinued.
Searched the web for 50mm tubing. Not much luck.
Anyone know of any columns laying around somewhere? or tubing outlets that sell metric sizes besides Metric Express.
Also, any suggestions as to how to remove them. A bit on the corroded side. Everything else is perfect, but if I can't lower and raise the table then I have a boat anchor.
Thanks

[Doug Ladendorf]

Hey Ray, whad'ya say? Welcome to the creek. Can you post pictures? You might find something at Mcmaster Carr. You did call Makita?
Doug

[ray schneider]

Hey Doug, I say HELP! here's some pics.
I'll try Mcmaster Carr. Didn't call makita, but all research shows "Discontinued by manufacturer"


285731285732

[Doug Ladendorf]

From what I see it looks like you can clean up those columns and use them just fine. I've seen worse get saved and it will save you a lot of trouble.

Do you have an exploded parts diagram? Makita might be able to provide and a tech might even talk you through the process. Removed or in place I think you could use ScotchBrite pads with WD-40 to get most of that cleaned up. If it is stuck in place use some Kroil or other effective penetrant.

[ray schneider]

Doug,
Tried all that. Don't have a problem with the column I can get at, the upper casting is stuck to the column.
Gonna need more than a good penatrant. If I can get new columns then I would cut them off and apply heat to see if I can't change the structure of the metal to pry/twist them off.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Does the raise/lower mechanism tie into the columns as a potential complication?

[ray schneider]

Nope, works just fine once it's disconnected from the table

[Loren Woirhaye]

Can you get 1 or 2 jacks in underneath to force the table up? I would try that, assuming I'd squirted a bunch of PB blaster in the stuck parts and still couldn't get it to move.

You're going to have to get down and dirty anyway if you're willing to cut the columns and replace them, which sound like a recipe for a boat anchor to me. I looked for 50mm rod or tube for awhile last year and could never find it at anything less than exorbitantly priced. You can get it from the UK of course, but shipping is a lot.

[Tom M King]

Did you do a search for "50mm linear bearing rail" ? There are a bunch of places that sell cut to length

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/motors/shafting/custom-cut-shafts/60-plus-metric-linear-shafting-50mm-dia-shaft

[ray schneider]

That was the next plan of attack. Looking at a porta-power or small floor jack just to break it loose,
Can not remove Acme screw all the way out.
Thought the cotter pin removal would suffice. Any thoughts?

[ray schneider]

Thanks Tom,
gonna check it out right now.

[ray schneider]

Just checked out Global Industrial.
Whew! $500
Think I'm gonna try freeing it up.
I may just have a parts machine on my hands

[Doug Ladendorf]

Ray are there any clues in the schematic? Could be connected from the top, side, bottom with a long bolt. We do t have much to go on here.

[Loren Woirhaye]

I am not unfamiliar with the problem, but nor do I think it's unresolveable. Japan is, after all, a humid climate and these planers have endured as 110v workhorses. I had a 2030 with a seized table for awhile. I put some time it trying to get it to move, then put it on ebay and a guy bought it. I never tried the jack idea. I wasn't attached to the machine because it came my way for free. The rollers were bad anyway.

[Doug Ladendorf]

OK from the http://www.makita.com/en-us/assets/images/products/2040/owners_manuals/2040.pdfmanual the posts are held in the top by spring pins. Those can be knocked out with a punch. If you have done that some gentle persuasion is called for. I would use a mallet hitting up on a wood block, alternating evenly among the four posts. Have you tried this?

I'm sure you have found some other threads on the machine. Here are a couple:

http://wooditis.blogspot.com.br/2013/05/fun-with-old-tools-lets-rebuild-makita.html

http://lumberjocks.com/Sarit/blog/22275

[Bill McNiel]

I have a 2030 that has been a workhorse for 30+ years. I'll check if I still have the manual and see if I can glean anything that might assist you.

[ray schneider]

Loren,
In my quest for information I ran across this. Gonna try it out

There are some top of the line penetrants. But still the best is acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Mixed half and half. It must be kept shook up when using or it separates. the acetone seems to be a fast penetrant and it carries the atf with it

[ray schneider]

Thanks Bill

[Phil Thien]

Loren,
In my quest for information I ran across this. Gonna try it out

There are some top of the line penetrants. But still the best is acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Mixed half and half. It must be kept shook up when using or it separates. the acetone seems to be a fast penetrant and it carries the atf with it

You are on the right track. You just need to give the stuff enough time to work its magic. Patience is really the key here. I apply penetrating oil, wait a day and try to move the parts. No dice? More oil, wait another day. I've had cases where the parts wouldn't free-up for a week and I get distracted on another project, only to return a week or two later and the oil has worked its magic.

[Brad Patch]

I also have a 2030, I'm assuming there are some basic design similarities between the 2040 and 2030. The base of my machine where the fixed posts are mounted is cast iron but it is not very thick and would not withstand very much concentrated force. The upper end of the fixed tube is mounted in a what I think is an aluminum assembly, this also would not withstand much concentrated force. No doubt the tubes were factory installed with a press fit to ensure alignment and I would not consider trying to disassemble them.

The suggestions previously given regarding penetrating solutions are your best option. After soaking for a while the use of a little heat with a plumbers torch may get things moving.

[ray schneider]

Thanks Phil. Yes patience. It is a virtue you know.
Well I have plenty to keep me busy

[ray schneider]

Thanks for the advice. just going to keep oil on it.
I'll support the base so it takes the load.
Any idea about removing the acme screw?

[Brad Patch]

If the Acme screw you refer to is part of the table elevating mechanism, it should be easy to wiggle it a little while soaking it with whatever penetrant your using. Clamp some wood on either side and see if you can get it to twist a little in each direction to get it free. FYI, Most of the little metric round head screws which hold the feed rollers in place look like they have a Phillips recess but in fact they are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). They will come loose with a NEW #2 Phillips bit tapped into the recess with a small hammer. A well equipped hardware store will have hex head metric screws which will save a lot of hassles in the future.

The picture of your columns don't look that bad. You will get the table to move with patience.

Brad

[Brad Patch]

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=146117

Some old standbys and a new twist using candle wax.

[William Rech]

Do you still have this unit? I have one but have bent a feed roller shaft and sheared off the drive shaft. Would you be interested in selling your unit for parts?

[ray schneider]

Do you still have this unit? I have one but have bent a feed roller shaft and sheared off the drive shaft. Would you be interested in selling your unit for parts?

William,
After using the acetone/ATF I was able to free up the columns. I purchased other parts through ereplacementparts.com and the planer works great! so no, I'm going to hang onto it. Check them out, you may find just what you're looking for. I love it due to its stoutness. Definitely not a portable unit.