Shelix On A3-31 Jointer/Planer

[Glenn Kramer]

Hi,

I have a Hammer A3-31 Jointer Planer and am contemplating changing from the stock Tersa straight knife cutter head to a Shelix head. Primarily to reduce noise and tearout. I frequently work with highly figuerd Big Leaf Maple and lace redwood and get quite a bit of tear out with the straight cobalt knives.

Has anyone changed out their A3-31 to a shelix head. Results improved? How difficult was it to change out the head? I would purchase the head with the bearing installed. Is Byrd the best supplier to purchase the helical head from?

Thank you in advance for you input!

Glenn

[Dominic Carpenter]

Hi Glenn,

about a month or two ago there was an in depth discussion on FOG (Felder Owners Group) regarding this issue. I would encourage you to go there for some info.

[Thomas L. Miller]

Glen,
I just received my A3-31 last Friday. It replaced a Grizzly 6" jointer with the Grizzly segmented cutting block. I ordered the Hammer "silent power" segmented cutting block for my A3. It is light years ahead of the Grizzly block, which I liked a lot. The surface I got on some 11" wide cherry was only in need of a gentle touch with a smoother plane and it is ready for finish. Have you looked at getting a Hammer cutting block? I'm not sure they even sell their "silent power cutting block" as a separate part, but they are worth it. As an added benefit, it would be a drop in to your A3. I really do love this machine!
Tom

[David Kumm]

I didn't think Hammer used a TERSA. Was that an upgrade and if so have you tried other knives. TERSA makes a M42 that should give better results. cobalt is low end. Dave

[Mark Carlson]

Hi Glen,

I ordered mine with the byrd head. It got changed in deleware when it got off the boat so I cant speak to the changover or to the before and after. But the bryd head on the A3-31 is really nice. Quiet and the finish is excellent.

~mark

[Charles Coolidge]

No tare out with a Byrd Shelix cutter head on this maple.

285719

[Dominic Carpenter]

If I'm not mistaken, the Silent Power head cannot be added to the machines after production, only a Byrd can be retro fitted.

[Rod Sheridan]

If I'm not mistaken, the Silent Power head cannot be added to the machines after production, only a Byrd can be retro fitted.

That is my understanding as well...........Rod.

[Glenn Kramer]

Gentlemen,

I appreciate your replies. Correct...Hammer does not offer a Shelix retrofit option.
I am convinced by the results clearly shown on Mr. Coolidges curly maple amp, absolutely beautiful!

I was unable to find the FOG discussion Dominic mentions, anyone have a link to it?

I sure would like to hear someone's experience with making the change over to the shelix head!
many thanks to all!

Glenn

[David Hawxhurst]

Felders Owners Group (FOG) is a yahoo group. you will need to register. helixhead.com can make a cutter head to, don't know how it compares to the bryd.

[Mike Gottlieb]

I purchased the Byrd head for my A3-31. Have not had the opportunity to attempt the installation yet. Plan to do this in the next few weeks. Should you run into a problem, the tech's at Felder would be more than willing to assist you. I know they have a tech bulletin on the install. They also suggest you purchase a new seal that goes on one end of the shelix head.

[Rich Riddle]

I read where the Tersa heads actually produced a superior cut to the Shelix. Perhaps Erik discussed that once in here. I added the Shelix head to a MiniMax FS35 and there's a world of difference between straight blades and the Shelix head. It's not an inexpensive endeavor, so make certain you want the Shelix for your needs. I have significantly reduced tear-out when using it with Maple but some tear-out nonetheless.

[Chris Padilla]

I have MM FS41-Elite (16" J/P) with the Tersa head (3 knives) and with sharp knives, I rarely have issues and I've run my fair share of figured maple through it. I still get tear out here and there but that usually means I need to flip the knives over for a fresh edge.

[Robert LaPlaca]

I didn't think Hammer used a TERSA. Was that an upgrade and if so have you tried other knives. TERSA makes a M42 that should give better results. cobalt is low end. Dave

Another vote for trying the M42 knives..

[nicholas mitchell]

Are you absolutely sure you have Tersa knives? Those are not the stock knives and I don't think they're even offered on Hammer machines. My guess is you have the stock Hammer cutter block system. If I'm wrong then I apologize.
If I were you Ii would try many things before committing to the change to any different cutter block. At least 50% of all planer issues can be solved by waxing the bed. Start there. Then try different feed speeds, then different depths of cut. Then wax the bed again and try it all over again. Then try different knives and start again.

Also, you're asking a lot not to get any tearout with big leaf or birdseye. It's a ridiculously difficult wood to machine and neither tool nor money is going to change that entirely.

Seriously, change the block as a last resort. It's spendy and tough to do .

[Brian Tax]

For those who have or plan to change heads, what are you doing with the old head? Seems like an expensive paper weight to have laying around.

[Dominic Carpenter]

I have the A31 with the Silent Power head. I purchased it primarily due to the noise reduction. My shop is in my garage and the houses in our subdivision are 15' apart. I can tell you the noise reduction in my shop is nothing short of incredible! My straight knife jointer used to scream with dust collection running, and the planer is much quieter than my Delta lunch box. I must admit, the quality of the cut is great (no tear out), however, there is a much more definite cutter head pattern or "tracking" pattern with the segmented cutter head of the Silent Power. Sometimes it is more noticeable than others. I have only been using it for a few weeks, so I'm still trying to figure out why. A quick pass with a plane or sanding takes care of it, but I was surprised by the "tacking" issue. It is much more defined than what the knives leave due to the fact that the tracking runs along the length of the surface where the knives leave their cutting pattern across the grain.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have machines with both. One is a SCM planer with a tersa, and a Jointer with a Byrd. The Tersa does a better job on problem woods. It is also very quiet, so your concern for noise has me wondering as well if you have a Tersa. Tersas do get a bit louder as they get dull, but I use it to tell me when to change. Byrd does a good job, but can not plane curly maple of birdseye as well. Tersa with a set of good blades is tearout free. I just planed some curly maple a bit ago, perfect.

That being said, I have been using a lot of imported woods that are hard on M42 and the cost of carbides for the Tersa is a bit on the high side, $640 to do my 520mm head. I'm thinking about it.......

[John Terdik]

I purchased the Byrd head for my A3-31. Have not had the opportunity to attempt the installation yet. Plan to do this in the next few weeks. Should you run into a problem, the tech's at Felder would be more than willing to assist you. I know they have a tech bulletin on the install. They also suggest you purchase a new seal that goes on one end of the shelix head.
Mike do you have a write-up regarding the Byrd installation for the A3-31. What was your experience? Any problems or surprises? Did you get new bearings?

[Bill McNiel]

Glen,
After using a Makita 2030 for over 40 years, I now have an A3-41 with the spiral head. Huge difference but not really apples to oranges, but I really like the spiral head. If you are coming to the Eastside anytime you are welcome to drop by the Barn and experience the spiral head in action and see the quality of the post planning finish.
regards-Bill

[Warren Lake]

if you have old stuff like me three things can make it work better.

If sharp high speed steel is getting tear out often a secondary bevel will cut clean as it cuts more like a wedge. Second feed rate makes a difference on figured stuff, I can run birdseye on an entry level molder and cut clean because there is a motor to turn down the feed rate. On the old SCM I put it in and out of gear and stop it from getting to full speed. Mickey mouse but it helps. Third if you can run your material with some angle, havent tried putting a fence in the planer table but it works on the jointer running at an angle in the same way holding a hand plane at an angle helps.

[John Terdik]

I purchased the Byrd head for my A3-31. Have not had the opportunity to attempt the installation yet. Plan to do this in the next few weeks. Should you run into a problem, the tech's at Felder would be more than willing to assist you. I know they have a tech bulletin on the install. They also suggest you purchase a new seal that goes on one end of the shelix head.
I know this is an old thread but I'm looking for info on the Byrd Shelix head installed on the A3-31. So far my search has produced zero. Mike any info you can pass on would be greatly appreciated.