how to fabricate Kreg clamping table

[tom coleman]

Yesterday I purchased Kreg clamping track and Kreg clamps at Tampa Woodworking show. I plan on attaching the 2 two foot long sections of track in a 90 degree configuration on one end of a sheet of 3/4 plywood. Then I should have a great set up for clamping any corner pocket joints. However, I am perplexed as to how I would clamp a stile in the middle of an 8 foot long face frame for pocket hole joinery. Seems to me I should I purchase a 3rd section of Kreg track and attach it to the opposite end of my 2x4 plywood base. Comments, suggestions appreciated from those of you who who have been there and done that.

One more question. I will have bolts protruding from bottom of my plywood base after attaching the Kreg track. My first thought is to attach the plywood base to 2x4 skids to keep the protruding bolt heads off the work surface of my assempbly table when in use. Any better idea?

[Andrew Kertesz]

I would make my table similar to what Kreg does. Two layers of either 3/4" plywood or MDF. Glued and screwed from the bottom would take care of the protruding bolt heads. Mount your track at a 90* on the overhang. Get yourself some stops from Kreg or fabricate your own. They also show in their videos using an 8' x 4' pneumatic clamping table. A lot depends on your budget and how elaborate you want to get.

[Charles Lent]

I would also use two layers of 3/4 plywood, probably cabinet birch, because of it's flatness and stability, glued together, then glue some laminate glued to the top and bottom surfaces to keep the plywood flat and to keep glue from sticking to the top surface. The back laminate is needed to keep the back surface from changing size with humidity changes to keep the top flat. I would then drill the mounting holes for the Kreg hardware and screw in some threaded inserts so they were just below the top surface. It would then be simple to bolt the Kreg hardware in place without the need for nuts or bolts extending through the back panel. Because the back has laminate on it you may need some kind of slip proof feet on it, or you could just use a router anti-slip pad under it whenever using it on your workbench.

Charley

[Mike Heidrick]

Get the Kreg table manual - it shows how to assemble it. The bottom layer is 1" not 3/4".

The nuts on the bottom are recessed into the bottom sheet.

The top sheet is pretty much flush with track - that is how you do the 8' middle stile. The sliders allow you to position the right angle wherever you need it to be.

I put mine on the same plane (shown in 2nd pic) as my Foreman. Works well and gives additional support to larger pieces that I put pocket holes in.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e169/BloomingtonMike/klamp1.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e169/BloomingtonMike/klamp3.jpg