Chain Saw Recommendations

[Rich Riddle]

I have a bit of area to clearcut and am wondering what chainsaw you folks recommend. My little Husqvarna 435 seems overwhelmed by the experience. All the green is honeysuckle and some of the trees are very large in diameter. All two acres needs to evaporate. Thanks for your thoughts and ideas.

Regards,

Rich

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[Michael Mayo]

I have 2 saws both are Stihl. The smaller saw is what they cal a homeowner saw but it is a little demon 025 model with an 18" bar. I picked up a second Stihl 044 70cc saw 2 years ago used off Craigslist for $350 and it is a serious professional saw that will cut through anything I throw at it. It has a 20" bar and I have cut some huge trees with it. It never bogs down and just eats wood like it is never full. The big secret I learned wit chainsaws is keeping the chain very very sharp. If you touch the ground with a running chain it will need immediate sharpening. With an extremely sharp chain even a smaller saw like my 025 can eat some pretty big trees. Learn how to sharpen your chain correctly and you will never have problems cutting any of that 2 acres you need to clear.

[Rich Riddle]

Thanks Michael. Sounds like you're saying operator error not ineffective tool.

[Jim Andrew]

Do a google on Bailey's. They are a great source for saws, chains, and anything else you will need. Their chains have hardened teeth, and cut better than the original equipment chains.

[John TenEyck]

A pro quality Stihl or Husqvarna in the 65 - 70 cc range will cut darned near anything you want. They are the sweet spot of big enough to get the job done but light enough not to tire you out too quickly. As said, a sharp chain is everything. IME Stihl chains are the best (and I have mostly Husqvarna saws).

John

[Steve Friedman]

To make room for a bigger pool?

I'm no expert (far from it) and love chainsaws (especially those made by Stihl), but not sure I would try to clear 2 acres with a chainsaw. Don't you need something a bit larger? Like a bulldozer?

Steve

[Cody Colston]

A Stihl 290 or a Husquvarna 455 will be all the saw you will need and will last years after the 2 acre clearing.

[Rich Riddle]

Here are pictures of what I am clearing through this entire spring/summer to offer an idea of the task at hand. Your recommendations of a farm-rated saw have proved interesting reading. You can somewhat get an idea of the slope involved and realize any sort of machinery can not function on this grade.

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Had to use screen shots because photos have a difficult time loading.

[Mark Andrew]

Stihl MS290/MS029 Farm Boss.

[John Downey]

I can't help with a saw recommendation, since mine is a Homelite from the early 1970's. Heavy and LOUD! :D

But I did want to second Michael's advice about sharpening. That may be why your saw doesn't seem up to the task.

If you don't have a file or two, get them and learn to sharpen free hand. With practice it will take you just a few minutes to do the chain, and with all that wood to cut, you'll need to sharpen often. I usually touch up the chain every time I fill up, but then all the sand in the juniper bark out here dulls a chain really fast.

The other option is to have a bunch of spare chains and get them sharpened. Being cheep, I like to file them, they last longer :D Sharpeners take off a bunch of tooth (couple times and they can sell you a new chain :D ).

[Drew Pavlak]

+1 on sharpening. Also possibly look at a different chain. There are several different pitches available for most size chains. Is there a sharpening shop in your area? Maybe talk to them and see what they have to say. I know I prefer Oregon chains to others. Stock chains I usually replace quickly. Just don't seem to hold up, IMO.

When was the last time the air filter was cleaned? Saw may just need a good maintenance cycle and new chain. Just a thought.

Be advised that more aggressive chains usually have a higher risk of kickback.

Oregon has a chain selector tool on their website - http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/lookups/selguide.aspx?BusId=OCS&SellReg=USA&LangId=ENG

Based on the pics you submitted, it doesn't appear to be anything that saw couldn't handle. Specs say it is a 40.9cc engine and capable of up to an 18" bar. I have a Husqvarna 350 and I wouldn't trade it for the world. Great saw for me.

[Matt Meiser]

What is the diameter of what you are cutting?

[Jak Kelly]

Stihl, one of the best saws out there for the money. I have the Farm Boss, so does my dad. I think dad's is over 10 years old now, still easy to start, still cuts like new. Dad's saw has also seen a lot of action over those 10+ years; clearing, seasonal cutting for firewood. Not sure exactly how many rick's of wood his has cut. We had Poulans, Homelites, even McCullohs in the past one of the biggest things we noticed at first was how long you could cut without ever touching the original chain.
I do have some experience with Husquavarna and I will tell you that for a little more money you get a lot more saw with a Stihl!!
Father-in-law has a Husquavarna and brother has one, neither of those saws start or perform as well as the Stihl.

[Mark Bolton]

Here are pictures of what I am clearing through this entire spring/summer to offer an idea of the task at hand. Your recommendations of a farm-rated saw have proved interesting reading. You can somewhat get an idea of the slope involved and realize any sort of machinery can not function on this grade.

285577 285579 285580 285581

Had to use screen shots because photos have a difficult time loading.

That looks a lot less like chainsaw work to me and more like renting a skid steer with a bush hog on the front. Thats a days worth of work with that machine, weeks worth of back breaking labor with a chainsaw.

Agree with the others, even a small well tuned saw, a good lesson in sharpening, and you'd be fine. Its not uncommon to re-sharpen several times a day.

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[Tom M King]

I have chainsaws of all sizes, as well as all sorts of other small equipment, up through tractor implements. I wouldn't tackle that with a chainsaw. I'd use a clearing saw, sometimes called a brushcutter. It's like a giant string trimmer with a sawblade. Mine is a Stihl FS450K. You won't want to invest that much in one for a couple of acres, but look at the largest size stringtrimmer Stihl sells now, and a brushcutting blade and guard for it. I think it's a model FS120, but that's just by memory.

I have a FS110 that we use for weeds. They say you can put a blade on a 110, but I wouldn't want to. I don't think the next larger size is that much more.

Once you have it all cut down and disposed of, spray new shoots that come out as soon as you see green. I'd try Roundup, but you may have to go to Arsenal to kill it.

The skidsteer tip is a good one. If you can rent one with tracks, and a cutter like the one in that picture, do that.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Stihl saws, but what are you going to do with it all when it's cut? A brushhog would do it, especially on a tracked skidsteer, and you wouldn't have two acres worth of branches to get rid of after you are done.

[Matt Meiser]

I have chainsaws of all sizes, as well as all sorts of other small equipment, up through tractor implements. I wouldn't tackle that with a chainsaw. I'd use a clearing saw, sometimes called a brushcutter. It's like a giant string trimmer with a sawblade. Mine is a Stihl FS450K. You won't want to invest that much in one for a couple of acres, but look at the largest size stringtrimmer Stihl sells now, and a brushcutting blade and guard for it. I think it's a model FS120, but that's just by memory.

This is what I was thinking. I run a 3-blade knife on my FS90 but rarely encounter anything over 1". Like a TS, the 10" blade isn't going to cut over 3" or so in a single pass and you are going to need power for that. I'd want a full brushcutter for more than occasional use, not a trimmer running a knife.

[Harry Hagan]

That looks a lot less like chainsaw work to me and more like renting a skid steer with a bush hog on the front. Thats a days worth of work with that machine, weeks worth of back breaking labor with a chainsaw.

Agree with the others, even a small well tuned saw, a good lesson in sharpening, and you'd be fine. Its not uncommon to re-sharpen several times a day.

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I agree. A track skid steer with a bush hog on the front. What's your plan for erosion control?

[David G Baker]

I cleared around 3/4 acre with a Shindawa brush whacker (weed whacker with a brush blade added). It took a while but I did it. Most of the brush was smaller than 2 inches across. I actually used it to cut a 6 inch across tree with out much of a problem. The blade was an Oregon 90 teeth per inch.

[Tom M King]

This is what I was thinking. I run a 3-blade knife on my FS90 but rarely encounter anything over 1". Like a TS, the 10" blade isn't going to cut over 3" or so in a single pass and you are going to need power for that. I'd want a full brushcutter for more than occasional use, not a trimmer running a knife.
The FS450K has a compression release on it. Without it, it's not possible to pull the cord with it at your side. It's a beast. It comes with a full back harness with a pad on the hip that it rests against. We mainly use if for thinning young pines, but it's good for brush cutting too, or knocking down young pine trees where you don't want them.

[Mark Bolton]

I agree. A track skid steer with a bush hog on the front. What's your plan for erosion control?

That ground doesnt look that steep to me other than the small cleared portion but of course tough to see in an image, and its dry. I'd not have a care in the world about going at that with a skid steer or track loader . Either would tackle that with zero issue. The track may be nice but they always steeper to rent around here at least.

Grading, wet, soft, I lean towards track loader for the reduced ground pressure but thats about it. When its hard and dry whichever is cheaper :D

[Jim Andrew]

Now that I've seen the pics, wondering if you have a way to get down there to the more level part where the brush is? If that were my mess to clean up, think I would use my tree shear and skid steer. I bought a tree shear, it is a Wichita Shear, small company from Wichita, and use it on my 60xt Case. Bought it to cut trees in my pastures, and it will cut a 10" tree. Have to treat the stumps or they grow back so fast you can't keep ahead of them. I use Remedy and diesel fuel to spray on the bark of what is left after the tree is cut off. Have to get a rate from your county agent. In a mess like that, you need a grapple to move the trees after you cut a few or you have no place to go next.

[Ole Anderson]

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQVShlXgTXSjMx8_kIOR7kC0jfRnMKY6 URAUtq5E_1Ba0MvYBKb1Q (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAQQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cookfpi.com%2Flandclearing_ma ssachusetts.html&ei=UX4wU5avKa3C2gWuooCIDg&usg=AFQjCNHVPnV6CTi8_ZvQHpaQ7wQUeVAPzw&sig2=w77AVmwFsp0L9YJbw6U8Cw&bvm=bv.62922401,d.b2I)

[Michael Mayo]

You can forget the chainsaw you are going to need some serious machinery to get this job done. I would go with the recommendations to rent a big machine that handles brush clearing and it should only take a day to clear it all up. Getting rid of all the cuttings is going to be another big job I hope you have a plan for that after you are done mowing everything in site down to ground level. That is going to leave you with a huge pile of debris to deal with. Also like someone else mentioned what are you going to do about keeping the dirt on the hillside after all of that ground cover is gone?

[Rich Riddle]

The slope of the hill is about forty degrees, more in some places. Not sure a big piece of machinery could handle that. Then there is the problem with getting it back to the location. I don't want to use a chain saw more than anyone else, but that's what seems to be practical for the job. It's a slow go for certain. After cutting, I am shredding/chipping all of it. The 10 HP chipper works like a champ. Can't wait ti haul that back up the hill. We have a botanist for erosion control. Some of those honeysuckle are 10" in diameter. Quite large.

[Rich Riddle]

Now that I've seen the pics, wondering if you have a way to get down there to the more level part where the brush is?
It levels out near the Ohio River bank but other than that it's nearly a cliff the entire way.

[Matt Day]

I didn't see if you answered the question or not - what diameter brush in general are you cutting?

I've used both the shaft driven weedwackers with a circular saw style blade, and with a hedge trimmer attachment for trail maintenance and they do the trick on most brush. For things less than say 1", the hedge trimmer attachment is great because it's so fast. And the bigger stuff can be done with the circ saw attachment. It would be much easier on your back.
Bending over or even Crawling on your hands and knees with a chainsaw for 2 acres sounds miserable.

[Kevin Bourque]

That scrubby stuff can be knocked down with a chainsaw( the slooooooowest way) or a Bush hog( much faster), but you'll still have zillions of stumps sticking out everywhere. You should really consider pulling those scrubs up by their roots.

[Mark Bolton]

The slope of the hill is about forty degrees, more in some places. Not sure a big piece of machinery could handle that. Then there is the problem with getting it back to the location. I don't want to use a chain saw more than anyone else, but that's what seems to be practical for the job. It's a slow go for certain. After cutting, I am shredding/chipping all of it. The 10 HP chipper works like a champ. Can't wait ti haul that back up the hill. We have a botanist for erosion control. Some of those honeysuckle are 10" in diameter. Quite large.

… 40 degree slope is basically unwalkable 80+% grade. Machine could still do it with runout but the 10" diameter is the deal breaker. Now sounds like excavator, and take the brush out by the root (best option anyway). Bad excuse for a new tool. Put the chainsaw money towards the excavator.

[Jim Matthews]

I use my chain saw for cutting log length trees into stove length firewood.

Cutting brush isn't the first thing I would use my saw for; the likelihood of going to ground is high.
Dirt and sharp blades don't go together.

This calls for a task-specific tool - the brush cutter.
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Bent over, with a chainsaw turned sideways to the ground for two acres is a daunting task.

[Matt Day]

Just reread the thread and see you have some 10" brush to go through. Sounds like you're going to need a few different tools for each type/size of brush.

[Peter Kelly]

We have a botanist for erosion control.You might want to hire a landscape architect instead. A 40º incline is very steep and you'd likely experience some pretty significant erosion without a design in place once you've clear cut the hill.

[Thomas Canfield]

I did not see anyone mention a pole chain saw. It looks like some type of pole or extended cutter will be required to be able to stay clear of the "brush" and get to the stem. You are going to have a lot of regrowth with all the remaining stumps, but the roots should hold the surface somewhat. Looks like a big job.

[Rich Riddle]

You might want to hire a landscape architect instead. A 40º incline is very steep and you'd likely experience some pretty significant erosion without a design in place once you've clear cut the hill.
Thank you for that idea. The botanist believes native grasses will hold the hill; I don't. Unfortunately there was nothing for ground cover for a long long time, just a canopy of honeysuckle. Thus, erosion has been an unseen problem.

[Rich Riddle]

I did not see anyone mention a pole chain saw. It looks like some type of pole or extended cutter will be required to be able to stay clear of the "brush" and get to the stem. You are going to have a lot of regrowth with all the remaining stumps, but the roots should hold the surface somewhat. Looks like a big job.
I own a 13' Husqvarna pole saw and have used it extensively to clear the canopy of what you see already removed. A 20% Roundup solution has been "painted" on the stumps. There really aren't many small stalks on the part removed, just huge tree-like bushes. On the remaining area, there are stalks.

[Mel Fulks]

Honeysuckle holds dirt pretty well. This might be difficult .

[Mark Bolton]

Rich, can I ask what the ultimate objective is? Is it to landscape this area? Just have it gone? Assuming the first given the "botanist" references.

[Peter Kelly]

If you're cutting invasive vines like Japanese Honeysuckle, you'll often find they're just one contiguous interconnected plant. As above, can be very difficult to remove.

[Rich Riddle]

Mark, the ultimate goal is to keep the wife happy. A happy wife means a happy life. Her reason is to establish something on the hill that retains the soil. We have absolutely no ground cover, none. That means even though the top has a canopy that looks great, the soil erodes in the weather here. We are looking for something more than grass to hold the hillside since grass won't hold it with deep roots. Unfortunately, the botanist doesn't seem to realize that. We do.

Peter, those are Amur honeysuckle and some possess substantial "trunks" to say the least. There are some sort of grape vines in there that can be up to three inches in diameter.

Thanks to the folks who recommended a brush cutter. The hunt now went from a chainsaw to a brush cutter. While a Stihl proves cost prohibitive, a Husqvarna seems a acceptable alternative and is only about $50 more than the Echo model. It seems the Husqvarna has far more parts available.

[Jim Andrew]

Look at Bailey's online, they sell both those brands. Have you heard of vetch? it is a vine plant the states use to hold the ground on slopes along the interstate highways. It is very aggressive at taking over grassland, but if you are not near grassland, no worry. Call your extension agent about what to use as stump killer, it is a real pain to have tree roots sending new chutes up after you think they are done. Here in Kansas, Remedy and diesel combined is about the only thing that works on most trees. Cedar trees die if you just cut below any green. And also check the rate to be applied and the dates. The date is very important in killing trees, as if you do not apply at the right time, the chemical will not do it's job. I have to work at clearing trees every year. The grasslands would be brush lands if not for farmers.

[Rich Riddle]

Jim,

I lived in Kansas for about thirty years in various places including Southwest Kansas and the Flint Hills. Thanks for the extension office comment and the information concerning vetch. Will call the extension office later. The botanist here seems more concerned with returning native plants than stabilizing the hillside; that seems strange since houses sit atop the hillside.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have a Husqvarna 24" 460 (+/-) that I bought last year, and other than having it serviced once a year I have not had any other problems with it. It has cut down enormous trees (3 1/2' diameter the largest) without any trouble. I am not sure that a chain saw is the best tool for your job, and you might want to get a weedeater with a brush blade, or one of those lawnmower brush cutter instead for you small stuff. Or, rent a skid steer or bobcat.

[Tom M King]

How many cubic inches is the Husqvarna cutter you're looking at?

[Rich Riddle]

How many cubic inches is the Husqvarna cutter you're looking at?
It's the 345 model, currently the largest they make. Half the property has very large trees of Honeysuckle and the other half has small bushes of them. I am looking at the brush cutter for the smaller bushes that are at most 3" in diameter.

[Tom M King]

How is the density of those 3" stalks compared to some wood. I'll go look at the specs on that cutter, and get back to you. When we are clearing with the big 450, we normally skip stuff that's over a couple of inches, and use a small saw (MS180) on stuff up to about four or five inches.

[Tom M King]

I looked at that cutter. Specs are very close to my 450. It should be a nice little beast, but I wouldn't expect to cut 3" stalks with it all day. If they are softer than Pine, it should be okay. The blade I use has teeth that are sharpened with a chainsaw file, but I use a 4-1/2 inch grinder to just touch each tooth to sharpen it very quickly when I'm in the shop, but keep a file with the gas can for on the job.

[Rich Riddle]

As a side note I was following the Bay on a few chainsaws. A three year ol Stihl in very good condition, model 271, just fetched the same price as the local dealer charges new with tax. The seller indicated the saw needed a new blade. When that cost was calculated into the sale, it cost within pennies of the price of a brand-new unit. Some people amaze me.

[Tom M King]

Your 435 should be all the saw you need for that job. If it's running fine, it might just need a sharp chain. That's going to be the case with any chainsaw. Even my ported 066 won't cut with a dull chain. I whet the chain at each fill up of the tank.

I looked at the specs for the 435. The saws in my arsenal are Stihl 180, 250, 036, and 066. 036 and 066 are old versions of todays 360 and 660 but about the same size saws.

For your job, in addition to the clearing saw, I'd use the little 180. You don't need more saw.

[Rich Riddle]

Your 435 should be all the saw you need for that job. If it's running fine, it might just need a sharp chain. That's going to be the case with any chainsaw. Even my ported 066 won't cut with a dull chain. I whet the chain at each fill up of the tank.

I looked at the specs for the 435. The saws in my arsenal are Stihl 180, 250, 036, and 066. 036 and 066 are old versions of todays 360 and 660 but about the same size saws.

For your job, in addition to the clearing saw, I'd use the little 180. You don't need more saw.You folks really helped a lot in realizing a new chainsaw wasn't needed. I sharpened the blade the other day, tossed a very bad one in the trash, and ordered two new blades. The two new blades and the file kit cost far less than any new saw. That was the good news. Most of the folks here convinced me to invest in a decent brush cutter; those aren't cheap.

[Tom M King]

I did a search on ebay for "clearing saw", and there are a bunch on there. This one seems decent:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-336FR-CLEARING-SAW-BRUSH-CUTTER-FREE-SHIPPING-/181146008207?pt=US_Outdoor_Power_Equipment&hash=item2a2d24ba8f

I believe, if you aren't going to do much more rough cutting than you have to do with those couple of acres, that you would get by just fine with a Stihl FS130, with a brush cutter blade. I think a 130 is around $400, and you would have the most badass string trimmer there is when you get finished with the blade on it. It has the handlebars like a big'un, but not the heavy harness, which my guys don't like to use with the 450. They just use a sling off of a string trimmer.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/trimmers-and-brushcutters/professional-trimmers/fs130/ We use a 110 as our main string trimmer, which has close to enough power for a blade, so I feel like for limited work, and not in the hands of a maniac, that a 130 would be fine as a brushcutter.

[Rich Riddle]

Tom,

Thank you for the suggestions. I am particularly interested in the Stihl you recommend and am looking over the blades. Several reviews indicate it's a good brush cutter. I thought the only option for them was at more than double the price. A dealer is offering a new Husqvarna 345 for about the same price that seller wants for the used Husqvarna on eBay. It comes with blades, a harness, string line attachment, etc. So if I go with Husqvarna, that will likely be the one. Now I will compare/contrast the Husqvarna 345 with the Stihl 130. Thanks again.

[george newbury]

Stihl FS250 w/ bike handle

[Tyler Keniston]

I agree with the call for brushsaws and also that there's probably no need for a larger newer saw. As an aside, if you do ever go for a new saw, I would echo what others have said about 50-70 cc's being a good all around saw for average sized tree cutting and the like.

Claims the Stihl are the uncontested BEST saws around are abundant. People get on their train and ride it. Stihl's are great, but know that there are other great options, including Husqvarna, Dolmar, Johnsered, Echo, and others. Be aware that there are notable differences between the home, farm, and pro saws even within a brand. My personal choice is Husky pro (357 xp, or their new 562xp).

In an effort for clarity of lingo, chainsaws run chain on a bar. If someone told me about a chainsaw blade, I wouldn't know if they meant the chain, the bar, or both. Additionally, the 'pitch' of a chain must match the sprocket of the saw and bar, and the gauge and length must match the bar. In other words, if buying new chain, varying the pitch would not be the thing you'd want to vary, but rather the cutter style (semi chisel may hold up to dirt better since it has a round attack corner rather than pointed square corner).

One other note about sharpening, which you may already know, is that every few filings, you'll want to file down the depth gauges (aka rakers). This will keep the depth of cut proper. There are guides for this.

Hope the project goes well and that you have a few helping hands!

[Bill Sutherland]

LOL LOL LOL. Where I'm from we'd call those "trees"...shrubs!! Seriously any good old Stihl will cut those little fellas down.:D

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Those Stihl super whackers are pretty darn good. I have one, I think it's a 450, it's a serious tool and would get a lot of your "weeds".

[Rich Riddle]

LOL LOL LOL. Where I'm from we'd call those "trees"...shrubs!! Seriously any good old Stihl will cut those little fellas down.:D
Guess you didn't see the ten or twelve inch stumps in the cleared picture. The little ones aren't the problem.... It's the larger ones bogging down the saw.

[Tom M King]

You aren't expecting to cut the stumps off below ground level, or even lower than they are in the picture with a chainsaw, are you?

[Rich Riddle]

You aren't expecting to cut the stumps off below ground level, or even lower than they are in the picture with a chainsaw, are you?
I am actually leaving the very low stumps to help stabilize the hillside this year. The extension office is working on plantings to immediately plant. They indicated the botanist was more worried about native species not hill stabilization. I want a stable hill and care little about what was there originally.

[Mark Bolton]

Guess you didn't see the ten or twelve inch stumps in the cleared picture. The little ones aren't the problem.... It's the larger ones bogging down the saw.

Rich,
I think you are probably seeing that the bogging, while may be slightly due to the size of the saw, is mainly going to be to do with technique and sharpening. Even the smallest home center saw would handle 10" stuff easily. Of course would it be nice to have a bigger saw, sure, but in my opinion the bonus is mainly to allow for a longer bar so you dont have to stoop so much. Short bars are brutal on the back but are good for pruning and trimming at chest height.

Personally I think the smallest saw a good dealer tells you will run a 20" bar would be far more saw than any individual needs for occasional around the house use. I use to run a 18" bar on a small 026 and while the longer bar sucked off a bit of the power if it was sharp it would cut firewood all day long in trees far bigger than your cutting there. I have that 026, a 310, and a 390, now and I personally cant see a need for either of the larger saws unless you live on a wooded lot and do a lot of clearing/timbering and so on. Anyone who isnt in the timbering business that has any of the larger saws 044/066 MAG's likely have testosterone issues or got them cheap. They are just overkill if your not running them every single day and they are back breakers.

You can get a lot more out of your saw by trying out some different chains, working on your filling, and so on. I run the full chisel Picco chains (square) they are a bit more of an aggressive cut and you could give those a try. Other great tips given to me by a good friend who is a logger is to use a file one size larger than your chain calls for as well as sharpening a bit flatter (less file angle) which gives the edge a little more support. It wont be as aggressive initially but the flatter sharpening angle and steeper tooth angle from the larger file will tolerate dirt/grit a bit better and stay sharper longer.

[Rich Riddle]

Mark,

Thanks for that information. Guess other chains would work on the Husqvarna 435 other than Husqvarna chains. Oregon didn't seem to offer a direct replacement. Does one only note the pitch, angle, width, etc. when ordering a non-factory type of blade. I did purchase a Husqvarna chain sharpening file set. It seems to work well. The original chain proved so far beyond repair that it had to be discarded. Sharp does make quite a difference.

[Jim Stewart]

Rich, you mention large honeysuckle! Are these bush honeysuckle? If so they are a worthy adversary. Tough wood! The husky you have should do fine for the larger trees. Depending on the trees you will have to be concerned the re-sprouting of some species like honey locust, bush honeysuckle. I used Tordon stump killer and it is very effective. for honeysuckle vines you can use roundup but caution here because you will kill all of the grasses as well. you will have erosion issues then. Crossbow will kill the honeysuckle vines as well and not kill the grass, but it cost more.
I have a Stihl 044 and I would use it for the large stuff. a smaller tree trimming saw would be good for the 3" stuff.
I think the tracked skid-steer with a bush hog is a good way to go. maybe you can buy an outfit and then sell it when your done. You could spot spray the area in small tracks immediately as you are done. to kill the stuff you need to work with fresh cuts. Best of luck.

[Rich Riddle]

Jim,

The botanist claims the are Amur honeysuckle. They might have started as shrubs but many are now tree-like and quite large. According to Wikipedia, the Amur honeysuckle can grow to 20 feet tall. As you can see by the small size of the chipper in the photographs, these are that tall. Thanks for the information on the stump killer. Anything that will kill the honeysuckle but keep grass and vines is a winner.

[Mark Bolton]

Mark,

Thanks for that information. Guess other chains would work on the Husqvarna 435 other than Husqvarna chains. Oregon didn't seem to offer a direct replacement. Does one only note the pitch, angle, width, etc. when ordering a non-factory type of blade. I did purchase a Husqvarna chain sharpening file set. It seems to work well. The original chain proved so far beyond repair that it had to be discarded. Sharp does make quite a difference.

You can call out your saw or the chain spec's to any where selling chains and they can give you the chain to fit. Your only real decision is the tooth shape/geometry. The round chisel is the norm because its a little more forgiving, less aggressive, and reportedly less kickback. The Piccos (square full chisel) from what I have always seen are pretty much what anyone in the timber industry uses. I believe its about the most popular chain sold but often times local dealers will warn about kickback because I think they generally deal with homeowners. I have never had an issue with kickback to be honest but a lot of that has to do with your raker height as well.

You can likely do some reading on the internet about hand sharpening but I just use a file and a file handle, no guides or anything. One file size larger than your chain calls for. Most chains will have a score line on the tooth representing the optimum angle and max file depth. I simply flatten this out a little (square your file to the bar a bit more). The steep angle they recommend you file to makes a super sharp and fast cutting chain but it also dulls very quickly. And of course remember that if your cutting this brush close to the ground and rain has splashed mud up on the trunks and so on, you may sharpen as another post replied, every time you re-fuel. It may just be three light licks per tooth but none the less it will be needed.

I think regardless of chain type, if you got in the routine of sharpening well, and sharpening often, you'd be surprised how well your current saw does. I know your opting for the brush cutter route now, but its all good info. That buddy of mine (logger) really was a wealth of knowledge. I own 115 acres with about 75 of it timber and have a small sawmill and working around him (stealing his knowledge the entire time) has been a major benefit. To watch a guy who does that stuff in his sleep is just mind blowing to me.

P.S.
Remember too that you have to periodically file your rakers down slightly with a flat file after several sharpenings. If you dont, the tooth height will be at the same level or lower than the tip of the raker and you will suffer.

[Rich Riddle]

Well the "chain saw" arrived in the mail yesterday. Here is the Husqvarna 345 bush cutter. Took about an hour to assemble. Thanks to all those who offered opinions toward the correct tool. Was able to pick this up at a much cheaper price online. It's superior in category (professional grade) to many of the smaller Stihl's that would have been similarly priced (homeowner grade).

286371

[Tyler Keniston]

sharpening a bit flatter (less file angle) which gives the edge a little more support

Assuming this is in reference to the top plate angle, which I assumed based on this:
(square your file to the bar a bit more... I am not sure that in particular would actually beef up an edge. I do see how a larger file would do this however.

I was taught that the top plate angle is more analogous to the set of a saw than any sort of angle that will affect edge durability. So you're affectively only reducing the set (loose analogy, not exactly I'm sure).
If you think about the cutter tooth as a plane blade, the top plate angle would be similar to skewing a plane during planing. It is independent of the iron bevel angle (sharpening angle).
Not that, in the end, that really matters or has any bearing on your brush situation :)

[Brett Robson]

I think this might just be the ticket! Forget the chain saw! :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJS1ImtGVCw

[Rich Riddle]

I think this might just be the ticket! Forget the chain saw! :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJS1ImtGVCw

If it wasn't for the steep terrain and no access for large tools, that would work great. I owe a great deal of gratitude to whoever recommended heavy duty brush cutters. The Husqvarna cut the work to twenty percent the time.

[Tom M King]

I'm glad it worked out. I was a little worried about it.