How do I cut this?

[Mike OMelia]

I have a new shower system, diverter and temperature control to install. How do I cut the marked holes?

Just want to be sure before I start.

Thanks!

Mike

[Michael W. Clark]

Do you have to replace the rough-in valve? On some, the "guts" can be replaced from the front. Add the new trim kit (expensive part) and caulk around.

Mike

[Mike OMelia]

Sadly, yes. Company that made the original went out of business and I'm done nursing this thing along. Already bought everything

[Mike OMelia]

I need some kind of hole saw for the top. Was wondering if I could use my angle grinder with the tile blade for the bottom. I have one of those HF "Fein-like" tools as well, but looks almost impossible. For the hole saw, if one exists for tile, I'm gonna tack in a 2x4 between the braces on the other side of the wall (I have easy access, already opened up)

[Keith Weber]

In this case, diamonds are actually a MAN'S best friend. Diamond wheel in an angle grinder for the square one. You could also buy a diamond hole saw to cut your round hole (I'm guessing -- I've never actually used one of those.) Hole saws in wood will jump all over the place without an arbor with a center drill bit to guide it. I'm not sure if a diamond hole saw would bounce around without one or not. If it did, I would cut an appropriately sized round hole in a piece of 3/4" ply (about a foot square) and then either duct tape or double-side tape it to the tile to act as a guide for the diamond hole saw.

[Bill McNiel]

Dremel with an appropriate cutting wheel does fine but takes a couple of minutes.

[Michael W. Clark]

If you have access from the back, try to remove it from the back. Attach the new hardware and rough in valve to a 2x4 and toe screw it to the studs. You may have to pre-plumb some of it due to access.

A diamond blade on a 4-1/2" angle grinder will cut the tile or nibble the opening away. Much easier if you can get the old rough in valve out of the way.

[Mike OMelia]

Looks like my post came between all of yours. Yes, I have access to back and will remove fixtures first. I already cut the drywall to see what I'm dealing with. What do you think about my scanning a 2x4 for the hole saw to guid on? Dremel? Really?

[Brian Tax]

I have used a tile blade in a Jig saw.

[Mike OMelia]

They make tile blades for a jigsaw?

[Jim Andrew]

I have used a tile blade in a jig saw also, it looks like abrasive glued to a jig saw blade with no teeth. Works best if you have one of the jig saws where you can "steer" the blade.

[Michael W. Clark]

Do you have any pictures of the new valve and trim kit? The one I just did in our basement would fit the tile openings you have.

[Mike OMelia]

I could provide pics if needed. The round part of the bottom valve with all parts will fit through the existing hole. But it has this plastic frame that defines that square. The trim plate screws into it. Not sure if depth issues allow that plate to just butt up to dry wall. I'll check. The top hole def has to be enlarged

[Peter Quinn]

If the fixtures are out I'd use a 4" diamond wheel in a mini grinder for the bottom hole and a tile bit in a roto zip for the top circle, in fact I did in my own shower. I think it's a 1/8" carbide bit? Makes circles very well in tile.

[Mike OMelia]

It will be a LOT easier to say when the old parts are out. I'll post some pics tomorrow

[Mike OMelia]

If the fixtures are out I'd use a 4" diamond wheel in a mini grinder for the bottom hole and a tile bit in a roto zip for the top circle, in fact I did in my own shower. I think it's a 1/8" carbide bit? Makes circles very well in tile.

I don't have a roto zip (I think, I might, not sure, seems I picked one up at a garage sale), but it sounds like a dremel would sub ?

[Jason White]

Drill a series of small holes all the way around with a masonry bit and chisel it out with a cold chisel.

[Rick Potter]

Like Peter says, use a RotoZip with a tile bit. A Dremel might do it, or rent a RotoZip.

I cut some 50 year old ceramic tile this way. It's quite easy, just don't force it.

Rick P

[phil harold]

Drill a series of small holes all the way around with a masonry bit and chisel it out with a cold chisel.
this method is old school
but works fantastic
and makes very little dust

[Jim Matthews]

Do you have access to more of the same tile?

If there's a fracture, or failure of one of the tiles
you could be backed into a much bigger corner.

If you have replacement tiles, take out the ones that
have the openings cut in them, entirely.

That way you could fit the tiles to the fixture somewhere that's more stable.

DAMHIKT

[Pat Barry]

diamond blade in a dremel tool is what I used. Got the blade and arbor at HD. Used it to cut 3 lneal feet of very hard floor tile. Wore down my battery on the dremel tool 6 times but got the job done. The wheel is only about an inch and a quarter diameter so its very easy to control and be precise.

[Alan Gan]

I have one of these and it is perfect for projects like this, a little pricey for a one time use though, maybe rent one from Home Depot??? http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Cut-Out-Tool-DW660/100634645

[Bill McNiel]

Alan,
that's pretty much a roto-zip. with a tile bit it will do the job.

[Mike OMelia]

OK, I do not have a hole saw (well, I have a battery operated Ryobi, ain't doing that). I have several Bosch Colt routers. Do they make bits for that (to cut tile)? Is this wise?

Mike

I could do the drill and chisel, but I worry that when chiseling, I might crack something.

[Mike OMelia]

What would some of u knowledgable guys say u would charge to do this install. I'll be doing all of the Sheetrock repair. I'm curious at what point it's not worth it for me to do (assuming I buy a roto zip and bits)

[ray hampton]

If the hole are on the EDGE of the tile , a set of pliers [made for stain glass or
tile ] can be use to enlarge the hole

[Mike OMelia]

Get this. A knowledgable guy at Lowes talked me off the ledge. I bought a dry diamond blade (no serration) for my die grinder, a 1" diamond hole saw for the drill, one tile cutting bit (roto zip) for the drill, and a new masonry bit (for the handheld shower bar). $40.

Would not mind owning a roto zip, but it would not get much use as my dremel (guitar work) gets plenty of use.

Mike

[Mike OMelia]

Gonna use the diamond blade to cut the square hole, the tile bit to enlarge the top hole, and the hole saw for the handheld shower