Choice of Countertop Connectors for FrankenBench

[Bruce Finstead]

My son-in-law has enlisted my help in making a FrankenBench for his garage. From Craig's List he has purchased an old 10 foot long kitchen cabinet which will require reinforcing. For the top he has purchased 2 7 foot x 4 foot x 1 1/2 inch laminated boards. The boards will need to be cut down, then joined end to end to form the top. Has anyone experience with specific connectors to accomplish this joinery? I have seen several connectors advertised by different manufacturers, but have found no comments on line that would help me to choose between them. Would a spline or Dominos be advised? I anticipate using a yellow glue as well. I would appreciate any help anyone could offer. Many Thanks!

[Chris Padilla]

So "end to end" implies end-grain to end-grain if I follow you. I would definitely want some kind of reinforcement for such a joint and your suggestions sound fine to me however I'm wondering how you intend to clamp such a long top. You might consider pocket screws on the bottom of the bench to pull that joint together and hold it while your glue dries. Another approach is pipe clamps. You can certainly get pipe long enough for the job.

[Megan Fitzpatrick]

I've been eyeing the "quick adjust countertop connectors" at Lee Valley for my wee kitchen project -- less than $5 (and free shipping right now). That might work for your needs.

[Rick Potter]

How about a spline joint router bit, if I read this correctly. Edit: Never mind, I did not catch that these were slabs.

Rick P

[Peter Quinn]

I've used a few methods and bolts. The tite joint bolts, these are the ones with the ring at each end and a ball with holes at one end, they can be put in with just a drill and a few carefully placed holes, they are very effective but unpleasant to tighten. The little balls only move 1/16 of a turn before you have to reposition your tightener...which would be a 16 penny finish nail, or a nail set, or whatever other improvised method you concoct. They work better on 3/4" tops, as the tops get thicker tightening gets worse, and you are generally doing this in place on your back. Perhaps you can do it bottoms up and then flip with a straight run? Not usually possible with an L where these are generally used. They newer types like mkfeeleys or sure drive zip bolts have a gear that allows you to tighten from below easily, no silly little poker turning a small ball fractionally to sneak up on tight, but they all require routing a channel and a clearance spot for the ends. If you can route to a template it's no problem. The fast cap bolts are tool less, very quick, but again you have to route a place for them to fit. Bed bolts might work too, should be possible with just a drill and chisel, you need a square shoulder on the mating side for those.


I generally use at least biscuits but more often splines for alignment, usually 1/4" plywood in 1/2" deep grooves, and I stop the grooves so the front edge doesn't show the splines. Easy to forget that when you fire up the router and start going..

a final,option would be to half lap the two slabs then glue and blind screw the laps together, could be accomplished with a router and a straight edge.

[Jim Matthews]

a final,option would be to half lap the two slabs then glue and blind screw the laps together, could be accomplished with a router and a straight edge.

+ 1 on the half lap or, scarf joint.

Half laps offer lots of glue surface, but the core material determines the bond quality.
If it's particle board, or something friable - the joint will have no mechanical strength from wood grain.

I suggest a Half Lap (which can be done with a circular saw and chisel to clean out the rabbet),
some large pipe clamps, and a plywood gusset underneath - glued and screwed to the bottom
overlapping the "seam" by several inches.

On Frankenbench, is there a cross member supporting the joint?
It's the obvious point of failure in such an assembly.

There's a low-tech pictorial in the link below, I recommend a hybrid of the second and third examples illustrated.
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglue/plyshophtm/scarfjig2.htm

I do NOT recommend the position suggested for the circular saw.
Gravity will work against you, with the held at the lowest point.