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Vince Shriver
03-21-2014, 12:26 PM
Just picked up an old used table saw (Delta Model 50). Among the issues I need to address is the table itself. Over the years apparently it's been used as a workbench and the cast iron top/wings are discolored with a build-up of various stains, varnishes and who knows what. I've been considering Naval Jelly - CLR - wire wheel - sand paper. Suggestions would be much appreciated

Jason King
03-21-2014, 12:43 PM
A picture would help.

Generally speaking, I'd start with a razor blade, and scrape as much as possible off of the top. That should get 90% of it. Depending on how it cleaned up, I might go to an anti rust product like "evaporust", or I might go straight to a random orbit sander with some 3 in 1 oil as a lubricant. Start with lower grits and work your way up.

Ted Friesen
03-21-2014, 12:43 PM
I've used hook and loop "Scotch Brite" pads on a random orbital sander with WD40 as a lubricant. Do it annually on table saw, band saw and jointer surfaces.

Good luck.

Ted

Lee Schierer
03-21-2014, 12:52 PM
I've used hook and loop "Scotch Brite" pads on a random orbital sander with WD40 as a lubricant. Do it annually on table saw, band saw and jointer surfaces.

Good luck.

Ted

You can also use a pad sander, but be prepared because it will be quite a mess from the liquid and rust flying off the pad.

Dave Cullen
03-21-2014, 1:39 PM
I'd probably use a putty knife to scrape anything like paint that has any thickness, then lacquer thinner for anything solvent will get, and a wire wheel as last resort.

Myk Rian
03-21-2014, 2:11 PM
I use a 1" wood chisel with a lubricant to scrape CI tables. I prefer the patina, and seeing the grain.

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glenn bradley
03-21-2014, 5:19 PM
I'm in the "scrape first" camp. cast iron is softer than you think and power sanding can leave you with a nice looking, but wavey, work surface. Not much use on a tablesaw which relies on flat even reference surfaces for accuracy and safety. If the stains are really in there I would worry more about making the top usable rather than attractive. One of the saws I owned had a finish can ring that would never have come out but, the surface that was stained was smooth and well waxed.

Chris Padilla
03-21-2014, 6:07 PM
Yep...scrape it first. Feel all the high spots from the various goop on it and use a old sharp chisel or putty knife and go to town with some elbow grease.

Once you've scraped it as much as you feel like, then you can move to some very mild abrasives such as scotch brite pads and a lube of whatever is handy and continue with the elbow grease. I'd avoid any power/electricity myself. You just want a smooth surface...not necessarily one you can enjoy your good looks in. :)

Jason White
03-21-2014, 11:59 PM
Ditto on the Scotch Brite pad and WD-40. You can also use mineral spirits.


I've used hook and loop "Scotch Brite" pads on a random orbital sander with WD40 as a lubricant. Do it annually on table saw, band saw and jointer surfaces.

Good luck.

Ted

Sam Puhalovich
03-22-2014, 6:23 AM
+1 on everything that Glenn Bradley ... and some of the others have said about NOT using anything abrasive.
Do everything that Glenn says (been there, done that) ... but ... before you put the wax on ... get a can of Barkeepers Friend.
Follow the directions for removing the stains.

glenn bradley
03-22-2014, 9:08 AM
+1 on everything that Glenn Bradley ... and some of the others have said about NOT using anything abrasive.
Do everything that Glenn says (been there, done that) ... but ... before you put the wax on ... get a can of Barkeepers Friend.
Follow the directions for removing the stains.

Thanks for remembering the 'Barkeeper's Friend' Sam. I have a can for just such occasions and totally forgot about it :o.